beemae30

I think they frown apon it. As it only helps you in the long wrong if your not at fault and the other side tries to get out of it.

Nice work mate and good luck with it.

Ah well I'm just pissed I picked the weekend to go get mine on the same as the cruise

Hey lads another 32 here from the ville. Drove her up from Brissy easter weekend. Pm me im always up for a cruise or to give a helping hand. Diesel fitter by trade so got some handy tools

hahaha yeah hindsights a bitch aint it cheers for the help have to sort out another airlie cruise now i got my 32

Ok guys it did it again twice tonight. Once on and off heavy throttle gear change and again on a smooth 4th gear boost pull. It's definitly fuel related as it doesnt back fire or miss etc. It just fully cuts out then comes back in just as quick. Also whats everyones charging volts. With lights/ac/ stereo at night im pulling 13.2v which sounds pretty good.

Jesus christ that hose better be able to handle 150 psi. We sell 10mm hyd hose rated to 2500 psi for 60 a meter. Lol

Hey Cal were did you get that from? I'm guessing autobarn or the like?

Mate best bet is to pull them all off take them to a hose shop and go i need one of each

Throttle Position sensor. It will be on your throttle body.

yeah it definitly went to limp mode wouldnt get above 2500rpm without hardcore jerking/sputtering/missfiring etc. Even with gentle throttle application so no boost would happen. Im thinking it's because its never been cleaned it was absolutly fithly and so was the pod filter that was on it. The previous owner did f**k all maintence. Will do the aac valve this weekend. and the starter motor is fine its not a drama with cranking its once its running it sputters and farts around for about 3 seconds till it picks up to cold idle which is around 1200rpm. Cas has been replaced with a mitsubishi unit?? So its been replaced as well. Its been good the last few days so i don't know im just gonna do a full maintence oils,spark plugs, coil packs, new cas, new afm, clean the aac or possibly replace. See how it goes from there

Do you think the shit tune could cause the starting issue?

Standard ecu with a remap *according to the Previous owner.

Insulated the A/c lines as some of the conduit had fallen off. Definetly tidies up the engine bay not having a charcoal canister

Yes very true buy a 20+ yr old car is gonna have a few hidden secrets haha. Good luck with it ! Can't wait to see the finished product

revolution anyone? i have a pitch fork....

jesus mate. Going at it for sure. I would've turfed it and gotten another shell by now. More the credit to ya mate.

Played with her a bit today. Got rid of the carbon canister and fitted a antenna adapter so i can finally listen to the radio.

f**k that'd be sweet. You could have it set up in your dash to look oem someone do it!

revolution time? I have a pitch fork....

Hey guys, Few little issues that are nigglying me with my 32. Searched and havent found much thats revelant to me. Car has following mods 160,000kms 550cc injectors *previous owner reckons they are and looking at them (red top denso's) hks pod filter, cooling pro front mount, walbro fuel pump * previous owner, immobilizer, greddy turbo timer, stock everything else Issue number 1 im having is it takes a good 5 seconds to start on a cold morning and when it starts it runs rough for a few seconds till it goes to cold idle. I believe it could be the battery? its some crappy 270cca super cheap auto jobby, Ive also noticed the idle sits at 900 when warm with a/c on. Seems a little high to me. The car also has dropped into limp home mode randomly and then randomly pulled itself together which seems to have gone away since i cleaned, dielectric greased the afm, and cleaned the pod/re-oil. But it still occasionally will bog after a boost hit gear change. i believe this is the Cheap GFB bov. It's plumb back and im pretty sure its leaking. The car also had a shitload of boost leaks which would have caused the limp home mode to occour. Issue number 2 is hicas issue i think. When i go from stand still to full noise aggresivly the neutral of my steering wheel changes from about 5" east to about 45" then after about 1 hour of driving it will return to 5" east or if i turn it off it will return to neutral. I'm thinking the speed sensitivity is playing havic with the hicas solenoid.

If there is scraping on the valve stems. There is a mechanical fault. Either not enogh lube on the valve stems for start up, Valve guides not lined up/ pressed incorrectly. Or possibly incorrect valve adjustment.

Because you haven't removed it yet!

A= Do everything sinista said. B= Never idle a brand new engine. As soon as it has started rotate the engine speed till it is warm and then work its ring out. I know many people don't beleive this method but i have used it on 5000hp plus diesel engines worth millions and works perfectly. Ive also used it on every small engine i have built same result. As elite said the turbo would not return back into the ports unless the engine was working which you said it was not. You wont know till you pull the head or do a boroscope to the engine. There is a high possibility of a faulty assembly. I.e. Not enough lube on the valve stems, Incorrect valve guide install, contaiminets left in the manifold, head, cylinder, I have seen small filings go through an engine then take out the turbo before on very rare occasions.

use it