Room42

This again. I bought my manual 1995 r33gtst for $6500 (guy was desperate). Had the timing belt replaced only 20k previous and a hd clutch in it. Even now after front mount, exhaust, turbo setup, full fluid change, new brake stuff, gauges, fuel pump, z32 afm, computer, tune, injectors and whatever else I forgot, it owes me almost 14k. And I did ALL the work on it. Labour for all this would be ridiculous. Had I spent that in the first place, and I could have, I would have had a heaps better car. I saw some wicked gtst beasts around the 14 k mark. Drive it for a while if you want but really you should advertise it now and start looking for something else.

Yeah cops can be unfair with their defects. I'm similar to you in that I just turned 31, full license and don't hoon on the road. Its just not worth the risk. Really you can only floor it in 1st and 2nd then its all over. The nearest place to open it up safely (no traffic) is over an hour drive from Perth and even then the speed limit is still 110. Gotta test the wideband somewhere tho. My car hasn't seen any track time yet but it might one day. It is still stock height and stock rims. It looks the same as it did from the factory. Just new paint, that's it.

Yeah man definitely short of the engines potential. I actually bought it to suit the rb30. Then I talked the missus into buying me the spool kit for my 32nd birthday. Oh well it'll still be fun to drive

I think you guys get a hard time from cops over there. I haven't been pulled over once. My car does look totally stock tho. (:EDIT: Apart from the front mount.) Also there is traffic out the arse in Perth at any given time so you don't really get looked at over here. I swapped my qld license to a wa one and I was worried I couldn't drive my car here cos it's turbo and they put me on my p's for one day. They're like nope no difference if its a turbo and no power limit either.

I use my car every day. I reckon I've done nearly 10 000k's since I bought it back in march. What can I say, I like driving.

Hahaha it was a bit of a lame launch. More like a double launch. I've seen a few of your clips on youtube. Nice work man. I saw that you got kicked off the motorplex the first time you went out or something. Have you got back there yet?

The hotside is .82. I spoke to Kyle at 6boost a week ago and he is making me a manifold and supplying a 50mm wastgate too. I have enough of the other necessary bits to max out the z32. I realize that I wont see much if any boost before 4k ish. I agree with you entirely about matching the turbo for the engine. If I was keeping the stock 25 then I would have got myself a bolt in hypergear turbo to put me around the high 200 rwkw mark. I haven't got money to burn and that's exactly why I got this turbo. Its only a maximum of 11 months and 2 weeks (yes I am counting it down) till its a 3.4 litre. I think that the 35r will be perfect on the car next year with the 3.4 spool kit As I have mentioned I may put the 30 in beforehand as a stock bottom end 3 litre. And before anyone says it, I know that I will be swapping a lot more bits to get the 3.4 working well.

True true. When I swapped my stock dump for the hks split dump I'm using now I noticed a lot of moisture build up in there. Even on the exhaust wheel of the turbo.

If the instructions say put it further down then thats what I would be doing. I only calibrated mine once when I first did the install. The bosch site says the sensors we are talking about have a 100 000k service life. I have wrecked a O2 sensor on a different car I had once (vr commodore) and that was from holding it at redline till the O2 sensor and fuel pump and power steering pump died all at once. If it works further down and is reading accurately and isnt getting carboned up then that would be good enough for me.

Hanaldo I haven't had any probs yet. That's not to say that there wont be any as its only been a few months. In the bosch website they reckon that the sensor has been proven reliable at 1000 degrees celsius. It also mentions that the placement will vary according to the manufacturer. From what I gather the sensor has to stay very hot to burn the carbon off. I dont know exactly how hot that is tho.

Here is some good info. Seems that the bosch sensor is fine in the stock location. http://www.bosch.com.au/content/language1/downloads/02_Tech_Guide_Email_Quality.pdf http://www.bosch.com.au/content/language1/html/4566.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_dSK5alBSbw

I've had my innovate hooked up for about 3 or 4 months now. You dont need an extra hole in your dump!!! It plugs into the stock location and has 2 outputs. One for the gauge and one is a narrowband signal that you can use for the ecu to keep it at stoich when cruising. Both outputs are fully configurable. I've got my wideband talking to my datalogit which is actually a bit useless seeing as the datalogit can only give min, max, or average values. With my girlfriends help I managed to tune my car extremely well using the datalogit for knock and the wideband for fuel. You dont need a dyno to tune your car. My tune was 98 percent of what the dyno guys could do and I would have got it to 100 percent. I just had other things to do besides tuning every time I went for a drive. To answer your question straight up, any lag time that is there is almost nothing and wont affect your ability to tune it properly.

I had mine off last week. The block side was a bit of a pain but I got it on in about 2 min. I just bent mine a little with a spanner on the inside of the water line hole to get it to line up good. The dump was off so I could reach around the back with one hand and screw the bolt with the other. I can see how it could take a long time and be frustrating as all hell tho. I was swearing after trying for a minute to get the block side in.

To properly support the high flow from stock you would need computer, injectors, z32 afm, fuel pump, front mount (and oil and water lines?) and it wouldn't hurt to have a decent dump pipe. You already have a couple of these things I see. You cant run bigger injectors or the z32 afm without the computer but you can install the computer and make around 200 rwkw without swapping the injectors or the afm. They will be maxed out tho and for the injectors its not a good thing. My injectors hit 100 percent at 190rwkw or thereabouts

We dont have ethanol at the pump in Perth. Still a valid point tho.

You mean like this clip?

You 'should' get a power fc. I got mine with a hand controller for $1000 Then a z32 afm. I got mine second hand for $100 Then some big injectors. I got mine for $500 refurbished. All that with a bleed valve will get you another 50 rwhp or so but it will stress your turbo a lot more. Mine made 189 rwkw or 253 rwhp on 12 psi on the stock turbo. Unfortunately there is no cheap way out of it like paulr33 already said.

It just occurred to me that I might have to get different dump pipes made up cos of the height difference in the blocks. Since the 30 is almost ready to go in (waiting on parts) I'm thinking now that what you are saying here might be the go. By the time I get the manifold the other parts should be here. They better be cos I ordered them last week.

Is it just me or do those plugs look lean as a bastard? Lean means hot and knocking. Either that or only run for a very short time. Check this link out. http://www.denso.com...Used-Spark-Plug

outdoor furniture oil hey?

I was thinking along the same lines. Mine sticks a bit at 1200 and wont idle lower than 900 even when I set it to 500. Should go give it a clean I spose

Hey Rolls I've been speaking to a guy on here who has a very similar setup to what I will have. Reckons he sees 23 psi at 4800 and makes about 420 rhwp. This was done on a stainless manifold, not sure what brand. Has run his motor like this for 2 years as well as running it at 26 psi for a dyno day to pull 470 rwhp. I'm getting a 6boost manifold and with my deadly tuning and the manifold I reckon I can get it to spool up a fair bit earlier. A electronic boost controller might help things a bit. I'll certainly try it at 20something psi. Also I was thinking that I might just chuck in the rb30 with the untouched bottom end and take it easy for a while. At least it will improve the spool up time a bit. I'll only do that if the 25 sucks too much. I seriously thought about getting a high flow for the next year but I really only wanted to buy one turbo so this is the one I'm stuck with. On the subject of tuning with the new turbo, I'll make sure that it doesn't knock. Lol I'm not going to just assemble it and go out and floor it, tho it would be cool. I'll just sus out the load lines carefully a bit at a time till I'm sure that it will be ok. So far it hasn't seen past load 16. I have put a tune through the whole map (fuel and ignition) but haven't used it all yet so I'll see how it goes. I use motul oil and it never gets held at wot for long. I generally don't go sideways cos I'm on public roads so the oil will be staying where it should. Most of the time I only rev it to 6600 cos the power drops off at 6950 anyway with the standard turbo. I'll up my limiter to 7600 from 7000 so it doesn't hit it anymore when the new turbo is on, also giving me a bit more legs. I'm going to get it back on the dyno for a check after I tune it and I'll try the afm where it is and in the cooler piping to have a sus. You can be sure that I will post results, pics and a couple of youtube clips once its done

Gimme 20 bucks over 340 any day.

Sorry if I offended you Hanaldo. It wasn't aimed at you. It was more for the haters that seem to think they know everything and that I'm doomed to failure.