Room42

Rolls no offence but based on your comment this afternoon you don't know what you are on about when it comes to injectors. After the pulsing comment I thought you would have left it alone But all good anyway... My car has 910cc injectors and have hit 68 percent at a 11.5:1 afr. From blokes that know, I have learnt that 85 percent is the max for injector life as well as fuelling reliability. Clearly they can be run higher but don't last as long. On topic... Hypergear

A 12k rpm tacho in a car that can only rev to 5750rpm....

This sounds like the go.

Reason for sale is I'm getting a mafless ecu. Will separate later in the week after I buy another ecu. Power fc with hand controller $1000 firm $1200 firm with tunes. Datalogit and accessories $200 firm Z32 and trust pod $200 firm for both Will include a cd with tunes to suit stock turbo and gt35r. $1500 the lot Will post anywhere at your expense or if the lot goes together then I'll post for free.

Fair enough. You didn't mention that you bought it back. Also didn't say what kind of write off it was. It sounded a bit dodgy, the way you first put it. But now it sounds all above board

Is it just me or did you just admit to fraud?

I've spent almost $8k on bolt ons for the engine to go harder. Haven't got to suspension, drivetrain, wheels or anything else yet. In hindsight I would have bought a built one.

Ideas... Ok... A fuse or 2, fuel pump, fuseable link, corrosion, fuel filter, plugs, map sensor, battery is dead or dying, relay, ecu wiring/connection, wiring from alarm removal not correct, dodgy sensor somewhere, ecu has died, corroded plug connections anywhere, water in the fuel. Just some ideas. Look at what you need to make it run and start testing and checking. A gradual death will point to some things more than others. All the best mate.

My lounge room.http://www.speedtest.../1554036645.png EDIT: TPG unlimited download, $60 a month all inclusive.

Did you read my first post in this thread? Or any of the thread for that matter? The fact that you say the last 2 pages have nothing to do with the thread would tell us you didn't. That is all it proves and I never said otherwise. Nor did I say it was reliable. The thread topic is called "Stock RB25 - How Much Rpm?" I posted a video of a stock rb25 revving. If that has nothing to do with the thread then I don't know what does. Clearly an rb25det can rev to 8200 without breaking. If it wasn't clear before then I'll make it crystal now. I made this video for the purpose of this thread and for the general enjoyment of sau. We all like watching car stuff on youtube or tv. FWIW my rev limit is 7600 rpm. It is set there so it doesn't hit the limiter. Most of the time when giving it a hard time I shift at 7k and sometimes it will be closer to 7600. The rest of the time its at 3k or so. In my opinion reliable means "never breaks". Fair enough stuff wears out but it shouldn't break. Three or five years is not a long time. Nor is 40, 000k's. How pissed would you be if you had to spend upward of ten grand every 3 to 5 years on an engine rebuild and turbo replacement? You are right with the comment about pushing a motor. They wear out faster. If they break, its either from excessive power levels or poor tune/maintenance or outright thrashing (heat and revs). So back on topic how many rpm have you spun your stocker to Nismoid?

Mate it is an ordinary tacho install. Signal wire, 12v, earth and lights. You adjust the shift light by pressing and holding the button.I did a youtube video on how to do this. Look for my videos at Iamroom42 on youtube.

I think it may have just touched the limiter. EDIT: I thought I set it to 8500 but it might have been 8200. The knock is usually under 15. But then the revs are usually under 7600 too. This particular time it revved to 8183 rpm.

100 percent is normal. You can tune large areas of your fuel map by adjusting the values up or down. It affect the amount of fuel that is added at these afm voltages.

I did post this link in another thread to show a stock engine revving hard but since it is more related to this thread I thought I would post it here. Just so you all know the stock tacho reads 1000rpm high in this vid. There was no clutch dumping and the 1 to 2 change was gentle. http://www.youtube.c...h?v=ZCG9jTJozuM

How many rpm do you spin yours to Hanaldo?

Lol it got a bit of a warm up. It was 68 degrees. I was waiting for someone to spot that. How did it go compared to your car? You have 260 rwkw don't you?I have read quite a few different things about the max power the z32 afm can handle. Now it has me wondering how much mine has got.

I reckon you get the best of both worlds. Good fuel economy cos its not too often that it is at 25 psi or so and good power when it is. So how many rwkw is 5.07 volts on a z32 afm approximately? I heard they max out at 360rwkw. I'll know soon anyway after it gets on the dyno.

Almost like that. There is a spot where it has about 5 to 10 psi and it goes pretty good there too without spinning the wheels. Also it is reasonably easy to control the boost with the throttle. But a good set of tyres is definitely need past 200 rwkw.

Yeah its gotta be over 4500 rpm to go hard. I'm glad I have an rb30 in the shed cos even tho its quick I still want more. Maybe grippier tyres will make it more fun.

Yup. New wheels and semi slicks are on the list.

Grrr I uploaded the wrong video. Here is the right one. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZCG9jTJozuM

I will eventually get an egt sensor and gauge but you know how it is with doing up your car. It cost bucket loads. It'll all come together over time....unless I win the lotto

The missus was watching the afr gauge and she reckoned it was mostly low 11's and went to 10.7:1 after 7500ish

I haven't tried it myself but I have heard that you guess what the timing and fuel will need to be after 8k and then change the 8k cells so the extrapolation works it out. I could be wrong. That was the one and only time that engine will see that amount of rpm. The power fc lets you tune to 8k rpm anyway. I'm about to upgrade my ecu to a map sensor based one so the afm maxing out wont be an issue.

8 degrees edit: that's the z32 afm