Room42

Gettin there, gettin there. Waiting for bits.

Geez calm down everyone. I'm going to do this no matter what. I couldn't give two f**ks if its better or worse than anything else. Its just something to do that cost bugger all. Refer to the initial question.Tha'ts all I was thinking about. I have researched out the arse. I know that other setups work better. I don't care either. IVF works better than sex so are you all going to give up rooting? I thought not.

Ok bud. You're on. But since you wont pay up when you lose so you can just look like a cock instead. I'll keep ya posted lol

Believe me I had that idea already. Intake and exhaust piping isn't that much more difficult to knock up so to speak. It would be a tight fit tho. I haven't researched 3 either, ie :which turbos to use. I'll stick with 2 for now. I've sussed it all out and it should work pretty good.

Lol of course I have "done my homework" and if I wanted to (and kept the missus happy) I could go out and buy whatever setup i chose tomorrow, paid in cash. I've already posted how much this is going to cost. I don't pay a mechanic or a welder/fabricator to work on it as I have extensive experience in these industries. The flanges are in the mail as I type and should arrive this week. It will be built as soon as all the parts arrive. As most are aware the r33 s2 turbo spools up real early. Maybe some have forgotten what a stock turbo feels like on a 25. On a 30 it will be way to small. Hence 2 turbo's. I just went for a drive to see how early the single spools up. 4th gear from about 40 kph. 12 psi at 2200. 14.5psi at 2500 rpm. I could probably get it to spool 100 rpm earlier with a change in the tune but it might be a bit hot. Also that is with only a bleed valve and a spring on the outside of the actuator that holds 9.5 psi. Those pressures are at the manifold btw. I tried holding the brake and it went to 14.5 at 2300. Have a look here. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYW_7gltGVo Its a bit wonky but if you pause it you can see it. If you see my other one its a bit old.

fuel pump on the way out?

Whatever the engine/ turbo kit will do. I just pulled the head of the 30 and the bores are 86.05mm. I'm about to sus out the piston/bore tolerance and if its ok then its going to stay the way it is (stock). If it needs machining then forged pistons are going in. Even if it stays stock (or forged pistons) its getting a 3.4 stroker kit next year on the tenth of August (my birthday!). So the power level will vary depending on what work gets done to the engine for now. Either way it only has to last a year so I'll turn it up as much as reliably possible. EDIT: I'm only running an intank walbro 341 for now so that may need replacing with something better as well.

A bigger single would be the easy way out as far as install goes. I guess I'm doing it cos its cheap and fairly easy and a bit unique. Plus it would give me something to do that I'm interested in. I'm curious to see how it would go. If it turns out crap then a 6boost manifold and a gt3582r will end up on the 2530.

As far as the original question goes I was kind of thinking about 10 psi. The afm is at almost 4.4v now with 14 psi on (obviously) one stock turbo.

I am aware of the risk involved with ceramic turbos but as they wouldn't be seeing a high boost level with 2 of them this wont be an issue. My current turbo has been seeing 14-16 psi at least twice a day if not 20 times a day for 6 months and it's fine. That argument aside, there are some good reasons that I am doing this turbo setup. The cost of doing this is bugger all. Another stock turbo with lines is $150. A head flange and 2 t3 flanges cost me $100 from ebay. I'm getting all the pipe for the manifold and exhaust from work for free. I currently have one hks split dump that I've been using for a while now. I need another split dump or I could use the stock ones. The exhaust and manifold fabrication will cost nothing more than my good company and some drinks at a mates house. The water and oil line setup is another negligible cost. Intake piping is what it is. Silicone bends aren't that cheap but we all know what they are worth. Tuning is up to me. I'm going to tune the turbo setup on the current rb25det in the car and then swap it afterwards to the bigger motor. So it all comes in at less than $500. It will be fine aye. It will be neat and wont blow up Also as far as effort goes its not a lot in my book. As the cost is so low that means less wages spent. To get a "proper" setup I would be looking at a minimum of $3500. That's more work in the end. It might sound crazy and risky to some but to me the work involved is easy and the cost is small. It might be a bit laggy? I guess we'll see. It will end up on the dyno after I have done most of the tuning so we'll see then. That's a couple of months off tho, busy with work and home and engine building as most of us are. At the end of the day if it all turns to shit all I would have lost is a small amount of money and a weekend or 2. Have faith peoples. I'm not some chinese whispering 20 year old.

I am in the process of building an rb2530 with 2 stock r33 s2 turbo's on a custom manifold. How much boost would each turbo run before the z32 afm hit 5.2? I'm going to suck through one afm. They will be running off 3 cylinders each.

When I say it changed the tune on mine the wot afr went from 11.8 ish to about 13 to 1.

Just check it but like Paul said don't pay for a tune from scratch. It took me and the missus about 20 min of driving to fix mine.

I chucked on a hks split dump and 3 inch front pipe a couple off weeks ago and it changed my tune significantly. The car was happy to have a tiny bit more timing, was leaner in the first 5 load cells, was a lot richer in the midrange and leaned out up top. Needless to say I fixed it. I'm tuning my power fc with a wideband and datalogit btw. The boost level didn't change after the pipe swap.

With a compression test you should have the throttle completely open and crank it till it reaches its highest reading. That will happen pretty quickly but don't worry about counting the engine turns. Make sure all of the other plugs are out so it turns freely. Also make sure that you don't wash your bores. Stop the fuel getting in the cylinders.

P,S I'm strongly leaning toward build issues and not the tune.

Mate without giving you shit about it I would say read a stack of books about professional engine building and (almost) memorize them and thoroughly understand them. Hey at least it ran right?! So you have a basic foundation of knowledge there. Don't stop learning now, we learn from our own, and others mistakes. It takes years to gain the skills to work on cars properly. I'm 30 and pulled my first stromberg carby apart when I was ten. I'm still learning. I would say, pay to get it built next time and then you'll have the car/engine you that will last too. In the mean time get reading those text books or get a mechanic apprenticeship.

Spotted, white completely stock looking gtst in my driveway. Could have sworn I heard a faint noise coming from outside....boooooost meeee!!! But the road is wet so no joy.

I'm not a professional tuner, however I can tune my car the way I want it to run ie: economy off boost and power on boost or if I choose (but I don't) to shoot flames on every downshift. It "should" be a given that someone who tunes cars all day long wouldn't make a mistake like that. I know I wouldn't and I only tune mine and a couple of mates cars. No det here.

Tell me which tuner in their right mind would pay for someones engine if it broke on the dyno? Almost anyone can slap a motor together and have it last for a couple of runs/weeks. You gotta know more about engine building than just bolting it together with the right torque settings.

Saw a white 33 gtst on leach hwy at welshpool lights on saturday night with a big lookin wing. Young bloke with his missus (I spose). We waved and grinned. Light turned green and about 2.5 seconds later I saw him in the rear view a fair way back.

Well the car started missing under boost and it turns out that the plug gaps were too big. Almost 1.5 mm. There are 4 prongers per plug so I swapped out for some cheapies at 0.8 mm and hey presto no more miss. There are marks on the coils where they were arcing to the coil mounting brackets. I couldnt be stuffed trying to adjust 24 prongers cos of the way the plug is made it would be a bit of a guess anyway. As far as performance goes there is no difference between the $20 plug and the $4 plug.

commodores are more common than skylines but you wouldn't use one of those unless you had to.

no turbo = no bov. turbo = bov.