Room42

I was pm'd by a guy today. He told me this about swapping an rb30 auto gearbox into my manual r33 gtst, "My choice is a GTS4 auto then fit the drive train from an Aristo. (2JZ auto) The Toyota engine is just so superior to the Nissan there's no comparison. " "I'm over 60, done more conversions than I can remember and I was only passing on my experience from many years working on rubbish designs." "The Toyota auto is also brilliant, really locks up quickly not like the Nissan which slips heaps until convertor lock. I've driven my son's 300rwkw R33 and then his stocker Aristo and the Aristo is just fabulous, once it's up and away." So it seems from what he told me that you are better off putting supra gear into your car because nissans are a "rubbish design" and are just so inferior that there is no comparison. You now have you answer. Look no further.

http://www.rodshop.c...s/2wd_trans.htm Check this out. You can buy a conversion kit including bellhousing to fit different transmissions to the rb30. I know someone who has a manualised trimatic for sale that has handled over 350 rwhp. Sounds good to me.

I concur.

My arse. End thread. I'm kidding tho. Just for comparisons sake I paid $187.50 total to get my car sorted on the dyno. Yes I did tune it myself beforehand and they only changed one load line, 1 degree, in about 9 cells, on my advice that it may be required. The also pulled some fuel from the middle of the map for me on my request. They added some accel enrichment to make it more driveable and smooth. They spent an hour and a half on the dyno after I had spent a while driving around tuning with the mrs. If on the other hand you are looking to get a full tune from scratch ie: not running and no numbers in the maps, get the fuel reg adjusted, the tps set right and the boost controller set up then yes it could take all day especially if something doesn't work right like the boost controller or tps or fuel reg or manifold leak etc. And then yes at $130 an hour or whatever they charge it could definitely end up over $1000. My 2cents...For the mods you are getting the tune touched up for, it should only take 2-3 hours. Tune it yourself and if you cant then pay whatever it cost to get it tuned. But that's just me and its only advice.

Yes true. If we are talking about only garretts the yea Titan is right. But if I had a stick up my arse then I would go on to say that the "r" at the end means bb. I originally made the comment because a china turbo could have a significant spool problem that would allow for better grip. EDIT:

Cnts who tailgate and clearly dont give a flying f**k if they hit my car when I slow down. FKN GRRR!!! lol

Go drive yourselves an old ford or holden with three on the tree and then complain about a skyline box being hard. I leant to drive in these old pieces of crap and believe me the skyline box is like getting gobbys while driving compared to the old 3 on the tree.

As long as there isn't smoke coming from the tyres and excessive noise or wild lane changing you can do whatever the Ff**k!! you want to do. A cop told me i did a burnout once and I said "Mate thats not a burnout I just accelerated quickly to the speed limit". He checked my tyres and left. f**king wankers that they are.

^ That is what I was thinking. Except they want $3200 and I could build my own for a fraction of that. As far as selling the car I have and getting an auto one I would be no better off. I have put stacks of money into this one and I would be hard pressed to get it back if I sold it. Would you pay $14k for a stock looking 95 s2 r33gtst that has shitloads of bolt ons? Thats what it cost me. Even If I put all the stock parts back into it and sold it I would be stuffing around for a few days to make it stock again not to mention fitting it all the bits to the new car. Then I would have a slow as f**k auto skyline that cant run the injectors or the afm or the turbo that I am putting on in a week or so. And if I were to keep the pfc and use it then I would lose the auto control anyway. Or I'd have to upgrade my ecu which would cost another grand on top of the pfc sale price. Then I'd have to mess around for a month driving here and there tuning it. Since I already have an auto trans that came attached to the rb30 I bought I will use that. Who cares about changing gears when you have more power than you can use? For me an auto is better at high power for street use. Just floor it and hold on with both hands.

Not true. The r at the end means ball bearing and no r means plain bearing. Big difference. gt35> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GT35-GT3582-TURBO-suits-T3-RX7-XR6-Skyline-WRX-EVO-/120680369224?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c191c4c48#ht_992wt_905 gt35r> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Garrett-GT35r-GT3582R-GT35-40R-T3-Turbo-Turbocharger-/250879617966?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a69972bae#ht_1938wt_905

I have set up my grandma driving to around15.5:1 up to 16.5:1 afr. Even when accelerating more than grandma would the afr is still around 15:1. Cruising is 16:1 give or take. 100kph cruise is stoich or 14.7:1 give or take 0.1. BUT!!! lol No but seriously now, when I give it a bootfull all that lean efficient grandma like tree hugging hippy driving afr goes out the window. At a quater throttle its around 13:1 till about 4 grand then down to 12:1 up from there. Same at half throttle. Three quater throttle sees about 12.5:1 till 4k then 12:1 after and full throttle is about the same except when it hits full boost at about 2200 to 2500 gear dependant it goes straight to 12:1. Cos the fuel tune isn't absolutely perfect it does dip to 11.6:1 when the vct changes at wot but then goes back to 12:1. To summarize under 4k rpm and low load is lean as f**k!!! And after 4k rpm and high load is 12:1. But all that bullshit aside keep it real lean and drive like you are on the dole to get good economy. Its just advice. It works for me.

Mate I mean this in the politest way possible. If you have to ask about swapping coil packs then you shouldn't be swinging spanners on your car. I say this because it is one of the simplest things to do on a skyline. If you open your bonnet then it would be plain as daylight to see what you have to do. If you have to be walked through it, you are going to need someone to check it afterwards to make sure its reassembled correctly. As far as splitfires go I wouldn't waste my money if the car was to remain stock. If you intend to make a crazy, scary, don't lend this car to your mates kind of skyline then do get them but until then don't waste money. The oem parts will do fine for a completely stock car. If you are in the Perth region I'll come over with my tools and show you how to do it. For free.

+1

Who said anything about buggering anything up? And if I had a spare $15k to throw at a skyline it would be the one I have not another one. But you can buy me one if you're that rich.

Pfft. Dont be scared mate. You can plug it in and do the 30 minute idle setup, the afm change and the injector change and then drive it to the tuners. Simple as that. All blokes here are saying is that you could hurt it if you flog it untuned. When you reset the pfc it still has a tune in it but it isn't optimal. It wont blow up driving it there as long as you don't floor it. And as for putting it on a truck and towing it there that is a bunch of bullshit. I've pm'd you my number to talk you through the afm and injector changes you need to make. It really is a piece of cake when you know what to do. EDIT: http://injector-rehab.com/shop/lag.html

I don't spose there is water in your fuel tank by any chance? Sometimes it is hard to pinpoint electrical issues, especially when it runs fine sometimes and crap others. Find someone with a skyline that will let you swap parts over to see what is wrong. Put all his good parts on and then swap yours back one at a time till it plays up and there's your culprit.

Sounds like you have the wrong oil in the box then or rooted oil. Mine is similar to your when its cold but when it warms up its better. My synchro's are a little worn. I would have thought rev matching it would help tho. It helps mine...

Exactly. First is for leaving the line. You shouldn't be changing into first until you are doing about 5kph.

f**ken oath. Some people are just f**ked. I tried to buy a turbo from a guy on here several months back and he simply just wouldn't post it. He kept asking me over and over if I had the money. f**ken dur, would I go shopping with no money? But then some people on here are good as gold. Like a young fella called Don (skyzthalimit) that sorted me out with a fuel pump, a z32 afm and a profec A boost controller. The pump and the z32 are still going strong and the boost controller was rooted. I called him up and he said "No worries man just come down and I'll refund your money". And he did. If I had to fly somewhere to get my shit back it would be a motec tune with anti-lag, traction control, flatshifting and individual cylinder correction. And I would run it on the dyno till it popped. Subscription in the mail.

You need auto control to control stuff like fluid pressure and when the trans shifts. Considering there aren't many wires coming from the gear box I daresay it would be fairly simple to get it to shift the way you want with a couple of resistor pots and switches or the like. I cant see it being too hard to get a signal from the ecu that would do the trick when used/modified correctly. But I've never done it so I could be digging for gold in a drop dunny.

It seems to me that we are comparing apples and oranges. I have stock turbo, suspension, rims and tyres that barely hold 200rwkw. Other blokes have different setups. Grip me up Scotty cos me tyres canna handle any more! Check out some of the jap guys. 335 semi slicks on a gtst. mmm grip

Pardon me while I get my shoe phone.

Haha maybe they are a bit cheap. They were $135 each. I think its the 2nd most nastiest rubber known to man. But seriously they hold better than the neutons that were on there before. Definitely not bald. I did mention that it is around 200rwkw.

I'd personally would do the computer first. It will make it better as is without swapping anything else. At the end of the day I wouldn't want to settle for what I could afford in terms of turbo setup. I'd just buy the good bits that contributed to the final result and keep saving till I could get there. Its a lot of money to spend in my opinion and should only be done once. But thats just me. Its only advice. In regard to tyres...I'm still running the stock turbo (only for another couple of weeks) and still have standard tyres. I can launch in 2nd and smoke it till 100kph. It will lose grip in second from a roll. It will spin if I dump it in 3rd at 100 but not for long. That is with only 190-200rwkw or so. I can only imagine what will happen with another 100 to 150 rwkw. Titan I'm curious and with all respect, how the hell do 235's hold on to a gt35r. Must be semi slicks. I did read your post. You did say gt35 tho not gt35r. Maybe thats it.

Ha yeah the mrs will drive it occasionally and auto's are quicker. I pretty much knew what I had to do in terms of the swap but wasn't sure about the comp for the auto. I'm running a pfc so that means no auto control. It would not bother me in the slightest tho if I had to shift the auto box from 1st up to drive like a manual. From the sound of it so far I will be waiting till I upgrade my ecu. Or till the clutch breaks or something like that. Thanks for the reply Elite Racing.