Room42

Those prices sounds like too much. A mate just got a two into one system from the extractors back fabbed for his vk 304 and it cost $250. He supplied the muffler. Pipe is worth bugger all and to run a single pipe under the car should only take a couple of hours to cut and bend and weld it up. I prefer mild steel as it wont crack as easily as stainless.

Name the fuel pump...ok... I name it Barry. Sorry I cant be of more help but its worth a laugh

Probably as shit as it would be when you are both rolling and you both have the right gear selected and the bigger turbo just leaves you for dead for all the extra power it provides. Having a big turbo is not a bad thing. You just have to learn to drive around it. I have owned and rode 2 stroke bikes for over 20 years. You have to have the right gear or you got nothing. But then when its on band no 4 stroke can get near it. You don't chose a 35r to get the same power level as a 30r. How many people drive their car on boost all the time? I hardly ever do. It uses too much fuel. I either grandma drive or I flog the guts out of it. Smaller turbo's need more boost. That's up to individual personal taste.

Exactly. It should only take about half an hour to get a wot tune done for someone who is familiar with rb's. Similar story, I rang around on friday to get a dump pipe made this week. I told one guy about my car and what it has and what it needs. He's like you have to leave it with me for a few days. I told him straight up "Mate it is a couple of feet of pipe with one bend and a couple of flanges on each end". I made the mistake of leaving a high powered car with a business for a couple of days when I was 20. I got it back with different tyres on the back and a slipping clutch...There is no way I would leave my car so some apprentice can try turning it up to 5 or 600 hp and blowing it up cos it aint tuned yet.

I'd like to add a point here. When you are giving the car a bootfull you are taking it to redline yes? So it is irrelevant if a big turbo comes on boost later. As long as you have enough revs up your sleeve so that the next gear change will make boost it doesn't matter how small your powerband is. A smaller turbo means that you get boost earlier once. After either turbo is spooled and the revs are up they stay pretty well the same.

Bloody oath mate. I'm putting a genuine garrett gt3582r with a 6boost manifold on my r33 gtst early next week. I have supporting mods to tune it to wherever. It will be held back by the fuel pump which is an intank walbro good for 255 lph and stock internals. Should have it on the road by next weekend. It will be a pleasant change from 200rwkw .

Hey mate I'm sure if that's your car specs in your signature you don't need a clutch kick to get wheel spin. P.s my wife went to uni in Launceston and I lived in Hobart for a couple of years before we moved to Perth. The roads here are no where near as good as Tassy and the air is no where near as cold. And there is no tele with cheap steins on a wednesday either.

I know we were debating this in another thread a couple of months ago. I believed that because the actual hole in the front of the turbo is only about 2.5 inches (that's the technical way of saying it) that a 3 inch afm in front of it wouldn't matter. I cant for the life of me remember where I read it, and it wasn't Harey's comments, but it convinced me that it is better to run a filter straight from a pipe to the turbo and put the afm in the cooler piping. It will be easier to set up, putting the afm in front of the turbo. I'll try and find the link where it mentions it's not good to have the afm in front.

Exactly. I know a bloke who has a ford 9 inch in his gemini. It needs it.

Sounds good in theory but the turbo has a 4 inch inlet and restricting this in any way affects the spool of the turbo. I thought the same thing as you until I looked into it.

It looks like luke and gtsboy still are stuck in the mindset that auto cars are slower and you need a manual to pushstart it. Well here news boys. Auto's are quicker!!! Line up an auto and a manual with the same rwhp and the auto is quicker. Haha you both FAIL and the fact that you comment as you have in public makes it so much more FAIL. Haha anyway just a lighthearted dig. No need to cry about it. I'm sure this little vid will make yous happy again. Lmao as if I give a f**k about what anyone says....ooops I just pissed myself laughing http://www.youtube.c...h?v=h5oWX06iXbI

Some of you know that I am putting a gt3582r on top of a 6boost manifold in my r33gtst. I have a z32 afm. Where have you put yours? I was thinking near the start of the "J" pipe. I have done some reading about it and I'm after first hand experiences on what psi it has burst at. Does wrapping it help? The manifold will be here early next week so I want to start getting it ready this weekend. Any other tips appreciated in regard to afm in cooler piping.

Ok not quite double. The price has dropped a fair bit since I last checked. Stock coils: http://www.ebay.com....5#ht_500wt_1156 Splitfires :http://www.ebay.com....#ht_2706wt_1139 EDIT: Splitfires aren't comparable to stock coils for price. They are better and cost more. Are you going to put $500 a tyre semislicks on your missus hyundai? And why would you buy a stock coil for the same price as a splitfire coil? Thats like being offered $20 for free and $50 for free and taking the 20 cos you like the colour red.

Just a tip. Once you have put in the ign map and changed the injector settings etc try not to initialize the pfc. It takes bloody ages to put all that info into the computer again unless you have a datalogit.

Yep it is a bit. But the car is happy there. Any leaner than 17:1and it will start to surge. Plus I dont have egt sensors in each cylinder or any for that matter. I dont want to run any leaner till I get them installed. I read that the sidi commodores run around 18:1 or thereabouts at cruise.

Mine runs at 70 degrees. Sometime gets to 75 in traffic. So my 50 and 80 are 1.000. When I say zero I mean 1.000 cos there is zero correction.

Hey man cold start is different than the 30 min idle learn that you do first off. To reset you go into etc and its in there somewhere. You initialize the pfc. Unplugging will do nothing. Then you will have to put in the vg80 afm setting, the injector settings and then start it and do the 30 min idle thing. I have got away with not doing the idle thing and it makes bugger all difference. Up to you. I cant say it enough tho man as tempting as it may be dont give it a hiding until its tuned. I've pm'd you the ign map. Cold start is setting the water temp in the settings. You add or subtract fuel by increasing or decreasing the numbers in there. As it isn't tuned the numbers already there will do the trick for now. When its tuned ideally you dont want any numbers in 50 or 80 degrees so the tune stays more stable. Dont make it zero yet as you will have to change the fuel map significantly to compensate for this.

Dude. Seriously?

Jealous my ass. My 6boost manifold was posted last friday with a 50mm turbosmart wastegate (Thanks Kyle!) and I already have a genuine garrett gt3582r with braided oil and water lines sitting on the kitchen table. Already installed in the car is a 255lph walbro, 950cc injectors, full kakemoto 3 inch, exedy hd clutch, lc1 wideband, power fc, 100mm thick frontmount, z32afm and a fully sick subwoofer uley. So what am I sposed to be getting over??? EDIT: I read your spec list bro. I'll rip you a new one down the strip any day.

Uploaded in 240p cos it was taking forever. http://www.youtube.c...h?v=W8S5_zvseUA

This is sound advice. They are good reasons to pull out the coil packs in their housings and do the front 3 one at a time then replace and the back 3 one at a time and replace. Can you imagine a little bolt poking through your timing belt? Yuk.

In other words you floor it and pull a wheelstand...

Bahaha. Thats right don't worry. I sound more cranky than I am. I'm not saying leave the stuffed coils in there. I'm just saying that splitfires are twice the cost of stock ones and if the original coils lasted 15 years then new stockers will last another 15 years. No doubt splitfire are better for high performance but simply aren't necessary for a completely stock car. Of course if money is no issue then get the splitfires. I agree with changing the plugs at the same time. I disagree with leaving the coil housings in there and swapping the coils individually. Way to fiddly and likely to drop the little screws in which case would have to remove the lot anyway. I recorded a youtube thingy in which I remove and replace the front 3 coils with one hand on the camera and one hand on the ratchet. I'll add it when its finished uploading. At the end of the day its just advice. You don't have to take it.

lilcrash. You gotta sort out your boost control. You are jumping the gun. Save yourself looking like foghorn leghorn and fix it. Then when you have exhausted (no pun intended) every possibility, pm hypergear or call them. Dont call people out in public. Chill out and have a cigar.

Mate it might be a bit far for me.