Room42

Well since I haven't heard from anyone to buy my spot I guess the money can be put down as made a donation or something. Either that or send me a couple of shirts

Deccel fuel cut?

Think about it like this. Now that the bov hole isn't there the engine is getting less air at idle. Also the afm is probably reading higher becase its only sucking through it instead of the bov too. I'm sure nissan measured the airflow through the bov at idle and tuned the car around that. Now you have less air the idle is crap. Try disconnecting a vac hose and see if it idles better.

That's terrible, how can you go on? On a more serious note find the cracked/disconneced hose and replace it.

Ok I tried posting in the wa for sale section but that didn't work. Basically I cant make it on Friday. I've already paid the $70 so if someone wants to buy my spot off me then by all means contact me about it. Cheers, Nathan

Indeed this. I got my r33 GTSt cheapish. $6500. Already had a hd clutch and catback. Rest was stock. Now its worth $14k to me and that's not including labour of which I have done all of it. I would have bought something already done up. Not that I regret doing up my car (I kept all the stock parts) but I could have bought a forged GTSt already done up. My advice is this... If you want a fast, reliable, good handling skyline then sell your stock one and use the cash toward getting one already done up. Do the boos mod but don't waste any money on it. You will save easily $5k in the long run. In my case that is less than a year.

ARTZ you might already know this but judging from the thread it seems you may not. To check if a ball joint is stuffed you have to jack the front of the car up so the wheel is in the air. Then you grab the top and the bottom of the wheel. Pull the top while pushing the bottom and then reverse. Do this quickly and firmly and then you will see if there is any play in the ball joint by the wheel movingfairly. For tie rods you do all of the above but you grab the sides of the wheel. Also with tie rods and a lot of steering components on many cars you can get someone to move the steering wheel from 10 oclock to 2 oclock back and forth fairly rapidly and you can see any play in the joints. The wheels have to be on the ground for this one and obviously you have to lie under the car. Remember that if you replace tie rod ends yourself that you have to count how many turns the old one came off. Also if the new tie rod ends aren't an identical length then you have to measure to within a couple of mm to get them in the right spot. Then you absolutely must get a wheel alignment. If your toe adjustment is way off the tires will get very hot and delaminate or at least scrub out within a couple of hundred km. Final tie rod end tip. You need a big hammer to get them out and you smack the side of the hole that the tie rod end goes through. Don't hit the thread, it usually wont come out easy. Hope that was helpful mate. If you already knew all that then nothing lost aye? Nathan

I think you mean how much boost can the stock turbo run before blowing up. Mine has seen 20 psi a few times, 18 psi a few times, 16 psi quite a few times, 14 psi for ten months. It started leaking oil after ten months. Others haven't had my luck and their turbo has died rather quickly on far less boost. As far as gapping the plugs go I'd say that almost everyone on this site has done it. Like GTScotT said you can get your turbo high flowed for around a grand, you can get a front mount from ebay with a pipe kit for $500 then put it in yourself, buy a second hand power fc and hand controller for a grand and get it tuned for around $500. On 12 psi this setup will net you around 190 rwkw. This will pretty much max out your injectors and your afm. So there is your $3000. Then you spend another $500 on some refurbished injectors, $300 on a new z32 afm and a couple of hundred on a fuel pump and you'll be looking at closer to 250rwkw. Or if you are like some others here you go out and spend $4.5k on a turbo setup that will rip you a new one. You did say you wanted to keep it cheap tho. Run 9 or 10 psi with gapped plugs and it will go better.

Lol at "if I can". If I can I'll turn up my car till the fuel pump or z32afm maxes out. Realistically it will greatly shorten its life if I give it a hard time. We'll see how it goes.

Just from a quick look on youtube at results and on the website for prices and specs it makes me kinda wish I had one instead of a gt3582r

Anyway back on topic. r32 stock rb25det engine. Outback Perth. Not my car. This gives us a good insight into how much power a stock rb25det can handle.

To start of I'll say that I wouldn't let anyone tune my car, even for free. If I was going to tune my r33 for the track it wouldn't be on a dyno. And as it is now it wasn't tuned on a dyno. Sure I put it on a dyno after I did what I could with it, to check how much power it had and get the guy who tunes all day long to check my work and make changes that I specifically asked for. For what its worth he said it was the best tuned car they have ever had in there. If I had no choice but to use a dyno as is the case for many, I personally would make sure that it would last a flogging on a track. I sure as hell wouldn't just do a few runs in 4th gear with a dyno fan on flat out. Some would, I wouldn't. That is asking for trouble as you found out with your $7k engine zebra. As far as a safe tune goes I think it would be more correct to say that a tune is safe for its application. I disagree about the point you made about a "safe tune" being one able to handle 50 degrees and minus 50 degrees at 8000 rpm at wot. To have a single tune that would be "safe" for this extreme would be shithouse. That's not a good tune at all and I would even go so far as to say that the car is not tuned. I acknowledge however that you were making a point with that statement. I also would add that most oem cars are designed to work at that extreme but they have more than one map in use and more corrections than a singular one map tune. So tuning is really subjective to an extent. Guys I'm not having a go at yas but for me at least it is common sense to change my tune to suit my driving style. I don't tune every day but I do check constantly, due to fuel inconsistency. If you know that you are going to give it a hiding for a long time then soften your tune a bit. I agree with street tunes being less forgiving. Mine is. If I was to loan my car (which I wouldn't) then I would pull 4 or 5 degrees off the top so it came back with the engine intact. Five or six degrees is enough timing pulled to run 91 octane. Phew long ass post, first day back at work for about 6 weeks and just got home. Happy days.

I am about to head down this path myself with a gt3582r. I'm going to push the engine as far as the fuel pump will allow as that will be my limiting factor. I find it interesting that people are always referring to a "safe" tune. In my opinion there is either tuned "properly" or its not. When I tune a car it doesn't knock and the afr's are "normal" ie: 12:1ish at full load. How else would you tune your car? You sure as hell wouldn't tune it so it knocks excessively. In saying that you run as much timing as you can whilst still making power. You wouldn't run 5 degrees less than it could handle when you could run 5 more and it still doesn't knock. Sure you can run more or less fuel at full load. My point is that when I hear people talking about a safe tune it makes me wonder if they actually know how to tune a car. When you are pushing an engine to high hp levels you get the tune right or you f**k your motor quickly. I should have it dyno'd in about a month so I'll let ya all know how it goes. Check out SimonR32's car for reference to this thread.

Paid up and looking forward to meeting some of SAUWA there. Who knows, if my can of whoop ass is big enough I'll share it with everyone!

I thought I'd better add a couple of pics as the turbo is high mount. The crossover pipe is just there to show where it will end up if left standard. I reckon I'll cut it today and get it sorted.

I'm not sure what switching thing you mean. Pin 32 is for the engine check lamp. I have included a pinout map for you. I dont know a lot about rb26 wiring so you would be better off googling the answers you need. I am happy to help still even if I am googling them myself.

Point proven. Internet troll. Anyone can cut and paste from wikipedia and hope to fool people. I have seen a lot of your posts in other peoples threads and you troll them too. That shit in your signature is about me. You've been reported once and now twice. Like I said last time SAU is for fostering goodwill and friendship among members. You are clearly doing the opposite of this. I have paid to be here and have been open and honest in my profile and I sure as hell don't go around abusing people like you do. Its only a matter of time before you get banned.

I mean no offence but this post doesn't make a lot of sense really. I tried to get through it with thinking outside the square and this is what I came up with. You said "mafs" and "both of my O2 sensors". That implies that it is an rb26. A narrow band O2 sensor should read around 0.5 of a volt and vary up and down a few tenths of a volt. I think they max out at 1.5V or something. If an O2 sensor is reading 2.5 volts it is either a wideband sensor with controller outputting said voltage or a stuffed narrow band sensor. I've only seen narrow band sensors read a lower voltage when they are buggered. Once again I'm not having a go at you but if you can't accurately describe the problem in a written format then it seems wiser to me that you take your car into a dyno shop. They can check the tune for you and rectify any problems or at least point you in the right direction toward fixing them. Just a quick check like this would cost less than $150.

A bit silly hey Jez?! Oh well there are all types I spose.

Mate if you read the thread they are talking about putting petrol or similar through an engine from the oil filler and draining it out the bottom. Read before you post. And you sure as shit wouldn't "rinse" an engine after putting petrol or diesel through it. And what happens to your engine if you let it dry after said rinsing? No one in their right mind would start a washed, rinsed and dried engine. Oh my god I am wasting my time here.

He is an internet troll. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/377944-manual-to-auto/ On the subject of air flow meters, the wire mesh is there to create a laminar flow which is basically streamlining the air to get a more precise reading.

I was reading about stuff and I came across this. This non-return valve must not be removed from the fuel pump, removal will result in fuel system pressure loss as soon as the fuel pump is shut down. If the fuel system cannot retain a certain amount of pressure after shutdown, fuel vapourisation may occur in the fuel lines and rail resulting in difficult hot start characteristics. http://www.bosch.com.au/content/language1/html/4716.htm Maybe your pump and mine are a bit worn out? I swapped my fuel pump at the same time as my injectors so it is possible that it has been the fuel pump the whole time.

Have a look on ebay. They have joiners there to join a square to a circle to a triangle and back again. What I mean is there is a lot of joiners out there. Measure your joiner and then find one that fits. Hmm that sounded dirty. Ebay.

Ok so I got the 6boost manifold today and trial fitted it on the car with the turbo, wg and lines hooked up. As it turns out there is no room for the standard "J" pipe any more. I dont really want to cut it but I think it will fit if I do. I can then use all the standard vac lines to the carbon canister and bov. Also the intercooler pipe that comes across the fan wont fit either. But its all good tho. Tomorrow I'll invest in some silicone bends and a hacksaw to modify some of the piping that was on the car and some stuff in the shed. I will try the afm in front of the turbo for now and see how that goes. That way I can get away with using the existing air filter and afm wiring for now.

In no particular order; clamp any line that is coming off the intake manifold, the tps voltage is fine and no it should not be 0.0V mine is 0.34V, you will not need a tune just because of a cracked o ring, if you replaced the aac did you adjust the idle screw in it? Screw it all the way in and then bring it out half a turn at a time until the idle is correct. On another note I meant in my last post "throttle stop adjustment" not idle screw adjustment. You should not be touching the throttle stop screw and if you do then it will need to be reset with feeler gauges and the tps voltage checked. Be careful with using pliers on hoses as they can wreck them pretty easy. I prefer bending hoses but use a rag if you have to resort to pliers. There is stuff all that you can do in a tune that would make a car idle above about 1200 rpm. If you lean a car out at idle through the tune it will idle lower. Check that the boost controller is connected properly. It could suck air in through incorrect installation. Plenty of things it could be but I'm sure we'll get to them all and you'll get you car sorted.