RiverSide

IF the compliance is available for the later model minis (i have never even thought about it myself so i really don't know thw availability) it WILL be a hell of a lot more expensive. Your best bet would be to find an 89 model and have the approval etc sorted before you leave.......that way you can get the car on the boat a week or so before you leave and get back here before it arrives. That will save FOB costs.

Not a massive fan of the doors..........And simply disapointed with it being a slushbox auto. Looks like a clean ass car though.

The spoiler sits just behind the lower part of your front bar.....however they often seize up from not being used (I had one that only one side went down)......my suggestion is to remove it.....they do nothing and they are DAMN heavy!!! As far as compliance is concerned.......I would suggest speaking directy to your engineer as he/she will be able to ACCURATELY inform you of the ruling and guidlines to follow. DO NOT rely on the info in the DIY thread alone as different states require different things (eg: some states you are able to retain the Jap belts others you can't) Good luck, hope you have alot of fun in your new car.

There are aftermarket tie rod ends available from Japan (unsure if anyone local makes them).............I had IKEYA items on one of my cars........did the job well and look pretty too!!!

Is your compressor still "engaging"? It may be a faulty ambient temp sensor. That what it was in one of mine.

I believe the motor you need is the same as the motor in the aussie delivered A32 Maxima.......take the motor down to Nissan and they should be able to match the part for you. May be costly however.,

I have had both M spec and NON m spec 1989 R32's and they have ALL had climate control. I would assume the old sliders were few and far between.

if the compressor has seized it is quite possible that it will stop the engine running........ Try removing the air con belt........then switch the air con ON and if it still makes the engine die...it is electrical.........if it runs fine........then the compressor is stuffed.

Avoid the cheap pods......as they are not designed for forced induction vehicles (even says it on the box) they have a circlip on the inside that can AND WILL be sucked into your turbo.

I have always had my supplier forward de-reg papers to me........at least that way they have one less reason to knock back the application. So far so good

Condition of the recaro is brilliant........not tears and bolstering is in good condition. It could do with a minor clean (as most seats do) For further enquiries please contact me on 0402 807 417. as far as price is concerned.........cash in my hand works wonders

There are plenty of them available in Factory manual provided you take the time to look. I have had a few of them, dave is right in saying that there is very little difference, if done well

I would not suggest doing that.........either get different wheels or RAISE THE CAR.

I found the same thing......I would suggest having one of someone drive beside you at a few different speeds in their new or near new vehicle with stock wheels and tyres (their speedo should be accurate) and just figure out the reading on your speedo and allow for the difference. I would be very wary having your commander sitting in your car all the time, it will let theives know what you have in your car and drunk friends might mess with your settings whilst you are paying for fuel etc.

I am a little confused about this.........I have a commader from my PFC for (RB20det)....and the number on the back is as follows : FCC3 020- 00536 Would that be the one you are after? If so let me know.

What is the difference between GTR and GTST? I have an R33 radiator that is TWO row.....in mint condition. No idea if it is GTR or GTST...... You can have it for $100........I am on the Gold Coast so nice and easy to pick up too. 0402 807 417 if you are interested

If you are worried bout the different numbers.......I would imagine it wouldnot be any issue, as you simply notify the dept of transport that you have changed the engine.

I have a silver 2 door gtst.....but it is AUTO.......conversion does not cost too much though

If it has not been complied to ADR's the safety cert. should NOT have been issued. Compliance for a 15yr vehicles should only cost up to about $1500. Provided the seller can provide you with an import approval....even if compliance has not yet been carried out. If seller can not supply appropriate paperwork just walk away.

Dave..........To avoid what happened with your car....I had all the gear sent "care of master" to avoid theft. It got through customs etc........but when i went to pick it up, some prick had simply walked into the office where they are stored and pinched it...... Bastards. Nark.........they are AVS model 6 alloys i believe

When would you expet a RB20det to get full boost with such a turbo? 4000-4500rpm?

ALL 15yr+ imports require approval for import from Canberra. 1988 model vehiclesretain the original japanese VIN number, however 1989 model vehicles will have a new one issued. The new number will generally be the same as the Jap one but with 6U900000 attached to the front of it. In this case a new vin plate is required to be fitted to the vehicle. (just something made at local engravers and riveted above the original. I am not 100% familiar with VIC rulings. But in Qld the vehicle will require a mod plate to show that LO1 compliance has been carried out. (for ALL 15+ imports) Hope that helps you out. Perhaps if I have misunderstood, this will enable you to decifer if you need a VIN plate or a mod plate.

Information on those little black boxes is in this forum somewhere........they are apparently the same as the boxes in the loacal A32 Maxima's.

Good to hear you are happy with it Slain.........by the way......from memory there are some aftermarket castor rods under there too.

I have a track PIG Laurel, currently under construction. Won't be anywhere near as pretty as the cefiro........but that is the whole point....I want something i can give a good thrashing without worrying too much if i run off the track onto the dirt etc.