Room42

Bloke says to me "Mate check out this new car I got" Its a hyundai excel. He tells me how good it goes. I'm like "Mate my skyline will wop you". He's like "You might get me in top end but I'll get off the line quicker". I'm like "No you wont". I pop his bonnet and I'm like" So where is the turbo cos that's the only way this thing will be quicker than my skyline? He's like "No turbo". There was a pod filter. Thats it. There was a turbo timer in the car but no turbo to cool off. He refused to come for a drive with me after I offered to show him the light. What can you do aye?

Mate even with your head you can check that your self. I don't know the head straightness specs or the surface ra offhand but they will be available somewhere. The surface finish isn't as important with a stock gasket as they take up the imperfections in the head. Just run a straight edge across it and use a feeler gauge to check it. Save yourself 500 to 700 bucks and clean it yourself and check everything yourself. Even as far as checking the valve seats and possibly using some grinding paste on them if necessary is an easy task. There are tools out there for removing the valve springs and checking valve spring tension. Get a baby bench grinder with a wire wheel to clean up the valves. You could get away with spending less than $300 on tools and parts to freshen up the head and refit it to the engine. I paid for a head to be reco'd once and now I would never do it. Only thing I'd pay for would be the surface grind if it needed it. Generally they don't, sometimes they do.

Fair enough then. Its not that you are unwanted or useless but some of those comments were. Clearly we are here to support each other in our skylinelyness and should remain so. No hard feelings.

Isn't it. This is what happens when I have too much time off work.

Watch out for swearing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e3vpwuifxoQ

To show how its adjusted Cos I like making youtube clips to explain stuff Cos I'm bored I have no idea

Oh ok I get you now. The tacho is adjustable in 100 rpm increments. I can feel another youtube clip coming on. I think mine is set to 6800 or 6900. Most of the time I actually shift at 6500 or 6600 cos it feels better there. i only really rev it to 7000 or so if I need the speed from that particular gear.

Sometimes rebuilding or even inspecting the bottom end isn't an option. Sometimes (when broke or toolless) I have just cleaned what I could from the rocker cover and valvetrain assy with a rag. Then after fixing the head gasket I have put cheap oil in. Then having gone for a drive, it is essentially flushing the oil/water emulsion out with cheap oil. Do this once or twice before putting your good oil in. Cheap oil is only about ten dollars for 4 litres. This may not clean out the hydraulic lifters tho as the holes in them are pretty small. Mate it all comes down to what you can afford and what tools are at your disposal. If you can, pull it down and clean it out and reassemble. If you cant then an oil flush may be a suitable option for you. As previously mentioned there is a good chance that the bottom end copped it from the watered down oil. If you can hear it knocking after new oil is in then you are up the creek so to speak. If there is no knock then don't worry about it. Yes your engine will have lost some life but if its not knocking and there is decent oil pressure then you are home safe. Dont be too concerned about lifter noise as it will usually disappear after a time.

Mate I reckon vl's are great. You put any vl with the same power and grip as any skyline and which one comes first? vl every time. But the interior of the vl lets it down. That's my opinion. On the subject of setting the shift light, it is controlled by the button in the centre of the tacho. You press it and it will go up or hold it and then press it and it will go down. It is just like any aftermarket tacho. They are a standalone unit. I was just using the handcontroller for comparisons sake before.

Man I was wondering about that. So you're saying if I swap the multifit lenso 19's on my commodore to my skyrine it will go quicker? But then the commodore will have to get a set of stockies and will look even more like shit. What would a stock ride height r33 look like with 19's anyway. The entire wheel is bigger. It might turn it into a 4x4. That would mean I can swap the gts25t sticker to a gtr badge hey!

Yeah I'd say definitely more accurate because it is updating the rpm a lot quicker than the powerfc. The other tacho seems to change about 3 to 5 time for the powerfc's one time. Just gotta pause and play it real quick.

Ok. So it seems that it is more accurate than the hand controller as it appears to react quicker. Most of the time it is within 50rpm when stable. Just pause it constantly through the clip to compare them. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZugGGVrJW9M

Gimme a sec and I'll have a check against my hand controller.

I'm using the power fc at the moment. It ran fine on the stock one before I swapped computers and works fine on this one too. I've had the car for about 7 months and no dramas.

Something like this one? Only thing is that it was in the car when I got it and I dont know what brand it is. But it works fine. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zvhEyMZNIs8

Posted 19 August 2011 - 01:38 AM BY 045HOW had a dickhead i know say to me tonight that V35 skylines have a 3.6 litre inline 6. i said wanna bet. he said yeah 20 bucks. wham bam you know what happened. didnt pay up. told him someone is gonna punch him out some day and left it at that cause i didnt realllly care. Mate you are all talk. Leave the car advice for blokes who know what they are on about. SAU is for fostering good will and a healthy respect between members and the import scene. You are doing the opposite of this. I think you need to listen to your own advice pal.

There is a difference between learning to swim and learning about cars. My cat is a good swimmer.

. . .and you were 5 years old when i started driving Nathan(and still learning new things), doesnt necessarily mean im a better driver than you or anybody else who is younger than me on this forum, seeing as we are both in Perth i would be more than happy to show you how i flush motor oil out with diesel and how it has no ill effects on the motor. . .go on i dare ya! Ok no worries mate. I've pm'd you my number. I'm free all day at the moment. Come over for a beer and a chat. I got some car fixing to do today so you can even help with that if you are keen.

Maybe its 200kw at the trailer.

Mmmm kebabs. I'm going to head up to Riverton shops at lunch time and get one from Ispa Kebabs. Garlic sauce and tabouleh uley...

Post a youtube clip for us

I tried changing injector lag time, cranking ms again, ignition dwell, timing in the cranking cell, fuel in the cranking cell. None of it had a huge difference really. I watched a chart of the injector duty cycle whilst turning the key to start it and it basically went on a gentle slope till it started. Even when adding lots of fuel to the cranking ms all it did was a slope then a spike before settling on 1% duty cycle at idle. Changing the dwell a little bit just made it start with less of a rev and less misfiring. My car used to crank for 3 seconds or so when it was at its worst and now it starts a lot quicker. It would make sense that the injectors would be doing what they are told immediately rather than there being a slope in the duty cycle chart....My lag time was advertised as 0.058. I have it at 0.08 now and it idled richer and started better. I wonder if a new battery is in order tho? I have noticed rather high voltages being shown. That is usually a sign of a stuffed battery.

If he hasn't swapped the injectors over then that would be about right. Mine maxed out around there. I haven't personally used a gcg highflow but if the stock turbo can make around 200rwkw at 14psi then a high flow will put out a lot more. Here is a link to the same person I bought my injectors from. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6-660cc-Fuel-injectors-Nissan-Skyline-RB25DET-300zx-TT-/120768070761?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c1e568469 I spoke to them very recently and they have a 900cc set there that work fine but have cosmetic damage only. They mentioned they would be discounted because of this. I payed around $500 for my 900cc's so you would expect to pay less. All these injectors have been used but are refurbished. Get a new afm from any auto store that we all go to on the weekend. Or a second hand one from the classifieds here. Make sure you get a plug for the afm too. In my opinion there is a big difference between a mechanic and a tuner.

From the first post it sounds like you could have fitted the fuel lines the wrong way around under the hood. I think everyone has done this at one time or another.But if the pump is out the car and no priming then this isn't the case

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=FB5VGM_ZZ_c