Room42

Mate you say there is a big difference between diesel and petrol. Yeah there is a SLIGHT difference. You do realize there is a BIG difference between oil and diesel yer? Sarcasm meant but no offense. How much 'oil' pressure do you reckon you would get running something so thin through your motor? The likelihood of scoring the big end bearings would be very high.The mains might be alright but there is still a very high risk there also. Its not that hard to pull an engine to bits, clean it properly and put it back together. Sure you can take shortcuts and still drive it away. But would you take the risk? So if anyone here can back up their words then do it. Get out your camera and film the diesel, petrol or kero going in the oil filler hole. Start the vehicle and show us the oil pressure gauge. Film the bottom end knock that will ensue. Grow a pair, put up or shutup.

My power fc is doing the same thing in my r33 rb25det. I changed the cranking ms at 50 degrees from 11 to 9ms and at 80 degrees from 10 to 8 ms. It seems to start with less cranking but still not perfect. I noticed that while it was cranking the ignition timing was only at 3 then 6 btdc before it started. I spose there must be a way of changing this?

Have you got yours sorted yet?

Plenty of stuff I haven't tried and never will. And 045how, you were 7 years old when I started working at a truck mechanics.

Coming from a kid that resorts to name calling means about 2 thirds of stuff all. P.s the head flange only got here on Friday.

Its easy to talk shit on the net isn't it. You blokes keep believing that petrol goes in the oil hole.

Nor would I ever. I guess when I went to tafe years ago to do my mechanics apprenticeship, all the stuff they taught me about engine building was a load of crap. And all the blokes I worked with just guessed their way through engine rebuilds. The fact that you would admit you have done this is ridiculous. Next time you assemble an engine use petrol for assembly lube. Geez I'm wasting my words...

This. It will end badly.

Stuff idiots say about skylines... From the forced induction thread, http://www.skylinesa...5-engine-flush/ StevenCJR31 Real Name:steven pratt Posted Today, 08:23 PM drop the oil and run some diesel through it koe Today, 08:22 PM Real Name:Angel Posted Today, 08:58 PM yeah just run some gas or diesel and clean it up real good BUILD IT,TUNE IT AND RACE IT YOUR SELF.THIS IS HOW WE ROCK&ROLL You got to be kidding me

DO NOT run any kind of degreaser through your engine. Not kero or diesel or anything. If the water has diluted and mixed with the oil (milky) then there is a chance that the bottom end bearings are rooted. You should have a look at them and while you are there you can wipe it all down and assemble it all properly with assembly lube. Clean out your oil pump and prime it properly. FFS putting degreaser through an engine then just dumping new oil in it and hoping for the best is stupid. But by all means to the blokes that suggested it, the next time you do an oil change drop 10 litres of diesel through your motor then put the oil in after. See how long it lasts. And yes there could be some rust buildup. To the op, I'm not having a go at you, just make sure you do it properly.

The injectors will need to be identical or it will run rich or lean or not at all.

You will have to run the right injectors for the computer you are using or use an aftermarket computer.

haha f**ken ha. I blew a hole in my radiator of my auto VT commodore the other day cos I revved it to 5500. Anyone got a spare one for me? I'll come get it this arvy. Perth only Or I can just tow my trailer with my R33...

http://www.paulr33.com/powerfc-faq/inj_side-en.htm http://www.paulr33.com/powerfc-faq/inj_top-en.htm

A bit better. Its still kind of hard to judge how deep the chip is. I would hazard a guess and say that you wont fix it by honing. If you can catch it with your fingernail then it probably is too deep to fix without a rebore. Notice how I say "hazard a guess" and probably"? Its difficult to tell from the computer. You will get a free opinion from a machine shop/mechanic and then you'll know where you stand.

I got my 50mm for $650.

I think it will go pretty good. Especially on a 3L. It will come on boost quicker than a honeymooners dick on wedding night Are you tuning it yourself or putting it on the dyno?

I had a chat with Grant about the high flows he does. I didn't end up getting one done as he said it was going to cost $1400. He said they are very similar to TO4E specs and do their best work at 16 psi. $1400 is almost half of a 'proper' external setup so I went with that. Will be good to see some results with it tho. What computer are you using?

It says in the instructions to turn on the power to the wideband and when the light stops flashing to start it. This is to let the heater in the sensor warm up and stop the sensor getting clogged with soot. They say it prolongs sensor life. Everything about the wideband gauge is soldered in. There is no plugging in. Have a look in the wideband thread. I put a clip in there explaining about how it works.

Same. That's what I did. No worries.

Cos I have to let the O2 sensor warm up I tried something different. I let it warm up on accessories and then when its ready I turn the key to on. then start the car halfway through the prime and it starts first time. It must have been losing pressure in the rail cos it primed then didn't get started till the sensor was warm 15 seconds later.

Mine is does it consistently. Could it be because of having 9xxcc injectors? The latency time is not far from stock. 0.58ms Although it does start fine every time when its cold. Could it be coils? Most of the time it starts with a miss for about 2 seconds. There are new properly gapped plugs in it.

Since you are putting larger injectors in you must have an aftermarket computer. It wouldn't hurt to run a better fuel pump but if the car is staying at stock power or so then the stock pump will do the job. But is old and for the sake of a few hundred dollars I would replace it.

Power Fc

Title says it all, almost. My car starts first time immediately when it's cold. When it's hot it cranks for a lot longer. Too long. I have tried adding and removing fuel from the cranking setup. A tuner I spoke to told me to watch what cell it is using when I turn the key and add heaps of fuel there. There is as much fuel as I can add in the first 4 cells of the fuel map and no better. I haven't changed the voltage on the fuel pump yet. Ideas?