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I've heard the only thing that's different is the sump, but I've heard from numerous people the bolt up pattern is different and they arnt interchangeable? I'll know by the weekend weather I'll be going rebuild or 25. Either way I'll do a build thread up to my 250 awkw target Cheers

Cars not going to be tracked. And white gtt, im not getting a new block (as yet anyway) I want the 20 and I'm going rebuild. If I can't get help from the engine builder, il go 25 neo stagea.

Get an aftermarket pressure gauge now. Do an oil flush with good oil no cheap shit. If u still have problems, get the oil pump checked, my rb20 gts4 did the EXACT same thing (only just bought it) and I thought it was dodgy gauge, till light came on and I knew I was f**ked. Now I'm up for a rebuild.

I sent nistune an email (they're in Adelaide) and I got the price down to $250 installed and laptop tune. I even took a photo of the email to prove it. Anyone who's paying $1100 for a chip is insane. My 2c

It's funny you mention that spool site, I was on it today at lunch, looks good, the thing is, while it's apart I might as well go all out, get it all done right while it's out and apart. But yeh, once it's apart il get the builder to sus how everything looks, if it all looks a bit tired, il go all out and get that forged package from spool. If not, il just do the bearings and n1 pump. Is there anything that should be filed/ die grinded/ dremeled/ polished off before it all goes back together? I wouldn't mind getting the cast marks on the head cleaned up, but is there any other bits we should do while were there?

Yeh true, when they take the 20 out I'll get them to have a look and Suss the damage, if it'll be cheaper to rebuild, I will, if a new motor will be cheaper il do that.

I see where ur coming from, but He's not building me a 9 second 9000 rpm 500kw drag car. He's taking apart my motor, putting in new bearings, and n1 pump, no custom work,, no stroking etc etc, he may not be a skyline builder but I'm not after amazing results. If he has any questions it's not hard to ring up an rb builder and ask about clearances etc. I'm after a fresh, new, reliable, cheap engine, if it comes back driving the same as it was before it went I'd be happy as Larry. 25 would be great but I've been f**ked over with second hand motors before, and don't really like the idea of having two f**ked engines in 6 mOnths time. I have however got quotes on low km rb25 stagea neo's (2500 with turbo, loom, ecu) but there's still more parts I'd need for the conversion. It'd end up being just shy of 4k, so leaves the rebuild being the cheaper, simpler (if it's just a case of acl bearings, light machine/ polish + n1 pump) I'll do more research and keep posting, when I've decided which way I'll go I'll do a build thread.

I'm still unsure which way I want to go, at the moment, price is the issue. I would love a 25 but if rebuilding the 20 is cheaper I'll do that. Has anyone rebuilt a 20 (thats stopped for the same reason mine did) that can give me a rough rebuild estimate?

But who's to say I buy a motor with 'only 96000 ks on clock' and it turns out to be a shitter? Surely if the labour is cheap/free a strong 20 would be worth the piece of mind? A 25 will set me back around 2.5 and that's no labour.

After some more research I've decided to rebuild my 20 for the following reasons; I only have about 3k to spend, I would rather build an engine and drive a freshie rather than one that I have no idea about k's etc, My engine still starts, which has left me thinking all I need is a new oil pump with collar mod and acl race bearings. I have a friend who builds race v8's and might be able to get him to help me built this on a budget. Overall power is now less important than cost and reliability. Rb20 with, Acl race bearings, Nismo oil pump with collar mod, Forged pistons (brands?) Arp head studs, Tiny head port and polish, (cast clean up really) And then a gd quality gasket kit. This should give me a nice, reliable motor (forged pistons dependent on cost) and with a nistune and my r33 bb highflow, 3" turbo de-catted back, pod/ cai/ 3" cooler pipe on my big cooler, apexi avcr boost controller, forward facing intake, (injectors depending on maxing or not) Bosch 400hp pump, splitfire coils, z32 on 17 psi should make atleast 250awkw, right?

Am thinking rb25 neo, is this the one from stagea? How complicated is installation? Rb25 block = 2-3k yes? Ballpark figure? So I'd be looking at about a 4k job. f**k sake.....

Will it be difficult finding one to suit my gtst-4 tho? Wouldn't rb26 be simpler, despite the higher price? Or should I just use the money to rebuild the rb20 and make it more reliable? Arrgghh so many choices, but yes, I'm after the cheapest, most reliable way of getting 250 awkw. Yes awkw. Inputs appreciated!

If I were to swap motors I might as well go rb26. Yes? I'm after a reliable (most important for me) 250kw at 4 wheels. Are rb25 stages neo's easy to find? Average pricefixit 26/25? 25 = 2k. 26= 3/4k yeh?

I'd love an rb26, but are they straight bolt in? And yeh, I had no idea where to put it. Are bearings expensive? What oil pump should I go? Or should I just scrap it and buy a 26? Cheers

hi, ive heard that the gtst-4 rb20's are 'not like the others' in sense that i cannot just go out and get a regular rb20 from an r32 and slap her in.... the gtst4 one is off a stagea, correct? My budget isnt huge, but im after reliability over anything else, im thinking rb25? Will r32 rb26 be a straight bolt in? How difficult will a stagea rb25 converison be? or should i just rebuild my rb20 with a good oil pump, and race bearings? what would you do in my situation!?!? thanks

*** sorry, wrong thread! Was using iphone while severly pissed off at the time (car stalled in major intersection during peak hour) however still need help!

i wrote this on the side of the road with my iphone, now for some details; 1989 r32 gtst4 rb20, minor mods, r33 highflowed bb turbo, pod, big fmic, 3", 15psi, 110,000kms on clock, etc the engine is still holding oil. i wasnt thrashing it at the time of failure, however just before (10 seconds before) the car stalled there was a knocking/clicking noise. i let the car sit for a while, and then cranked it, it started and ran rough, but held idle (lumpy as f**k, from 500-800rpm) i turned the car off after 5 seconds of ideling. Car was towed home. my question is, what is the worst case scenario? main bearing failure + pump gone? The engine isnt seized and started, which is a good sign right? What would be the best way to go when it comes time to spend some dough (dont say drop in rb25) i was thinking along the lines of ACL race bearings, and then rb25 crank and rods? (RB24?) or am i getting ahead of myself and should just go for a good high flow oil pump and race bearings? Which brings me to my next question what oil pump should i go? i know there are some good ones out there (tomei 3-4k) but should i go nismo etc? im in the habit of when something breaks, not replacing it, upgrading it. PLEASE HELP! thanks

I know it's bad. No leaking oil, no oil cooler. Light came on, I babied the car for 5k's and stalled. Can anyone help me out with anything? New to rb's coming from rotary background. Cheers

Help! Rb20 r32 gtst4 oil light came on, babied it home (short trip, then stalled) heard this is a usual problem, any ideas?! I'm in Adelaide, who's a gd rb builder? Cheers

As title says, i need urgent help on my 1989 skyline r32 gtst4 02 sensor wiring. red, white, black - which ones are which? Guessing black = neg, and white = pos, but need to be 100% red is signal wire. thanks!

pm sent about cluster surround

hey mate, im still keen on the bellmouth dump, PM sent, cheers, Josh.

i need an oil filter relocation kit. 1) if you have one, what do you have? 2) i want an oil cooler too, any good kits available? 3) - thread size on this kit = 20mm X 1.5 ...... will this fit? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Trans-Dapt-Perf-Remote-Oil-Filter-Relocation-Kit-1158-/190557457725?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5e1c0d3d thank you!

as written above, one hose going from valve covers, to catch can, the other hose going from catch can to intake pipe. I can weld on a fitting at the bottom of the catch can to allow for the return, but i have no idea where to get the dip stick return things..... any problems with oil pressure?

thankyou for your help! yeh, ive heard that you can use your dipstick as a return, but i tried this and my problem was the catch can was under vaccuum, so when i connected it to the dip stick pipe the can had no where to breathe and made the engine give this horrible squeek (sounded bad so i disconnected it straight away) so now im thinking make a drain at the bottom of the can go to dip stick pipe. then have the hose taken off the rubber intake pipe and put onto the catch can. then have another hose going from the other inlet/outlet to the intake pipe for breathing (vaccuum release) but as you said, ill be essentially venting my oil system to atmosphere, so i dont know how that will go with oil pressure..... im going to take my dip stick out and start the car and watch the pressure etc, if it sits on 0 theres obviously a problem. But after some research ( my skyline gauge usually reads 4kg cm2 which = 30-40psi or something similar, cant remember exactly) if the dipstick is pressurised to that amount why doesnt it pop off? its only sitting there!? all i can think of is theres some sort of one way valve that as soon as the oil system builds pressure, it blocks entry to the oil system via the dip stick.... this would be ok because it would mean as soon as you turn your car off the oil will drain back, and even in 6-7-8 hours of continous driving (eg long trips) id be confident in saying theres no way my car would fill the can (500ml) + the dip stick pipe. hope im making sense.....? replies would be great! (maybe mods - mechanics out there?)