Jump to content
SAU Community

Room42

Members
  • Posts

    626
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by Room42

  1. Haha fair call. Good spotting
  2. 045how lol I still have the 2 stock turbos and the t3 flanges arrived yesterday. I still dont have the head flange yet. Seeing as the rb30 in my shed is getting stroked next year I was thinking about keeping the flanges and putting another gt35 on it. We'll see. Jonnohr31 The missus is getting to be a good co-tuner so it should only take a good weekend to get the tune 90 percent. R31nismoid I'll go see the guy this arvy and let him know what I need. Only 3 weeks and 6 days to go. I already told the boss that I'm taking a sicky to put my car together
  3. The exhaust will have to stay the same for now as I have already made the missus mad with my spending. Swapping the cat is on the cards. The exhaust will get replaced next year when the motor gets changed. Ebay lines are crap aye? Where's a better place to get them? I know a guy who works for enzed. I spose he could do it. EDIT The engine internals are going to stay stock for 12 months so it wont be wound up too much.
  4. I bought a genuine garrett gt3582r yesterday, .82 rear, 4 bolt. I also ordered a 6boost manifold and 50mm wastegate which will arrive in 4 weeks from today. My car currently has; Z32 afm, 910cc at 3 bar JECS injectors, walbro 341 fuel pump, power fc, tuning crap, hd clutch, 3 inch front pipe, stock cat, 3 inch kakemoto catback. I have the car really well tuned currently on the stock turbo at 14psi. No knock anywhere and nice afr's. So I'm just after advice on putting this setup together. I can assemble it now worries. More just after tips for tuning ie: more timing and less fuel down low to fill up the lag gap? And ideas about afm placement? I have read a bunch of stuff about afm placement and am leaning towards leaving it in the stock configuration. I'm getting some oil and water lines from ebay. Are these as simple as bolting in? I read something about a 20 micron oil filter for the turbo. Anyway any info/ideas would be good.
  5. Well I have 2 turbo's in the shed. Its just a matter of putting it all together when the flanges arrive. The reason I kinda shied away from the nissan ones is cos they're so old that the chra's will be rooted. EDIT: The money is basically spent. Only gotta sort out some intake piping.
  6. It doesn't have to be twins. Just seemed like a good idea cos the stock turbo's are so cheap and I can put it together for stuff all. Also I have the head flange and 2 T3 flanges paid for and arriving soon. I could always suck it up and eat my words and "look like a cock" but like I said its not hard to sort out and I already have most of the bits on the way or at work. I dont care about being different. Read my second sentence again.
  7. Ok blokes. Line up your I told ya so's. The twin setup is still going ahead but not with the stock turbo's. After consideration I've decided to use better quality turbo's. Bearing in mind that it will be on the rb25 first then swapping to a relatively stock rb25/30 (7000 rpm max) what are your suggestions for turbo choice? I'll buy new turbo's etc and as this will cost more I'd rather have it work the first time. It should be more suitable for the 25/30 than the 25. Also I have a couple of T3 flanges for the manifold so take that into consideration. Lemme have it
  8. Exactly right.
  9. Nah haven't tried putting the dyno wb in the dump. I wont worry about it seeing as I am the tuner. I only put it on the dyno to check it and see if I could get any more top end. Considering I tuned it to 247.6 rwhp and the dyno yielded 253.3 rwhp I'd almost never pay someone to tune my car. Although it sounds like I may be contradicting myself, I asked the dyno shop to check it and add another degree if they could. Also to have a quick sus and fiddle in the middle of the fuel map. Not taking anything away from the Rotomotion guys tho. They know what they are doing.
  10. So Trent, do you reckon that 12.5 is fine for mine? Most of the RB dyno sheets I have seen are at 12 to 1. I figure that seeing as it is only driven on the street and isn't at wot for very long it wont get too hot. I haven't got a pyrometer so I cant really tell tho. In saying that I still have a stock turbo so I dont want to spit the exhaust wheel out just yet.
  11. ^1. Never do stuff half arsed on a car cos you could kill yourself or others. Vice grips and wd40 are your friend.
  12. I have thought of running super rich and more timing but haven't tried it yet. Its a pity the weather is wet or I'd have a go today. I have found though that the amount of fuel used between 12 to 1 and 11 to 1 is very noticable. I can get around 650 ks a tank running at lean at light load and obviously heaps less on boost. I have found that anything past 16.5 to 1 the car surges, although most of the time in normal driving it is under that. 16.5 is just when my foot is still on the throttle at 60kph.
  13. When I said lean it out I only meant from the 11.5 it reads now to 12. Safe is good tho. On the subject of spooling up early its gotta be lean to get the exhaust gas hot and expanded to create more volume of gas to turn the exhaust wheel. Having the timing right for spool up is equally as important. Enough but not too much or it will run rich. Cars will have more power leaner but run a lot hotter. Then you reach a point where you lose power cos there aint enough fuel there. However that point is far beyond safe under high load. Don't go there! Running lean (16.5-1)and high timing (30-39) at light load on my car is optimal as I use bugger all fuel and have the engine ready to spool early. As soon as it spools and gets up in the revs (over about 4k) you gotta cool it off with the extra fuel. Antilag is not like spooling up in the normal rev range. You use stacks more fuel and completely different timing to achieve it. Phew... back to movies and beer
  14. I might lean it off a bit then so it uses a bit less fuel. Not that it is a huge consideration when you do up a skyline but it has got me kinda worried how much it will use when another 200 rhwp is added to it
  15. I have tuned most of it myself over the last few months. I was still at work while the car was being tuned. I didn't get to see any logging when I picked it up so I'm pretty sure they just had a look at it and changed the bits I asked them to. I got it to 247 rwhp with the stock turbo at 12 psi and they found the extra 5 rwhp by adding 1 degree to load 16.
  16. Of course. I didn't even think of it being different after the cat. Mine is in the dump pipe. The dyno is in the tail pipe. So...where is the best spot to measure from ya's reckon?
  17. 141. http://www.dayco.com.au/PartInfo.aspx?P=94988
  18. I put my car on the dyno at Rotomotion on Friday to get my tune checked. I was/am using an innovate wideband that is about 3 months old. Anyway there was a 5 point difference between my wideband and the one at the dyno. Mine read 12.0 to 1 at wot. The dyno read 12.5 at wot. I got my tune adjusted accordingly. Scored and extra 5 rwhp as well. Anyway just putting it out there. It would suck to melt something cos of trusting a $260 sensor/gauge.
  19. Series 2 R33 GTSt, RB25DET, 188.89 rwkw or 253.3 rwhp. Stock motor at 170,000 k's. Stock turbo at 14 psi 900cc JECS injectors Z32 afm walbro 341 600x300x100 front mount Power fc Pod filter HKS split dump 3inch front pipe, stock cat, 3 inch kakemoto catback. BP 98 Tuned by me and checked by Rotomotion.
  20. If it sucks it sucks. I'll only be mildly disappointed if it does. I was kind of thinking 10 to 12 psi each at about 4000 to 4500. Haha... I just asked the missus " What happens if I do this twin turbo setup and it sucks arse"? She says straight up in a no nonsense tone "Buy a bigger turbo". Hey why do people think that a less stressed turbo is more likely to blow? EDIT: No parts yet.
  21. Do your fuel cap up tighter.
  22. Bed time now. I'll repost when there's a bunch of parts sitting on front of me.
  23. We're actually trying for a baby atm. But tha'ts a bit off topic isn't it. This twin setup isn't anything that I or anyone should lose sleep over. I'm doing it for fun. It will work no doubt. Might not compare to new ball bearing turbos. Doesn't matter tho. Just out of curiosity....who here has done this or are we all guessing, no matter how educated the guess may be?
×
×
  • Create New...