Room42

Hey dave f**k off with your smart arse high horse shit. Every time you take your car to a professional you will get new head bolts with your head gasket. Plenty of mechanics won't even fix your car if you ask them to cut corners like that. Cutting corners is stupid. But if that is what you want to do then go hard.

As I already said torque to yield bolts should be used once. It is irresponsible to get on a forum with the high standing of SAU and say that it is fine to use head bolts 4 times.

Funny that. Who would have thought to use any search engine like google or even a huge site like wikipedia to search for stuff when you can just come to SAU and ask questions in the forced induction thread. While I'm here... Why does my cat keep waking me up at 2:45am every morning?

If you want to do this to get more power don't waste your time. People used to do this back in the days of 186's and 202's. It made a difference on these cars cos the 202 or 3.3L as some would call it, had only 101kw at the flywheel. If you want more power get a bigger turbo. If you absolutely must do this then just block the vac lines to the manifold and leave the fuel purge line just hanging there. Expect to smell fuel vapours in the cabin.

This^ And...you spent a whole lot of money fixing stuff that wasn't broken. Type in r and r into the search feature and see what you come up with.

All this can be answered by google but here's some help anyway. 1. That is the going rate for wideband kits. 2. Bosch say they will last for 100,000k's. 3. You will get better fuel economy if you don't use a narrowband signal. You can just use the stock location for your wideband sensor. http://www.bosch.com.au/content/language1/downloads/sensors_oxygenlsm11.pdf 4. Did you see mine yesterday? I'll post a pic for you when its light. 5. Yes. 6. I told you yesterday that the wideband setup in my car can output 2 configurable channels. One goes to the gauge and the other one can output a narrowband signal or a wideband signal. The threads are the same. Q 2 and 6: These questions imply you need to read up on the difference between wideband and narrow band and how your gauge works. There is a thread that will answer all of these questions just a few pages back. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/373464-wideband-kits/

If you reuse them then there is a high chance the bolts wont hold the proper torque settings. This means the head gasket will blow quickly.

The first sentence of the thread kind of gave it away.

Mate its like this. Most head bolts are torque to yield. That means they get done up once and are stretched and twisted at the proper torque setting. They are fine while they are done up. After you undo them you cant reuse them. There is no difference if they are 2 weeks old or 20 years old. Ok sure you physically "could" use them but head bolts are only $70 a set. You would not rebuild an engine and not buy new head bolts to save $70 bucks. It a bit like oil. You wouldn't buy $14 supermarket oil just to save $70. This time get a someone to build your entire engine with forged pistons and get a warranty with it. Or get an already built R.I.P.S engine for under $8k.

If its map based you wont have the problems that an afm system has. I just swapped over to a map based computer. My stock bov/recirculation valve is still atmo (will be plumbed back eventually to help gearshift lag) and there are no dramas at all. No more stalling, no more rich spots after gear changes and no more soot all over the back of my car.

Well f**k

Ok so it is plugin as they get. With the base maps is every other setting to make it run. If I had read the instructions then I would have got it started straight away and saved myself a couple of rooted coils. But eh what can you do. I'm a bloke. I don't need instructions. I got it going this afternoon and went for a short drive. The missus is a fairly capable tuner now and she sorted out the low load fuel. There is still a stack of tuning work to be done to get it perfect but it is definitely drivable. I've heard some people here bagging this model of computer. In mine and my wifes opinion this computer is a lot easier to tune in spite of the larger maps and more features then the power fc. If the haltech should be avoided like the plague then burn your power fc's now. But hey each to their own. I forgot to do up an intercooler pipe and it was a very pleasant change not to have the car shoot a 5 foot flame out the back and die out the arse in traffic. I'll have a tuning day tomorrow and should have most of the fuel map done. And just as I had the power fc almost perfect...

Have a look at the QLD section. There is almost half a dozen skylines stolen on the first page of threads. Makes me glad I don't I don't live there. An acronym for QLD is Queers Love Dick. Says it all.

Someone had a drunk night of driving

Yeah I knew there would be a lot in the afr and the timing. I guess I better get it down the strip hey. I think the clutch might let it down a bit but I should get through there pretty quick. Top of 4th is 125mph. That's what it would do I spose.

Haha this reminds me of youtube. Lemme guess, the average age of the posters on this thread is somethingteen. Op dont buy this car. I bought a manual r33 gtst for $6500. I spent about $8k on the engine side of things and it rips almost anything on the road. You just gotta keep looking for a month or 2. Don't buy a f**king auto. Unless you're like me you wont like it. And you're not like me. I bought a cracked veilside front bar for $100 after I broke my stocker. I unbolted the bottom part of it. Car looks more like ass than a stock one does but hey some bar is better than no bar. Facepalm X10

This is an excerpt from the Haltech website about fuel requirements and power levels. If you can estimate the power output of a gasoline engine, you can make a reasonable guess at the fuel flow requirement. A simple rule of thumb, thus, may be expressed in metric or imperial units. Note: Every 100 hp needs around 50 lb/hr (8.0 US gal/hr) of fuel (6.6 Imp gal/hr) Every 100 kW needs around 670 cc/min (40 L/hr) of fuel This assumes a brake specific fuel consumption of 0.50. The actual fuel flow necessary by injectors and pump are likely to exceed a figure derived this way. This is due to the overheads in injector dead time and pumping return fuel to maintain regulation. I worked backwards with these figures and with my 910 cc injectors at 68 percent my power level came in at 554kw. This is at the flywheel I assume. This seems a tad high. Who here can fill in some more information to get a more accurate power figure?

What's a skid?

Cheers for that Rob. You just saved me another coil or 2.

Thanks for that info. What do you mean you don't want one? Man if I had 2 tacho's like that I would have one lined up with each eyeball to get stereoscopic revving uley. I wasn't giving you shit tho. It is a 90's model commodore in case you were wondering. They don't rev very high and take ages to get there too.

Goddamn some people just need to stick to walking.

Ok so I got the ecu lined up with the engine now. The ecu and the crank marks are saying 10 degrees with a timing light. I pulled the plugs out so the engine would turn easier and I managed to blow up 2 of the coils. I needed a signal for the timing light. I put it on the white wire on number one and got nothing. I plugged in a coil and the light worked. I set up the timing between the computer and the engine. All good. I went and did some stuff and checked it again. I used a different coil for some reason. It all checked out. I noticed the coil was hot. I checked it and the top had cracked open. Same for the other one. Apparently they don't like running by themselves. So anyway here are the screen shots of the way I have set it up. I have a value of 69 in the tooth offset to get the ecu to line up with tdc. So I have a few questions. Should I change the constant charge time and/or the spark break time? What about injector peak and hold voltages and also injection angle? What value should be in the nissan home window? Plugin my butt. The only part that is plug in is the harness. I reckon I'll give myself a week of stuffing around after work and if I cant get it driving and a decent fuel map by then I'll spit the dummy and take it to someone that knows what they are doing. Which is very rare for me. Once again its past my bedtime so.........snore......

Cheers zebra. I'll try this afternoon.

Cheers guys. As I only just got it yesterday I haven't had a lot of time to play with it. I know it will take a lot longer to get right than the power fc but I'll get there. I'll do a bunch of data logging with the power fc on the weekend so I can get the tune as close as possible. I really think it is something to do with the firing order. I'll post screen shots after work today.

So the power fc is still in the car but it is getting the boot. I bought a Haltech E11v2 plugin today. I also got a 3 bar map sensor with it. After driving 110 k's to pick it up I got back home and plugged the sucker in. I wired up the map sensor found an appropriate vacuum line for it and also wired up the air temp sensor. I went through the various setups and after all said and done all I got was a backfire that sounded like incorrect firing order. It came with a base map for the rb25det which I used but really that doesn't make any difference at this stage. So for the blokes that know can you please help me with the initial setup. Do I need to change the firing order group or the firing angles group? Is the trigger type "nissan 1 2 or 3"? I'm just a bit unsure of the trigger setup and the ignition setup mostly. I have already calibrated the tps and all the other sensors are working. The computer and laptop are communicating properly. There is definitely fuel and spark there. As I have 910 cc injectors I used a range of 1 ms to 5 ms to start it to no avail. The cas is in the right spot. I've tried swapping the load signal from map to tps to afm. The manual says something about telling the ecu what position the engine is in. It didn't make a lot of sense but that could be cos of my tiredness. My flamin cat was up playing soccer with its jingly ball last night!! The software can be downloaded from the haltech site for free so you can see exactly what I mean. Anyway I appreciate any help in these areas cos if there's one thing I've found there are some switched on dudes on this site. in advance.