Room42

Hahahaha I saw a purple/blue skyline getting fuel at the united this afternoon.

That don't help me none. RB25det.

I bought it from the same BP servo for months in a row till I found the United. I buy from the same servo for consistency. Where do you get yours from usually? I'm due to fill up in a couple of days and I'll give it a try for comparisons sake. I don't care about the price difference. It only adds up to $5 a tank anyway.

A 95 tune would be the go. Even a 91 tune. I've run my car on 98, 95 and 91. Sure there are big timing differences in the tunes but on the road it doesn't feel a lot different. Yes you can feel the difference but it makes bugger all difference for driving around

Mate I'm in Perth. I've bought fuel from BP on Orrong road and that is the shit that knocks to 45. I now go to the United also on Orrong road and it knocks around 15 to 20. BP is not better according to my power fc. Try it mate and see the difference for yourself.

BP fuel is crap. BP 98 knocks almost as much as Shell 95. United 98 all the way.

Did you put the wrong fuel in? Some servo's idea of premium is 95 ron.

Mate ya still asking about these intercoolers, this is the 3rd thread so far. To answer your question for this thread, compared to a straight piece of pipe they are good. Stop being a tight arse and get a front mount. If you can afford to own and drive a skyline you can afford a front mount setup. If you are looking at a intercooler upgrade that means you floor it sometimes and that means front mount. Now go buy one. NOW!!!

I always buy United 98 ron. The reason for this is simple. At WOT, my car knocks around 15 with United 98 and 45 with BP 98. The choice for me was clear. Also United is about 7-10 cents a litre cheaper here in Perth. Mate in your case you really should get your tune checked cos different fuels have a huge difference on a car that is tuned close to "the edge" as my example shows above. I've pulled 5 degrees, run 91 octane and the car still goes good

I was going to buy the turbo. I rang and arranged it and you still hadn't posted it 5 days later. Mate if you want to sell it then you gotta post it.

Dyno time would be alright. A dyno is a lot safer for tuning, ya can only legally floor it in second before the speed limit. Here is a quick run I did before the wideband and datalogit. I cant get a new one to upload for some reason. Its about 14 psi dropping to 12ish. The shift light is set to 6500 rpm. When I checked the afrs from the tune in the video it was real low, about 9.8 to 10 ish. It's leaner now and going a lot better but bear in mind its a stock turbo so it is what it is. Oh I forgot to mention in the opening post that the exhaust is done too. I'll try get a new vid uploaded soon. http://www.youtube.c...h?v=zvhEyMZNIs8

For starters I've tuned 600 hp na 5L engines with motec and autronic. Example of the missus and me tuning; I say watch the knock and tell me when it starts to go up. She says ok. I floor it and when and if it starts to go over about 20 she says so and I back off and see what rpm it was and adjust timing by 1 or 2 degrees. If there is no knock then 1 degree gets added to the whole line. FYI My missus is a qualified teacher and is smarter than 94% of people out there according to her uni results. I reckon I'm doing pretty good for tuning . I'll make a quick clip this afternoon and post it on youtube and link it here so doubters can see. and post a pic of the max knock and afr lol. No luck here, only years of XP

I would but she ain't that silly. I constantly teach her about cars even when she's not listening and she is quite aware of what the gt35r will do. She was scared to drive a pulsar et turbo I used to have with a t25g on it. Plus she has a hyundai accent. Needless to say it is slow as shit. Anyway gotta head, work early and all that bizzo. Cheers for the ears and chat.

Haha We are pretty safe on all fronts really. She only does changes to the tune that I tell her to do so that's all good there. Also she doesn't like driving the skyline much. Its not comfortable enough for her. And I cant get her to floor it, not that I really blame her.

Cool sounds good. Yep I'm tuning with the missus in the passenger seat keeping an eye on things while I drive and give her directions regarding the tune. The dump doesn't matter cos a mate at work will do it for a few the sphincter of the universes on the weekend. I was pretty much going to do it but just needed a couple more opinions for the affirmative.

So its like this...I have a bunch of bits on my r33gtst. Z32 afm, power fc, datalogit, wideband stuff, 900cc injectors, big ass frontmount, hd clutch, beasty fuel pump, stock turbo at 14 psi. So the next bit for power is the turbo eh?! Anyway later this year I'm getting a tough rb25/30 built (forged rods and pistons and bunch of other crap). I'm looking at getting a gt3582r for the new motor and the question is this (drumroll) Should I wait till the rb30 arrives or should I get the gt3582r setup now?? Reason I ask is I really want more power now without being scared of the stocker shitting itself but I can wait if I have to. I dont want to buy a smaller turbo that suits the 25 when I'll just have to buy another one for the 30 in less than 12 months. Any ideas appreciated.

Firstly everything is soldered but I found one thing wrong with it. The usb connection in the laptop was a bit rooted so I started using a different port and it is alright now. Sometimes the car takes too long to crank. It did seem to start better with the datalogit unplugged and also seemed better with the hand controller unplugged from the datalogit. Still... I've left the cranking ms the same as stock. I spose I should give it about 60% less ms to make it the same amount of fuel as the stock injectors. (Old=370cc and new=900cc) That wouldn't be taken into account when you set up the injectors would it??? Well I'm taking the commodore to work tomorrow so I'll play with the r33 after work and see how I get on. I'm already wayyy past my petrol budget this week for the skyline! oh here's a laugh... I put my foot on the brake and floored it when I was in second gear to check the afr under load. The car started linelocking at 60-70 kph. The missus wasn't real happy

I got the wideband talking to the datalogit before. I got a real afr map and made a change to the fuel map and had progress. Its just a matter of time and driving up the road and back till its perfecto. One thing tho... a couple of times the datalogit has stopped responding and I have had to unplug it from my pc and reopen the program etc. Also when it is doing this the car wont start. It cranks and fires a bit and runs to 500 rpm then dies. A couple of times it has started with difficulty. I unplugged the datalogit from the power fc and the car started fine. Anyone seen this before? It only seems to do it when its not at operating temp completely and high revs.

I bought a wideband controller and gauge the other day and it has a bosch 5 wire sensor but it doesn't say what type. It takes about ten seconds to warm up.

I got my datalogit yesterday and lo and behold the serial connection cable that came with it has the same fitting as the serial port on my toshiba sattelite. But the serial to usb convertor got it working alright.

Soot on the afm mesh.

Thanks mate that's gold. It'll give me something to think about. I put in 3 different blocks of afr's in the fuel map this evening and tuned it via the low and high load water temp correction. I did the idle with the inj map. Maybe I'm doing it wrong??? but it seems to be working so far. Got 14.7 at idle, 16 light 13 medium and 11.5 high load. It went better at 11.5 than 12.

Insurance for sure. I would watch my knock levels get unacceptable after a few short bursts with the sidemount. The engine gets cold air now when before it wasn't. Also the bigger core is less restrictive.The boost gauge showed 2 more psi at the manifold after the swap. As stated not so much of a gain but stacks more safety. And for what its worth it looks better

Yeah the wideband has two programmable outs. One for the gauge and one for whatever else. They are both analogue. They can be setup to work on diesel, methanol etc. At the moment there is one going to the gauge that is from 0 to 5 volts and one going to the pfc that is emulating a narrow band. I guess this is necessary for the pfc O2 feedback. It actually works too, keeping it at 14.7 give or take. I spose I can just disconnect the gauge and run that into the datalogit. The missus is getting pretty good at being a tuning co pilot Between the wideband and the datalogit I have about 300 pages of pdf to read so I'll get into it and see how I get on Oh the sensor is in the stock location btw.

Yeah that's what I was referring to. I guess I can extrapolate a halfway decent fuel map by using it anyway. Any thoughts on what is a good afr for light loads and a good one for medium? After playing around today for half an hour I've got it at around 15.5 light, 13.5 medium and 11.5ish heavy. It starts surging at about 16.5 light but 15.5 seems ok. Also I read that the datalogit can read the afr from the wideband to log it. How good does this feature work and how accurate is it given that the previously discussed map values are only approximate?