s213b

Engine would live longer on 300kw on e85 vs 98 though. Cooler burning temp, less detonation, more timing etc etc

I wouldn't use that turbo / wastegate / manifold if I was given it for free. Last thing you want is to scrap a healthy motor because you ate an impeller from your Jackie chan turbo. 300kw on budget = Std intake & exh manifolds std cams Fmic 3" exh Z32 afm 3076 turbo internal gate with good ebc. E85 with 1000cc injectors + walbro 400lph pump Then what ever ecu your tuner preferres.

*sorry - double post

Have you got that engine loom mate? What about coil packs? Please pm me if so Cheers

Have you got that engine loom mate? Please pm me if so Cheers

^+1

Take the advice on the thread. Some people on this thread need to remember they were a teen (unsure of your age, but im guessing) and werent all-knowing once too. We all start somewhere. It's not an attack on you, but these 'what turbo can I use' questions pop up every few months, I'm sure for the people answering them it isn't the first time. Hence the snappy answers. + eBay is a swear word on here. I was asking the same question a few years ago, and was in your shoes. Here are your options if your after under 250kw's (or stock power) 1) Std turbo replacement (either gd second hand r33 or r34 turbo. Will be $200-350 depending on condish 2) buy a high flow or get your turbo high flowed. Will allow for a solid 220-240 kw with supporting mods. 2nd hand high flow = usually around $700-800 again- depending on condition. RELIABLY this option will require either a piggy back ecu (works with your std ecu to allow easier tune ability OR one of Toshis remaps OR a Nistune as a minimum. ) Air flow meter, coil packs, and a dyno tune are ESSENTIAL once you start playing with boost. Take this advice or bolt on your eBay turbo and enjoy the time bomb. Instead of blowing a turbo when the budget is tight you'll blow a motor when your flat broke. Your choice. My 2c

What boost are you on? Misfire under load can also be ecu's boost cut. Flames are normal on std rb's with upped boost and free flowing exhausts. I'd replace & gap plugs to 0.8 and go from there.

Why would you go that way? a mines chipped Stagea ecu came with my motor, wouldn't it be better to use that & retain vct rather than spend more money on a nistune and loose vct?

Either way I need to buy a Stagea s1 engine loom. Whether or not it needs to be spliced ill figure out when it's in my hot little hands. Apparently should just plug in to my s1 stag ecu. But who knows, either way I need a loom ASAP cheers

Still have Engine loom? Pm sent Cheers

Found this old thread and decided to dig it up. Cars still off the road, But has the following: Rb25 from s1 stagea, pulled appart, crack tested, acid dipped, bored & honed. Weisco forged pistons .5mm o/s Tomei poncams Tomei valve springs Acl race series bearings (full set) Arp head stud kit Cometic 1.01mm head gasket + new oem gasket kit + porting etc. All from www.rawbrokerage.com parts were cheaper than my engine builder could get in, very happy with their service. Motors ready to go, now I'm sorting out my loom options, and once it's running will be coupled with ext gate gtx3076, e85 and 20-22psi. Aiming for 300-350awkw. So much for 250 awkw haha! Build thread coming soon Cheers for everyone's help, took me a while to wake up to the 25, the 20 can be a paperweight.

Ithe ecu I have is a stagea one to suit the engine. Do I need to splice looms between stagea and original rb20?

Just spent 2 days reading this whole thread (hiding at work haha) general concensus seems good for the money. At the end of the day it's stronger than a china manifold, but cheaper than a 6boost. As long as they fit + hold together + hold boost their a winner in my book. I couldn't care less about pretty welds if they do what their supposed to - but that's just me. Pm sent

From what I've gathered, you need to pretty much double your injectors for an e85 build. If your turbo is in that range and you've got a decent tuner 300rwkw on e85 should be a breeze. I'm currently pricing up an e85 build on my rb25, aiming for 400-450awhp and have been told I'll need a big fcker of a pump and 1000cc injectors. My guess is should be ok with upped fuel pressure Hope that helps

Just read the whole thread, sounds like an impressive build. I've got a fresh forged + camed 25 waiting to go in my 32, Gtx3076 + ext gate + 20-22psi on e85 seems a good way to go in your experience? I'm still tossing between 76 & 71..

I'm unsure what's the same on my rb20 so I don't know what to 'modify' to fit the 25? Any help appreciated. Cheers

I'll take the forward facing intake + throttle body. Text 0433046838

Anyone!?

Hi, I'll keep it simple, CAR: 89 r32 gts4 (manual) ENGINE: 95-97 stagea Rb25det (same/similar to s2 r33 rb25 I'm told) Does anyone know if i can I get away with a s2 r33 engine wiring loom? Or do I need specifically a 95-97 stagea loom? First time rb conversion-ist so any help appreciated! Many thanks Pm or Text 0433046838

Hi, I'll keep it simple, CAR: 89 r32 gts4 (manual) ENGINE: 95-97 stagea Rb25det (same/similar to s2 r33 rb25 I'm told) Can I get away with a s2 r33 engine wiring loom? Or do I need specifically a 95-97 stagea loom? First time rb conversion-ist so any help appreciated! Many thanks Pm or Text 0433046838

I've seen the deatschwerks pumps, but why go that over a walbro? And I've been told by a few people I need new lines, and then by a few I don't... Hmmmm Yeah at the moment I'm leaning towards just going id1000's

Thanks, 34 but I don't think I'd be able to get my head around that haha.

I swear last time I was looking at forged pistons I found kits for $600-$700, but now all I can find are ones around 1k.. I'm pretty much just going to do a basic rebuild, but with acl race bearings & forged pistons. Don't really want rods etc as I'm not after anything over 300kw. Anyone know anywhere selling Ross/cp/arias pistons & rings for under $1000?

Yeah, cams are a definite, and I've bitten the bullet & gone forged (now on the hunt for Ross forgies) & will up the boost to hopefully pull the numbers Cheers