Room42

I must have been imagining it then. Maybe there was a small change in the fuel map when I swapped the afm settings over in the pfc. Or maybe the lower light load res made it smoother. I have no idea.

Years ago I had a Gemini that had a block filter thingy coming from the rocker cover to the air filter. I floored it at the lights and as the revs got up in second or 3rd (cant remember now, was a long time ago) the dipstick popped out and poured out all over the engine bay and the exhaust. Clouds of smoke everywhere and the guy I was dragging was grinning his head off.

I just screwed mine into the dump with the copper washer that came with it.

One degree doesn't sound like much but it raises my knock level significantly. I haven't checked lately but it used to raise it about 30 points on my pfc. I hear ya tho. I'm only using the knock sensors on the motor for monitoring knock. They do pick up other sounds for sure but always pick up knock in my car. If you let your car get very hot and heat soaked then you will need to let it cool down or it will knock as you saw. I haven't had my car in summer yet (I only bought it about 6 months ago) but I will be adjusting the tune for the warmer months. I gave it a couple of speed runs once and it got to 85 degrees. It normally sits on 70 and doesn't budge around town. Setting and forgetting is the last thing I would do unless I pulled timing and added fuel. But then it would be slow

Simply, no. Adjust the focus on your camera and take a pic of the chip. All of the pics are out of focus on the damaged area.

There is no issue. A cold night or more boost will read more air. That's part of the tune. The intake temp will have almost no effect on my tune as I only start tuning when it has completely warmed up. My car is remarkably consistent with its running temp. I will notice lower octane fuel immediately. I always and I mean ALWAYS check my hand controller after any wot usage. I floor it, I check it. If I was to take it onto a track then I would pull a couple of degrees off the whole map and add extra fuel to the whole map to keep the engine temp down. I dont use a dyno to tune as I dont need one. I worked in a dyno shop 11 years ago and know how to tune a car. I dont know all the specifics of every aftermarket ecu but I know mine well enough. I only use a dyno to check load points that would be unsafe to hold on the road. The ecr33 doesn't use an air intake temp sensor. Refer to Pauls pfc faq. Winding stuff down is for people that provide warranties. I dont need an afr margin. That's just a waste of fuel. I agree with you on leaving some ignition safety. Although that safety is only 1 degree. I'm talking from experience here, not repeating anothers words.

This is what you need to look at. http://www.powerenterpriseusa.net/products/fuel/injector/index.htm They are low impedance top feed injectors. After a quick read of the website it seems the injectors are supplied to suit the car model.

I would except there isn't E85 available at the pump in Perth yet. I've read that most rb engine failures occur from lack of oil, excess revs and detonation. Hardly anything about breaking internals from power. The first one, oil, is a bit out of my hands. I can only put the best stuff in and add a little extra at the moment. Later I will sort out an oil cooler. I can definitely control my revs and definitely control the det. I'll tune it right to the edge on bp98 but not so it knocks. But obviously with heaps less timing than E85. The tune is there now up to load 17. I just have to sort out loads 18,19 and 20 on the power fc. I've put a tune there but haven't seen it in action yet.

Good one snozzle I've got about 5 cartons of home brew here. Although the last time I tuned my car when I was drunk it ended up being ridiculously rich. I was changing water temp correction on a cold night. P.s My holden loving mate was driving and it converted him He couldn't get his head around 2.5 litres making the same power as his very worked 5 litres.

How close will I get to your record I wonder? I think my car wont like getting flogged down the strip much. The syncro's are a little worn. Wont stop me from taking for a few runs tho.

420 was the guys guess. The dyno sheet showed 470 rwhp or something at 26 psi. I think my intercooler will be ok for a while. Although it is bar and plate it has 3 inch ends and the core is 600by300by100. The intercooler piping is only 2.5 inch tho. The intake manifold is still stock but will be swapped out for a greddy sooner or later. I have done about 6 hours of solid reading this morning and from what I gather I can push the absolute crap out of my engine (for limited bursts) with the right tune etc. It will be pushed to the limit of whatever parts are currently on the car. That's probably the fuel pump, a walbro 341. Or the stock coil packs.

The z32 has better resolution so may be smoother to drive. And seems to have a less restrictive 'pronger' in it. I noticed the difference in mine when I swapped it over. No extra power but smoother (especially down low) and different exhaust note. Maybe no difference for you at all. But yeah...new coils and a tune and it will surprise you. Or at least meet your expectations.

Well it seems that you know more about the datalogit than I do. Being a bit lazy and since we're both in Perth maybe we can catch up and you can show me some stuff with it. No homo, the missus would disapprove

Its just not tuned properly, that's all. Almost every car on the planet that has a stock ecu will go better with an aftermarket ecu that is tuned right.

I'm pretty sure I got a bung or 2 with the wideband kit. I haven't used the graph function yet. I'll have a sus tomorrow. But... The reason I said it was pretty useless is because the fuel in a cell will be different a lot of the time. Like light load acceleration will using the same cells in high rev deceleration and it will even be affected by acceleration enrichment when you plant it. You end up with 3 different afrs in the same cell as far as the datalogit is concerned. I've seen a max of 21.9:1 and a min of 10.X:1 in the same cell.

http://www.bosch.com.au/content/language1/downloads/02_Tech_Guide_Email_Quality.pdf Check out question 4 in this pdf. Its celsius. I dont know about how often you have to calibrate but mine has been done once and its been a few months now.

It looked like he got off the throttle to me. Could be wrong tho. But yep big turbos have big lag and big power. Little turbos...you get the picture. I'll post a clip when I'm done so we can all see how much lag it has. I'll make a real long clip so we get a very good idea about what it's like. I'll go from idle rpm to see the spool from nothing. I'll spool it in each gear at different rpms and just create as many scenario's as I can that it would be used in. Thanks to my internet provider (unlimited flatout plan) it will all be in hd. I may even burn some rubber, or clutch depending...

Interesting. The bosch site says 1000 degrees. I wonder which one is right? Maybe they use 'shitter' ones with the innovate kit.

If you are going to sell it then the only mod you should do is get a bleed valve and turn the boost up a little. Don't spend a cent more.

On the iac subject, I went for a quick drive to get it to operating temp. It was a lot nicer to drive and shift gears just cruising. When I got back it was idling at 550 rpm. I fixed it with the hand controller and its now at 700 rpm. I cant believe I was too slack to fix it when it was that easy. Haha I earned myself a beer

Would you just run the rocker covers to the can and then back to the manifold? Anyway I just went outside and took the iac valve off, pulled it to bits, noted how many turns the screw was in, cleaned it out with clr clear, dried it with the compressor and put it back in. I put the screw back in a couple of extra turns. The car started with less of a rev and is idling nicely at just under 800 rpm. Easy as

Sounds like your iac valve. (Idle air control) Mine does the same thing but I have been too lazy to fix it as it isn't as bad as yours yet. Lazy I know and I'm going to do it now. If you know nothing about it then here is a link to help you. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110431-diy-aac-valve-cleaning-idle-reset/page__hl__iac+clean If you are going to block the pcv valve (positive crankcase ventilation valve) then you gotta block of the bit on the intake manifold so it doesn't suck in air. It might throw your tune off, I don't know.

My intercooler is exactly the same after a bootfull. If its coming out the other end cold then its not an issue. Maybe a pressure test either side of it is in order. Make sure its not blocked. Unlikely tho. Beer Baron is on the money. It was fine before and not now. There wouldn't be a huge change in the tune before and after so it seem like its time to rip of the new bits and thoroughly sus them out. Put the old bits back on and see if the problem is still there. I wouldn't worry about carbon build up cos that crap takes a hell of a long time to build up enough to get hard and stay there. It usually get vibrated/burnt loose and comes out the back. You can spray atomized water through the throttle body when the car is idling and it will soften it up and break it loose also.

It is a pain getting traction with the stock wheels. I'm thinking semislicks will be the way to go. There is a place in Perth ( http://www.motorplex.com.au/ ) where you can go every wednesday and take your car down the strip. Like Uncle Ben said to Spiderman "With great power comes great responsibility".