Room42

Very nice Oz. Its making me excited watching your build come together knowing that mine is just around the corner. Still haven't got the manifold yet. So the gate you chose is all good hey? That intake pipe looks sweet as too man.

Ok I did a search and found 167 results for 'manual to auto conversion'. The only thing is that I am looking for manual to auto and every thread I saw was about auto to manual. Anyway I have an rb30 auto in the shed and I want to make my r33 gtst an auto. Why you ask? Many reasons, one of them being ease of driving. Btw when I replaced my radiator the other week I replaced it with an auto one so I already have the heat exchanger in the radiator. I have the rb30 flex plate and torque convertor as well. I have replaced many a gearbox and will have no trouble swapping it over, providing that I wont get halfway and then go "f**k I have to pull it out again". So if you know a thread that has this covered then put up the link or lemme know if this is a viable option. Also it will be molesterated by a gt3582r so I want it to last longer than a day. Thanks in advance.

With a 6boost manifold, 50mm turbosmart wastegate and a garrett gt3582r it has set me back $3300. Oil and water kit was $80 and I still haven't got a dump (quoted $150 to $300) or cooler piping (at least another $100) or screamer pipe. There is already around $5000 of supporting mods to get it working right and the motor hasn't been opened yet. If you are set on a genuine garrett you will have to double or triple your budget to get a 'proper' setup that includes injectors, computer, tune, fuel pump, intercooler and exhaust to run a big turbo. And that is a minimum just to run it. You'll need some very decent tyres/wheels to hold the grip and a beasty clutch to hold the power too. A stock clutch will die out the arse and 225 tyres wont last as I'm sure you already know. For the budget it sounds like Hypergear will be the go for you. Well priced, easy to install and makes good power.

Yes that is a good point. There probably is a tune on it already. In the pfc faq you will find everything you need to set up the injectors and afm. Just read. Although pulling 5 degrees across the board would keep knock away I think it is a bit drastic. Some areas actually need 5 degrees added to them.

The ignition timing in the standard pfc (not tuned) is too much for 98 ron fuel. It will knock like hell. However it is not that hard to sort out and I'm sure you could fix it up with a bit of help. I have an ign map that you can put in and it will be fine. It works on my car with a stock turbo and I can run it up to and over 16psi without any significant knock. It has been proven on a dyno after I tuned it. However as your turbo will be putting out a lot more air than mine I would suggest that you pull 2 degrees on the temporary ign adjust and run it like that to guarantee no knock. Then when you know there is no knock leave it as is. Bear in mind that the temp ign adjustment will be reset every time you turn off the car. I can help you with the ignition timing but the fuel is not something that can be done over the phone or the internet. Luckily the power fc is rich as crap when untuned so you should be ok. BUT you have to get a wideband and check it BEFORE you flog it. Like it has been mentioned you car can go 'bang' very quickly if it runs lean and you are giving it shit for an extended period. You could break it in under a minute given the right conditions. To summarize, I'd repeat what Paul said. I'd also say put in the ign tune that I'll pm you (If you like) and then drive it to the tuner immediately to get it tuned. Cos the ign side will be mostly done, it will cost a lot less to get tuned. Read the pfc faq and make sure you set the idle up right. Hmmm...thats about it.

Mine did the same thing. Would work for a short while then wouldn't respond. It turned out to be a rooted usb port. I now use a different usb port and the problem hasn't returned.

Mate your posts speak for themselves. I don't need to insult you.

Mate you'd be pissed too if your car got hit by a truck. I reckon best policy is don't tailgate and your car will stay clean. Here comes the soot Back on topic r an r is gay. TP load limit will make you shit yourself when it happens. Had both and fixed them with a power fc

Hmmm...my plugs wouldn't foul for starters as when intercooler pipes have come unclamped it has run this rich and not fouled or stalled. Secondly I am a fit 6"1 92kg 31 year old man. Who was going to punch my head in again? Not many. As far as dickheads go I would say that driving so close to someones car that it is risking your rear bumper is being a dickhead. I had a f**king truck run into me in traffic a few weeks back cos he was driving like an idiot and tailgating me. I am not happy about tailgaters So imagine this...you are tailgating a white skyline, your car gets covered in soot cos you were being a dickhead and tailgating me. Then when you get out being all macho you see me get out. Then you either apologise and get back in your car or get knocked out. My patience is gone for that sort of shit. So if anyone gets any ideas then please get out of your car so I can release some frustration on you and your car.

Who in their right mind would work for $19 an hour if they were a qualified mechanic? You get paid more packing shelves at the local supermarket.

Maybe where you come from pal. In Australia being a mechanic means not only can you drive but you get paid $30 an hour upwards. http://www.seek.com.au/Job/heavy-vehicle-diesel-mechanic-wa/in/perth-perth/20651329

That is a very good reason to keep the stock ecu. Our maybe next time one of these idiot perth drivers tailgates me I'll just richen it up to 9 to one while I'm driving. And plant it. Thanks for the good idea.

I searched and this is what happened. Your search for the term rich and retard returned 627 results

True true.

If you are going to build an engine then you should check everything, not just the stuff that you put together. Its your motor and you are responsible. You cant trust that someone will put it together right unless they build the whole thing and warranty their work. It happened to someone I know recently. The machinist ground the crank and supplied bearings and said it would be fine to put it together as supplied without checking. He did and it lasted less than a week before it needed pulling down. The bearings were scratched. From this thread it sounds like you probably know enough about what to check when putting an engine together. At the end of the day whether or not the engine was done right and from the thread it's likely it was, it sounds like the new cast pistons weren't up to it. The bunch of stuff to check is available in a car or engine building manual. I'm not having a go mate but why didn't you spend the extra $500-$700 and get forged pistons?

To summarize you used cast pistons and they broke. You didn't check a bunch of stuff that engine builders check. Lesson learned. Use forged pistons next time. Make sure you know what to check and NEVER take anyones word on clearances.

Are you sure that is how it logs? Why would the power fc tell the injectors to spray bugger all fuel at the start of cranking then more after it starts once I added a larger ms time? It 'should' be telling the injectors to open for 'x' amount of time immediately. If the injectors aren't doing what the pfc or in Hanaldo's case nistune, then it seems that the injectors are crap. What is your take on the whole hot start thing Lithium?

True aye? Mine were only $550 delivered. They were refurbished tho so had been used before.

I ran a chart for inj duty cycle with my datalogit when I was cranking. No matter what I did the injectors opened slowly from 0 rpm to idle. Even adding more cranking ms there was a spike after it started but still had the same initial slope. The injectors are definitely not working according to the tune at cranking rpm. Maybe that is what you get for buying cheap injectors?

Yep try it. That will rule out the fuel reg. I spoke to a bloke the other day and he reckoned that with bigger injectors, when you try to start the car they dont actually open for long enough to let fuel out. But both our cars start fine when cold and not when hot. Where are the common links here? I'm going to try crimping the fuel line tomorrow and see if that helps.

Gotta read them long boring posts otherwise you wont know what people are on about. It was my car that I tried 35 ms. Hanaldo's ms figures are at 8 and 10. We have tried pulling fuel out and adding fuel. Hanaldo don't even think about paying to get it looked at. We will get it worked out.

On the subject of new ideas... We all love the toyota prius now don't we blokes?! We all love formula one too. Both the prius and f1 cars use braking energy and convert it into acceleration energy. Here is my idea. If we swapped our braking system with "air compressor brakes" then we could pump up an air tank and use the gas to spool the turbo quicker. I'm sure there would be easier ways to pump up a tank to help spool the turbo but why not use braking energy. It gets wasted anyway...

Timing going back to zero sounds like tps and/or afm reading wrong. Research, sus it out, clean, check, blah blah blah.

Sounds like an old ladies party. Lots of 'punch'.