Room42

Not having a go at you bud but lol when your fuel pump fails methz. And they do mate. I guess you'll be forking out for a rebuild and tune cos you don't/cant do it yourself. Goodbye $10k or more. My forged beast only cost $6k in parts including a twin plate clutch, splitfires, side mount manifold and plenty other goodies.Only $2700 of that was internals and machining...Of course there was a lot spent prior to this build on boltons. If someone can get me a forged rb2530 for under $6k assembled and installed with a twinplate clutch etc then I will give up now. They are my new mechanic lol. Saves me the greasy hands. I'd hate to be in the position where I had to spend nearly $20k to get a reliable strong engine. I've met a few perth guys who have. One bloke spent 25k on his rb26 and only put out 400rwhp...Poor guy. I met a guy the other day who randomly pulled into my driveway when he saw me fitting my new slotted rotors to my r33. He asked for some help with his 33 and I diagnosed it in 2 seconds flat. He had already been to 2 mechanics and spent several hundred dollars without getting it fixed. Me being the good guy I am swapped his coil packs out for my stockers and his car was boosting again. He was over the moon and even more so when I said "Just give me a carton of corona". I definitely will continue to build and tune my own cars. Why pay for it when I can do it better myself? Last time I got a tune checked on the dyno they only found 3 rwhp. I know my way around the Haltech E11v2 extremely well now which is more than I can say for most of the dyno shops in Perth. I got knocked back by 6 different shops when I asked about doing some dyno time with the haltech. Of course there are a few guys who are good with it who I have found out about. Anyway another long post in the wrong thread but what the hey. Be sure to check out my results when the new engine is run in and tuned. I am using a 3 bar map sensor atm and will swap that later to run 35 or so psi. Good times Edit for spelling. Dur..

The oil was fine but thanks for the reply. The tune was fine too. The fuel pump failed. As I have already stated in many posts, I don't need a dyno to tune. Thanks again for the advice. If my wife got off it in time the car would be fine. But its all good. Like I said I was just waiting for a reason to build the forged monster. The only reason that will go on the dyno is because it is illegal to pull 150kph skids down the freeway. Sau, the new youtube, feeling the love.

Mods: Usual crap and gt35r@26psi. Power: ? Plenty more than 300rwkw. Fuel: BP98 Oil: Some full synth crap. Usage: Drove it to work and cruised on the weekend. Saw 7k rpm every day of the week. Lifespan: Not long enough. Failure: Was tuning in the passenger seat with the missus driving. Was fine the day before and the day it broke it was leaning out a bit. Didn't have much fuel in the tank...Either that or the fuel pump wasn't keeping up. Third gear pulls down the road from 80 kph. By the time I saw 13:1, yelled stop and she got off it, it went over 15:1 at full boost around 5k rpm. It was like this...brrrrrr, pshhhh, crackle pshh crackle pshh crackle, BANG! Popped off the intercooler pipe. Put the pipe back on, started it and there was blowby from one cylinder. Drove it home. Stripped it down a few weeks later. Broken ringland in number 2. Bearings still good, bores still have hone marks, no signs of detonation. Only broke from the leanout. Could have lasted ages or not... Lucky it broke or I would have never built the forged 2530 that is currently getting machined. Should be in the car by next weekend.

Ok blokes a quick update. I have got the thing tuned pretty well. I haven't put a huge amount of time into it but for the 4 or so hours that I have tuned on the road I am pretty happy. It is trickier to tune by far than a power fc but it does work. It is just a lot more complicated and has to be set up right in all areas. In my opinion the power fc is so good due to how easy it is to use and the fact that it works well in the correct applications. I got it to control the idle after a bunch of reading and adjusting. I tried out the anti lag the other day. Apart from scaring the crap out of the cats and the missus it seemed to do its thing. I got 14 psi at 3000rpm and 24psi at 4000rpm. Roto idle works. I haven't even looked at the accel enrichment yet. It isn't a huge issue at the moment but I will take a look at it eventually. The car really hauls arse. It is somewhat difficult to tune wot on the road due to speed, wheel spin and noise. I still need to get it on the dyno to neaten up the high rpm/high load stuff but all in all it is sorted. After selling the power fc, datalogit and z32 afm this ecu only cost me $200. A worthwhile upgrade at the time. I might try out a different ecu down the track if I do run into the issues that others have had. So far all is good.

WOW!!! Spokesperson my butt. If he was the legal dude you say he is then he would be recommending the OP a legal cat wouldn't he. Not just contradicting my posts with nothing useful to add. Much like the majority of the people commenting on this thread. So where was your useful advice again?? Oh wait there wasn't any...

I'm sure most people drive off boost. Any time at all I hit full boost regardless of the speed limit there are 2 black lines out the back. So it is off boost for me

This coming from a guy who told me I would make 250rwkw from my setup.

Are you sure you know what scavenging is? The turbine housing and wheel have very little effect on that.

Good point. I just haven't got the work done yet. It will be sorted.

I disagree that it means sweet fa. Once again you are trying to influence younger and inexperienced readers by your comments which can lead them to huge amounts of grief. I make "enough" power to make most blokes happy. I will never get defected with my exhaust setup. Not from the cat and not from the noise. Big deal if I lose 3 psi at the manifold by running a full legal exhaust. If I want to I just turn it up more no worries. Lemme show you blokes some (not all) areas of comparison between na and turbo exhausts. For both engines the more free flowing a system is, the more high rpm power you can develop. A big system on a turbo or na car will lose low end/off boost power. Both engines will benefit from the scavenging effect of a smaller exhaust at low rpm. The only time a turbo engine benefits from a huge exhaust is when it is coming on or on boost. Less difference coming on and more when on. Here is the "best" one...A big system on either engine is likely to get your car put off the road for several reasons. Excessive noise will put you in the hoon category. This is identical for a turbo or an na car. Check out your local hoon laws. Its only 3 times that you get caught before you lose your car for good. This is more of a consideration for me than having the "highest flowing" cat out. Everyone is different and some blokes are happy to risk huge fines for an illegal cat and/or losing their car for "hooning" from excessive noise. The OP is choosing a cat. That is why he started this thread. He should consider every aspect to car modification, not just the biggest is best view. On a side note, since when is being noisy "hooning"? In my eyes hooning is driving fast. Apparently our law makers have decided having a loud car is hooning too. Sounds like a bunch of crap to me. Hey fellas its only advice. You can do whatever you want to do

Ash "Why bring it up?". The fact you ask that means you should listen more. Trolling me is like kicking yourself in the nuts. It is pointless. I will humour your question however. We are talking about flow here. Specifically exhaust gas flow through an exhaust pipe and even more specifically a catalytic converter. 600hp will be near enough to the same gas flow from either a NA engine or a turbo engine. If it works through a 3 inch then leave it there. We are also talking about a street car here. There is more to consider than just having the biggest or highest flowing system. What is the point of having a 4 inch exhaust or a 5 inch cat when you can't leave the driveway cos you got defected? Police don't need a reason the send you over the pits. What about the guy that just spent a stack of cash to get his exhaust made up with a huge cat that now has to take his car over the pits? There go all his mods and his cash. "Please, while reading this, keep in mind that we are all here to have fun, kill time, learn or whatever and that at all times the sites best interests are in mind with any actions taken towards individuals or groups". Have you read that lately? The OP got confused, on his own admission, about exhaust flow. It is not in his best interest to get the biggest cat out there. I comment to help the bloke, not to have petty arguments about relevance that only you bring up. If you want to be pedantic about the thread listing then move it to general maintenance as both NA and turbo cars have catalytic converters. zebra Fair enough. A few runs is proof enough. luvpsi He didn't correct anything. If you think from his comments that there is no comparison between NA and turbo cars then you have been misled. They are different but there are plenty of areas to compare them. Use your own judgement mate if you cant get a straight answer on this forum. Ring some performance shops and exhaust shops before you commit to anything. I'm happy to let you come for a drive and see how much the cat will actually affect the power you are chasing. It will make you think twice about using a possibly illegal and defectable setup. Blokes I love cars and mechanics more than most and I would hate to see someone off the road due to an unnecessary or illegal mod. For a track car yes. For luvpsi's car, no. But each to their own.

You quote me but you don't read what I write. We have had this conversation before. I said it was not a turbo engine. Can't get any clearer than that. What is misleading about that? 2mph could just be a harder launch or better shifting.

That isn't a lot of difference. Sure, it is something though. Gotta love changing a hot exhaust

Guy just forget about using the afr map with a power fc. Tune by correction and you will have a boner all day long. You still tuning Chris? Mate I'll have you sorted in a few hours on the road if you are keen. Pm or txt me.

I generally agree with everything you say in your post. One of the points that I implied in my previous post is there was that the OP has a stock turbo and worrying about a 4.5 or a 5 inch cat should be way down the list. Getting one or the other is not even worth considering. Just get either. If the OP is chasing power then there are plenty of better ways to get it. I have dyno'd a 600hp engine that with a 3 inch system. It lost power with a 4 inch system. It wasn't a turbo engine but the overkill principle is still the same. Someone might pick up 40rwkw (maybe me when I pull my finger out and swap the cat) but it wont be the OP with his current setup. I took a couple of guys for a drive the other day and the first thing they commented on was how quiet my car is. The next thing was how it surprised them by how well it went. Cop bait is not always best and a loud exhaust is one of the primary thing you will get picked up for.

Just some food for thought about flow. My R33GTSt will turn the tires for about 100m in 3rd when it comes on boost at 110kph. I'm still using a stock cat.

Lol my fmic is made in America. But there is a good point there none the less. If you can drill a hole or use a hacksaw or plan out an install of any description then you are pretty right. The welding I did would only cost $20 to get done. I almost never pay to get work on my car done. But then I've had a huge amount of experience with mechanics and fabricating. I'm happy to help people for significantly less than a mechanic. Payment is always in beer. Advice is free. If you don't know how to use a hand drill, angle grinder, hacksaw or any of these kind of tools then either go out and buy them and practice or do a quick course. The money you will save will more than pay for the tools and tuition. At the end of the day if you don't know what you are doing then find someone who does. At best you will save yourself money. Worse case, if you f**k up stuff like brakes and steering, you or the person you crash into could end up seriously hurt.

you forgot this..."And paid double" lol

I welded two 30 cm aluminium pieces of flatbar onto the top of my intercooler and bent them to fit onto existing holes near the bonnet latch. I drilled one hole per support at the top. I used the threaded fittings on the bottom of the intercooler and ran some mild steel flatbar about 15 cm long to existing holes under the radiator support. I only drilled two holes per bar here. I got it as high as I could and as far back as the piping kit would allow. It would be entirely possible to make brackets with no welding whatsoever but I was lazy and welded the top.

Like I said, I noticed no difference in response when going from the sidemount to the frontmount. There is a big difference between what people think will happen and what actually happens. Its like saying that a drop in the ocean makes a difference. Sure it makes a difference but is so small that it isn't noticed. Big piping and frontmounts make bugger all difference to response. Tube and fin will let more air through however once again it is not something to even consider. I don't use a fan shroud (I broke it accidentally), and have a 100mm thick bar and plate core in front of my stock radiator. I never have heating issues even in traffic on a 30 degree day. Realistically any frontmount will be better than a sidemount. It is very unlikely that the new cooler will be insufficient whatever the outcome. I haven't found any bolton "kits" out there that are in 3 inch piping. Everything is in 2.5 inch. Which is more than ample. Based on the novice questions it seems the op needs a kit at this stage. It is not a hard or technical upgrade to accomplish. We behind the keyboard can only do so much. So, OP, go buy a intercooler kit. NOW!!! P.s I worked with a bloke who manufactures radiators and intercoolers and he told me that even if you had a hole in your intercooler 1mm across it wouldn't be measurable as a pressure drop. Don't worry about getting it tested for leaks. A visual inspection will be fine.

I believe it's time to say "pfffft". Why spend more when you can spend less for the same result? For all the stuff I read on here about ill fitting kits mine fit perfectly the first time. How easy do you need it to be? I put it on in a couple of hours with a mate. That included hole cutting and bumper grinding. Save the extra few hundred and spend it on fuel. You will need it for all the "testing" you will have to do on your new kit. Or you can spend double for a sprayed on stencil...

Like Zebra says there are kits out there. You can buy a hard piping kit from ebay for about $250. You still use the standard 'J' pipe so you keep your stock bov valve. Which is actually called a recirculation valve but whatever. If you want to keep some of your intake setup (bov, whatever) then you may need to cut some of your existing or new piping up. It is piss easy to do. Make sure you get a lip rolled into the end of your pipes if you cut them otherwise the pipes will 'pop' apart from the silicone joiners. Majority of people have 2.5inch piping with 3 inch outlets on the intercooler. I know a guy with 3 inch piping on his car. It also pulls a skid at 200kph on 265's. I think there are plenty more things to do before using 3 inch intercooler piping. Maybe when your turbo outlet is 3 inch then think about it. This is identical to the kit I got. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/POWER-SPIRIT-INTERCOOLER-PIPING-KIT-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R33-RB25DET-GTST-/190598512860?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c608e80dc#ht_2399wt_954

Read this. http://nissanskyline.6te.net/tuning_GTS25T.htm

With a standard R33 turbo, I went from a r34 sidemount to a 600x300x100 bar and plate frontmount. There was an immediate 2 psi increase at the manifold. The response remained identical. The sidemount used to get too hot to touch. The frontmount barely got warm on the hot side and remained cold on the outlet. Even now after swapping the turbo to a gt3582r running 20+ psi the frontmount still barely gets warm on the hotside and remains cold on the outlet. After I got everything sorted the silicone bends and joiners stay put and don't burst. The piping and the cooler came in at about $500 and I put it in myself. I have 2.5 inch piping. The piping is made from mandrel bent aluminium.

Hi Ben. Just a quick tip. It is the wideband controller that outputs the signal. It is not the O2 sensor.