Room42

^Sounds like it.

This is how I put mine in more or less. http://photos.imageevent.com/kadepunk/hybridinstallationguides/GTS%20kit.pdf Get a hard pipe kit from ebay and the intercooler of your choice. Get a big one. Be confident and drill yourself a hole with a hole saw. Piece of piss mate.

That's worth it.

From the dyno readout and the powerfc telling me that with the stock fuel pump, the stock injectors were at 100 percent.

Lol when I was just a kid of 9 years old I heard the term extractor. Your idea is what I thought it was. I've never thought about it since. Sounds alright tho as long as it is regulated...

Well its odd that the new 7xxcca battery didn't help seeing as jumping made a good difference the other day. It was probably cos your battery was flat. My car is still playing up a bit like yours. I have changed my 50 and 80 celcius crank inj ms to 35 and it seems to help. I haven't had a long time to test this tho. Something I have noticed with both of our cars is that when they are hot and turned off and started within a short time they both start ok. When they are left off for a little while they both crank for too long. It seems to me that we may be getting a bad initial spray pattern from our injectors to get it started. Still, we only need compression (we got it,didn't change), fuel (problem?) and spark (we got it,didn't change) to make it go. I have 9xxcc injectors and you have 650cc injectors. My car started fine before I swapped the injectors. I have changed the latency on the new injectors a lot, up and down to minor effect. The injector size percentage on the pfc is the equivalent of the k constant on the nistune and it only got so good then it wouldn't get perfect. We didn't touch the k constant on yours but I changed the latency a lot to small effect on starting. I reckon one of us should try our stock injectors again and see if that helps out. I could only get mine "so good" with the new injectors then that was it regardless of everything I have tried, and I have tried everything I know about starting a car except the afm scaling down low. I don't think that will affect anything as changing the inj cms would alter that anyway. I have a set of 370cc stockers in my shed and I'm very tempted to put them back in to see what happens. I also have a stock afm so that can be tried out as well. At the end of the day your car is not starting acceptably at all. Sure a few seconds of cranking is ok but draining the battery from cranking is no good at all. I'm happy to help you sort this out sometime but probably not till next week as I'm getting married on Friday and the inlaws are over tomorrow for a week. After next Tuesday as is fine. Can anyone see a common thread here with the lack of starting?? P.s. Initial timing on Hanaldos and my car has been changed significantly. No difference. Up to 50 degrees on mine made it worse. Edit: Hanaldos car showed 21.9:1 on the afr gauge while cranking and normal while idling. No cranking ms change wold make a difference.

Ptssshhhhhhh....BANG...FLAMES...Stall... Oops that was the intercooler pipe popping off again

I disagree. I don't think that the difference you are talking about is measured by bosch. Could be but I doubt it. The sensor is the part that will die not the housing. It does mention on the pdf that for track use the sensor should be 36 inches from the turbo so it doesn't cark it. SimonR32 youtube us up

I don't know a lot about it for the pfc as I haven't researched it yet but I do know that using the datalogit there are 32 points at which you can adjust the curve. There are 20 load points in 400 rpm increments that have a load value which is adjustable. There is a number that corresponds with each of the 32 voltage points that is adjustable to set the curve values. I don't think it is the load value tho because the numbers in there don't match up. I have no idea what this number is. Does someone on here know?

A bit like women once they're in the dark. Nah just kidding ladies, you know I love ya

It depends how you drove it. The scratches don't matter as much as the chip. It could last years with the scratches and gentle driving. But that chip is the worry and if that chip catches your rings then it could be over in a matter of minutes or seconds. And needless to say if you flogged it then it it would be the same verdict.

So changing the afm pronger into a different size pipe sounds like an easy way to scale your afm.

Gates belt was $2 cheaper for my "other" car than the oem item. Gates are stronger and cost bugger all more. Plus they are blue so it looks cool. Blue stuff makes your car go faster.

Here is some interesting reading. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/LC-1_Manual.pdf Previously discussed, it does mention that the sensor should be kept to 900f. It is the same sensor that bosch manufacture and recommend a max temp of 1000c. Go figure. It also recommends calibrating the sensor frequently so this mornin I'm gonna calibrate me a sensor, yup. 4.3 Calibration Schedule Normally aspirated daily driver: - Calibrate before installation of new sensor - Calibrate new sensor again after 3 month of use - Thereafter calibrate once a year or every 20,000 miles, whichever comes first Turbo car, daily driver (tuned rich): - Calibrate before installation of new sensor - Calibrate new sensor again after 3 month of use - Thereafter calibrate twice a year or every 10,000 miles, whichever comes first Race car - Calibrate before first installation of new sensor - Calibrate once per race weekend Dyno use - Calibrate a new sensor - Calibrate every 2-3 days, depending on usage

When you say fully tuned, do you mean an individual tune either way? The comparison was done on mine with only one tune, the current one. I lost 20rwhp in the middle from having it off. It made no difference above 3900 so that's where we left it. Also, DVS JEZ mr nissan would have worked out the vct switching point based on a car running 5 to 7 psi through a stock turbo with an entirely stock car. Its possible that when a car gets everything on it swapped over from the computer to the tailpipe that it would have a different vct switching point.

One of my intercooler pipe clamps broke today and it drove alright but was running at about 12 to 1 on cruise. It ran ok but wouldn't boost very well and was rich as a bastard. Thats what a loose hose will do to your car. In my case it was still sealed up a tiny bit so it was enough to suck through the afm. I have had pipe pop off before and a huge flame came out the back before running at 9 to 1 or richer. It would barely drive like that. Just food for thought. It might help or it might not.

Yeah mate they all do it. You cant do anything about it till the ecu is swapped over or piggybacked.

For what its worth the vct on mine changes at 3900 now as opposed to the 4700 stock rpm. That where the dyno lines cross with it on and off.

Exactly.

Ok, sure I could get off the couch and get the verniers and pull bits off my skyline and compare it to the tb in the shed to find out for myself. Sure I could make sure that the tps and tps plug is the same and that it rotates the right way etc. I could sus out the vacuum lines to make sure it all works out. In fact I could get off the couch and answer my own question. But that would involve doing stuff which I'm not inclined to do right now. So here is the question. Drumroll......Is the rb30e throttle body bigger than the rb25det throttle body and can I just swap it over? Thanks in advance P.s yes I did search for an answer 1st Ok so I just got off my ass and pulled the rb30 tb off and also pulled off the tb on my skyline. The rb30e tb is 55mm and the rb25det tb is 60mm.

Ok thanks for that. I just clicked on the link before and was still half asleep and too brain dead when the page came up to realize that I could open the link.

Only jokin fella. You may get a little more power from the stock injectors and afm. If the afm is at 5 and a bit volts then there isn't much you can do except swap it out. My stock injectors were hitting 95-100% regularly and the stock afm was hitting 5.1 volts regularly to get between 190 and 200 rwkw. That was with the stock fuel pump.

This.

The problem is the stock ecu. Get a power fc or better still a mafless ecu and put it in. Dont worry about taking it to the dyno yet, its a waste of money. Put that cash toward your new computer. It will feel like a new car once the computer is in and tuned. Your car will have about 150rwkw give or take.

Its a bit small. Can you take a bigger one?