Room42

Here is a look at my hand controller. Its a stock internal rb25det hitting almost 8200 rpm at about 26 to 28 psi through a gt35r. I raised the rev limit to 8500. The youtube clip is uploading now and should be ready in half an hour. I took it a bit easy in first gear to prevent limiter bashing. I guess another degree of timing can come out at the high load 8000rpm cells.

To start with 6500rpm is nothing. A 304 holden v8 will do that. In all seriousness when a capacitor shits itself in your tacho circuit it actually does read 9k or more all the time. Sometimes it works but mostly it is rooted. Hence the aftermarket tacho/shiftlight on my dash. I'll be sure to post some redline footage tomorrow... But really the op is asking an arbitrary question if he/she actually means "how much could the stock internal rb25det take all day". I think some people get scared by rpm. Sometimes the car will take it and sometimes it will shit itself. You need several things to make an engine last at high rpm. Good oil and oil pressure and a good cooling system is just a couple. But really who cares? Drive it how you like and be happy. If it blows up then rebuild it or get another used engine. Sure it cost money but money is there to be spent. Like I said mine see's 7600 every day of the week...on the way to and from work...If it dies then I'll have a pissed off wife and a new motor...

Aha. Fair enough then

Really? A bigger cam requires changing the cam does it?

You are right you know. My tacho reads 9k rpm all the time. Even at idle...

I rev mine to 7600 every day. It's not stock though. The inside of the motor is but the rest isn't. It revs to 7600 like it doesn't want to stop. You don't even see it coming at wot. The op did say stock. Ask SimonR32 what he thinks about rev limits on stock internal rb25det's. I'm about to try his philosophy soon. Rev limits are for warranties. (and pussies) jks

This. And... there is a whole thread about this just a 2 pages back if anyone cared to look or let this guy know. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/373464-wideband-kits/

Exactly

Although it sounds like I was taking the piss I was actually being honest about it. If you want a fast as f**k skyline then you'd better start from the start and one of the starters is a boost gauge and boost tee.

A stock rb25det. Taking that at face value I would assume that the answer is "whatever rpm the stock ecu limits the engine to". I never tried it on mine. Would a stocker take it all day? If we take the engine to be all the parts that make it run then I would say "probably no". You might just lose your turbo. A lot of 15 yr old engines wont take a limiter bashing for 24 hours which is technically a 'day'. And a lot will. Its up to the ecu really and how it deals with a hot engine. Also the engine would have to be in reasonable repair to rev like that for extended periods.

I haven't put it on a dyno yet. I can only go off similar setups that are on here. I would say conservatively 450rwhp. I'll get it on the dyno this week if I can and let you know.

A little update. I went for a tuning drive today with the datalogit in use. Before I went I wound the bleed valve out so it would land around 25 psi. We made the area under boost a bit richer with the afr's to help it pick up a bit better. A big thanks to my beautiful wife for being my co-tuner. As we got out of town I gave it some cautious wot runs in second to see what boost it was going to run and to check the knock. It ran about 25psi but to be honest I didn't have a clear look. I had wound the bleed valve 2 and a half turns up from 22 psi. Each turn is about 1 psi. I ended up pulling 6 degrees out of load 17 to 19, 5 out of load 16, 3 out of 15 and 1 out of 14. I am now running 11, 10 and 8 degrees in load 16, 17 and 18. Winding out the bleed valve makes a fair bit of difference on when the turbo hits full boost. The afrs are 12.0:1 from 4000rpm dropping to 11.2:1 at 7000rpm. The highest knock level now is 11. I am pretty happy with that. I might be able to get another degree in there somewhere but that will be another day. The car absolutely hauls ass now but I could still do with some more power. It pulls from 60 kph to 100kph almost instantly in 2nd gear. After 4500 rpm even on half throttle it will get up to 20 psi or more. The stock coil packs were missing a bit at the higher boost level. I guess it is time to upgrade them. They work fine at 22 psi though so I'll probably wait a little while yet. I might even try adding a touch more dwell in there so get more of a spark happening. The fuel reg line kept popping off at the higher boost so ended up cruising home. I had a look under the bonnet when I got back and most of the vacuum lines had moved along their fitting places. One of the cooler pipes was about to come off as well. It seems I will need either new lines everywhere or a bunch of little clamps or cable ties. Funnily enough the clutch didn't slip today as I thought it would but I was a lot more gentle with the gear changes. Soon it will be time for another round of upgrades. Brakes, clutch and wheel/tyres are next.

Oops I was on my phone again with no sigs.

This thread is a clear example of not f**king with stuff when you don't know what you are doing. You could have killed yourself or someone else if the brakes failed and without fluid they fail. Next time you need work done to critical parts of the car like the brakes either know what you are doing or don't f**k with it. Sounds harsh but seriously count yourself lucky your car ain't written off or worse. Mechanic tightened it up. f**king hell...

Didn't you pull a low eleven? Ima head down the strip when I get my clutch sorted and get me some proof. I am hoping to get kicked out too.

First things first... Along the lines of what The Mafia said...Get a boost gauge. Boost gauges are cool. Wasting money is relative. I could ride a $50 mountain bike to work but instead I drive my skyline every day that I "wasted" $8k on so far. For now just put in your boost valve and keep turning it until the car cuts out violently. You will shit yourself when this happens and wonder if you blew your car up. You didn't. This will be about 14 psi. Then turn it back about half the turns you have already turned it. This should land you above 7 psi and below 12 psi. Play with it. In my opinion you don't need to spend money on a ebc yet. Buy a power fc or similar so you can use the extra boost properly. Then read like a mofo for a few weeks so you know stuff. Stuff is good to have on your car but you need to know what to get and which order to get it. Here is the suckfull part. I do all my mechanical and tuning work myself. I have worked out that to turn a r33 gtst from stock to beast cost about $20k. But first things first....Get a boost gauge and put in your manual boost controller. Oh and be nice to The Mafia or he will rip you a new one.

I was going to say something like that but was on my phone at work "hiding in the corner" so to speak. We have different exhaust systems and what R31Nismoid says is correct. Just disconnect your dump from your front pipe, wire the front pipe up nice and high and go for a quick drive. Be aware that you will blow soot everywhere and possibly melt some wiring if you drive for very long. You will soon know if it is the exhaust making it lose boost or not. I tried running my car straight out the turbo very briefly when putting my setup together. My car lost 3 psi from putting the exhaust on but still held whatever boost till redline.

I use a manual boost tee. Not sure of power yet. 98 octane fuel.

Man I have a gt3582r with a 6boost manifold, 50mm turbosmart gate, 3 inch turbo back exhaust and a stock cat. It is sucking through a z32 afm. So far I have run 20 psi and it is rock solid till my 7600 redline. Based on my car I doubt it is your exhaust or your cat causing havoc.

You might find that the enrichment for the first couple of thousand rpm is a tiny bit much. I run my car fairly lean down low rpm/load so there is a tad extra enrichment to help it pick up. As jonnilicte said you will notice it as a quick rich spot when you move the throttle. Dragging on the brakes wont get you a higher load cell than wot will. It might get to the same load line earlier ie: before boost and coming onto boost. These unused cells can be made like their used neighbour as you wouldn't use them on the road anyway. Using the brakes will however enable you to hold a cell that you cant usually hold. Here is a map trace from this afternoon. I drove to the highway normally and then used wot from near idle in 2nd gear.

Man you contradict yourself there. Tuning is tuning. If he couldn't tune your car and someone else could then that says it all right there. If I wasted hundreds of dollars chasing non existent issues and it turned out to be the tune then I can guarantee that I would be getting my money back from him for the tune that failed. As far as not bad mouthing him, you already did. He definitely isn't in the top 3 tuners in WA. I tuned my car to 246 rwhp on the stock turbo and the dyno only got 7rwhp more. How short was yours again? And the bloke was using a dyno the whole time. Your turbo clearly does work though doesn't it. Your latest tuner got your car sorted. Your previous tuner is advising people to ditch their $1500 turbo because he can't tune it. Hypergear has been proven time and time again yet your previous tuner disregards this. I am inferring from your post that he is giving bad advice to naive people due to his lack of tuning ability. Here is the 1million dollar question. Why would you still refer people to him, given your bad experience?

Oh btw the unused load lines up top were adjusted by me. They will be close to spot on but aren't tested yet.

You are on the money rolls. I can run the extra 1 and 2 degrees if it is 16 psi. At 20 psi the knock went to 50 hence the couple of degrees pulled. This map was originally made for the stock turbo running 14 psi. I haven't changed any of the timing our fuel yet except the couple of degrees. The reason that there were a couple of load lines the same is that was the max load the stocker saw and I wanted no extrapolation there.

As you would know this is my ign map. I have run 20 psi through a gt3582r on this map. But I have pulled 2 degrees from 17 and one from 16. It knocks under 20 all the time.

He is using a z32 afm. In his settings, instead of everything being at 100% a few of them were at 95% etc. My actual z32 voltage curve is standard. I personally prefer to have everything at 100% and tune the actual map. I sent him my entire tune. I'm not sure if he used the ign map or the whole thing or other parts of it as well. I told him that although the ign map will be miles better it will probably need some taken out up top. Also I made it clear that the fuel map may be totally unsuitable. I said quite a few times that he cant give it a hiding yet. It still needs to be thoroughly checked for correct afr's and knock. The poor guy has taken it in to be tuned several times and spun a bearing on his last engine from having a crappy tune.