Room42

So I got the wideband in a couple of days ago and its working. Did some tuning with the hand controller and was fairly happy. Today I got the datalogit and chucked it in. Went for a couple of runs and noticed that the afr on the pfc and the one shown on the wideband gauge isn't the same number. So my question is...Do ya fix this with the watertemp correction or is there a properer way to do it?

After I installed an aftermarket ecu and ran 14psi on the standard turbo the r34 sidemount would last about 3 0-80 floor its before it was too hot to touch. Then it turns into an interheater I got a frountmount to my door for $220 and a pipe kit for $240. The worst heat I have felt is, the in tank gets a little warm, the core barely gets warm and the out tank stays cold. So for $420 on top of your sidemount upgrade you could have something that actually works well. Oh and fitting was a couple of hours cutting and welding in the shed.

R and R is where the ecu sees too much flow from the afm and changes the timing and the fuel mix the keep the engine "hunky dory". Turn the boost up to about 13 or 14 psi and the stock ecu wont like it and will give you a scare . But smartarseness aside I have tried what I said earlier. The turbo didn't break and the car went like a cut snake. But still, don't try it tho...I have run 14 to 15 psi for the last few months and its fine so far. I don't flog it incessantly and don't let it get very hot from extended wot. To be safe stick with what the other guys have said..10 to 12 psi. Don't waste your time upping the boost over 10 psi till you get an aftermarket ecu tho. It will r and r and feel like crap to drive with poor economy Oh and don't cut the mesh out of your afm...It helps with air turbulence

What Dale FZ1 said. The car went in fine and came out rooted. They should fix it for you.

Q2. take off the wastgate actuator hose and see for yourself. about 20 to 22 psi. but it wont last long like that

It was a bit hard to understand that last post...Have you let the ecu know how to run the injectors? Fuel rail/lines and reg connected properly?

The narrow band is sitting in the centre console atm. It kept the car from blowing up I spose. I bought an Innovate wideband controller and sensor the other day with 2 outputs to run the gauge and keep the pfc happy. Now I have the afr at 11.8 to 12 on boost the car is going heaps harder. I spose I have some questions about stuff but seeing as I haven't even searched anywhere I didn't really want to ask them just yet. If I cant work it out for myself then I'll give ya's a shout

I put some 900cc @ 3 bar injectors in my ecr33. 950cc @ 3.5bar and 990cc @ 4 bar. 58ms latency.Set the pfc to 41% and 0.06ms. Now only shows 40 percent duty cycle flat out. Was over 90 before with the stockers. Idles fine, drives good etc. Still sorting out the cold start but generally happy they work so well. Using about 0.8 to 1 percent duty at idle. Spent more time looking for the rail spacers that fell out and got stuck on various things under the bonnet than actually putting the injectors in. Seems like overkill but... it wont be when the 25/30 is built. However that's another story

say what you like but... I have personally seen water in heat exchanging systems run hot and boil. Coolant doesn't do that. Lol whatever gets you off tho. I guess we are all qualified mechanics here aye?!

Mate it sounds to me like you are mostly on top of it so based on what you wrote I'll just say a few things. Never use water in your cooling system. It will always boil. Only use one type of coolant in your system. Using 2 types can cause a reaction with the alloys and corrode stuff quicker. A simple one but check that your thermostat is in the right way. Check that you radiator hose isn't getting sucked shut when you floor it. It happens. You said that you cant open your bleed bolt. Get it sorted, also check the little hoses around it etc for blockages. A radiator cap with a couple of psi more will suppress boiling however isn't usually needed. Check your viscous coupling in your fan. It should have a little resistance when you try to turn it. If there is a little oil leak on it then get it replaced. It has already been said but check that you aren't running too lean for your application. Anyway just a few ideas to help you on your way.

Agreed. Its on the safe side for getting me to work but not for flogging the crap out of it. Odd that so much fuel came off the map tho.

Read up on what rich and lean means mate. 14.7 is the middle, a lower number is rich and a higher number is lean. I did mention in the first post the gauge read rich lol.

Not utterly useless but fairly useless. Obviously you arent going to run full load at stoich. Like I said it will let you know if rich or lean which generally is only usefull initially. After that its a bit like tuning a carby lol. Add more fuel till it loses power. There are stacks of variables to know when tuning a engine which I wont go into now. My point regarding the narrowband in this thread is that even after I pulled 30 of the entire inj map it still didn't run technically lean. You blokes know what I'm on about by now. That is heaps of fuel to take out. Shitloads in fact. It is definitely too lean now to give a hiding to for extended periods but it will get me to work till the datalogit and wideband arrive later this week or early next week.Try $30 a day for fuel and only doing about 40 or 50 k's. Ouch

You cant tell how rich but you can tell if its either side of 14.7.

I had the injectors at 85 percent before and now they are at 75 percent. The idea that the previous fuel pump was lazy is good. It would explain random knocks on wot after holding it flat for a while. I'll do some more tuning and test some bits and see where it ends up.

I just put a walbro gss341 fuel pump in my car. The car started using stacks of fuel. I pulled 30!!! units of fuel from the power fc and it ran better. No extra knock. Still reads rich on acceleration on the narrow band. Sounds to me like a worn fuel reg. Any ideas?

Maybe you got the afm wrong setting by accident. I did that once. The pfc changes the setting just by going to the afm part and going down and then going back out. Try going to the afm screen and go up to the standard r33 and then go back.

If the throttle is closed at revs this is what happens... open bov means the turbo will gently slow down. Closed bov means the turbo will rapidly slow down... there is more to it but this is the basic scenario

Example: I run 17 degrees timing at full load at 14 psi on a stock turbo. Makes about 20 knock or less. 18 degrees makes about 35-40 knock and 19 makes over 60. The other week I completely unscrewed my boost bleed valve hose and saw about 22 psi that tailed off. The knock went up to 135. I took off 4 degrees timing and the knock was back to 35. 0 to 100kph burnouts were had by all...Actually only me and only 2 of them. Then I turned the boost down before the turbo shit itself. Some useless/useful info there.

If it was tuned with a leak then it would probably be running more boost now. If you know how pull some timing off the map temporarily until it doesn't knock then adjust the ign map accordingly. ONLY IF YOU KNOW HOW!!! The fuel map may need a minor touch up as well. Unless you are very good at tuning take it back to your tuner and get it fixed. Tell him/her you fixed the leak and they should be able to sort it for you quick as. Don't flog your car with that much knock. Its not good for it. Make sure you run 98 premium fuel ALWAYS. I only see 20 knock with united98 and 45 with bp98....lastly I gotta say again don't touch it unless you know what your doing. You may end up cracking or bending something. Read http://www.paulr33.c...powerfc-faq.htm

but to answer your question entirely, I haven't measured it

Mate the easy way out is to put thread sealant (white crap) on the bolts and fit it up. We use the same crap at work for fitting plugs into big steel and copper intercoolers (called aftercoolers but whatever) and they are good to 50 psi. Sounds like someone put bolts into your cooler that were too long and wrecked it. Get it fixed if its free but other than that don't stress

2 psi less pressure drop than the r34 smic that was on there. I got 2 psi more on the gauge after I fitted it. A mate has the same one on his 45 psi 600hp plus sr20 drag car

Hi, How many people out the have broken the exhaust wheel on their stock r33 turbo from turning the boost up? Of course I have read this and that like most of us, but I want replies from people who have actually wrecked their turbo from too much boost. I have run mine at 14 psi for a couple of months now and it seems fine. And today just for a look I pulled a couple of degrees of the ign map, disconnected the wastegate hose and let it do its thing. I saw 20 psi under 4500 and of course it dropped off after that to about 16psi. How long have I got do ya reckon before she blows? Btw its back down to 13.5 psi now. Nathan

Hi Guys, My name is Nathan and I'm a 30 yo bloke living in Perth with my missus. I thought I'd drop a few lines to introduce myself so here goes. Most of the time I'm at work making radiators for the mining industry. When I have free time I'm only really doing a few other things. They are; playing guitar and writing songs, playing with our new crazy cat, working on the Skyline, watching dvd's with the missus and playing gt5. Hey its one way I can drive after a few beers . So a bit about the car, It has; a manual box, a foam pod filter, catback Kakemoto exhaust, hd organic clutch, hicas lock bar, 600x300x100 bar and plate intercooler 3 inch outlets with 2.5 inch piping, power fc (tuned by me with less than 20 knock), bleed valve for boost control(14psi) and a few aftermarket gauges (narrow afr, boost, digital tacho/shiftlight). Planned mods for now are, plugs that cost more than $4 each, fc datalogit, wideband afr sensor and gauge, afm, injectors, fuel pump, mags for more grip, bigger dump pipe and a hypergear turbo. After a bunch more saving it will get a fully forged bottom end either rb25 stuff or rb30 hybrid, head work including cams etc and a big dirty ball tearing turbo with manifold to suit. I'm going to keep the stock intake manifold cos it is a street car and obviously once things start getting scary the exhaust will be modded as necessary. Some suspension and a brake upgrade will fit in there somewhere too. So that's about it. Here's a link to my car. http://www.youtube.c...h?v=zvhEyMZNIs8