sonicii

+1 to the above.. I installed one of the kits Leon supplied a few years back and it has been excellent. The ability to make adjustments to gain and sensitivity make it much better than factory cruise control units I have used in the past! The clutch switch for the manual was an easy add-on.

Assuming you are talking all V36 sedans here?? If so, I would probably buy a 350GT, mainly because a late V36 350GT can be had for a much better price than an early V36 370GT sedan. But if money was not a barrier, I would go for a 2010+ V36 370GT.

Since a G37 IS a V36, I would be very surprises if they didn't.

I'm sure I posted a link in this thread to the Nissan Japan webpage, which will tell you what features are premium and what are options. Don't have time to search right now. Edit- here it ishttp://translate.google.com/translate?prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fhistory.nissan.co.jp%2FSKYLINE%2FV35%2F0411%2FGRADE%2Fmain6.html&sl=ja&tl=en&history_state0=

.. I doubt it all the time!

None!!. The CVT was only an option on the series 1 sedans. 2001-2004. Titiled 350GT-8. There were no CVT coupes.

That was quick.. did you get your asking price? (if you don't mind saying). Would be good to get a ballpark of what my Series2 manual sedan is worth on the private sales market.

If you are paying that much for a door lock mechanisms, or window motors, you need a new supplier of parts! A quick google search will show you can get a genuine item for far less. As mentioned, a figure of round $2-300 is normal.. If you buy from an Australian Nissan dealer, you will pay 4 times the price and wait about 10 times longer for it.

Pick any 10+ year old car and you will have stories of people who have never had a problem, and stories from people who keep sinking money into fixing things.. sounds like your friend is a member of the latter group. Most owners fall somewhere in between, fixing minor things from time to time when needed, but generally not spending the large figures you mentioned each time.

I think your 'someone who has a large and detailed knowledge of these cars', doesn't really.. Door locks and window motors can go on the early models.. nowhere near '$1k-3k' to fix unless you want to replace all of them at once. Never heard of common AC problems.. auto is only an issue if you pick the CVT on the early model sedans. compression rod bushes and lower control arm bushes can go, again nowhere near $1-3k to fix.. unless you want to replace every suspension bush at once.. then maybe around the $1k figure. Wheel bearings? I guess once they get old, but they are very easy to replace (The fronts you can do yourself in about 15 minutes), and nothing like $1k. language change on the navi system is 'nice to have' but hardly required.. and common for any import. Aftermarket head unit again is a 'nice to have'.. you can buy 2nd hand factory units fairly cheap. Buttons are stickers.. they should cost you about $2 on ebay! out of all those items you listed.. on my car, which I have owned for 3 years, I have done - compression rod bushes. that's it!

???? x 2

Great thanks.. I was hoping to get away with leaving the subframe/cradle in place. But I guess it will depend on how stubborn the old bush wants to be.. I have read some posts about the front bushes and to make sure you get them the right way around, so I will pay extra attention to that. I ordered the kit from whiteline today.

Thanks guys.. I am going to order the whiteline bushes. I already have the whiteline front compression rod bushes and they are fine. My only concern is increased NHV, but it seems the whiteline have made an effort to reduce this without making the bushes too soft for the diff bushings. I am also going to borrow my brothers battery powered reciprocating saw. by the look of it, using a wood blade to cut the rubber section out first, then using a metal blade to cut the outer ring works the best.

True.. but we were referring to the bearing replacement for the other front bearing, so as you say, you need the entire hub. I believe for the rear the bearing comes with the mounting bracket, and you just need to press the hub out and into the new one. Or you can buy the entire assy for ease of replacement if you don't have access to a press.

People on carsales often have no idea how much their car is worth. $32k is just silly for a 350GT V36. $14k is quite cheap, I would say with high km, poor condition, or the owner just found out it had the odo would back or had accident history in Japan and just wants to offload it. That said, the 350GT does often go for quite a bit less than the 370GT. You should be able to import a clean example with low genuine km for around $20k or less, depending on you colour and option wishes.

If it is like the V35, you need to buy the whole hub, you can't remove just the bearing and replace it. The hub center is mushroomed at the end to prevent the bearing coming off.. Permanently.

I believe he means he used the bearing they pulled from the right side when they fitted a new bearing (which didn't fix the issue), and put it on the left (which made the noise go away). Personally, I would be ordering another new wheel bearing and fitting it on the left, so you will have 2 new front bearings.

There is a procedure here. http://www.freshalloy.com/archive/index.php/t-149714.html But I would just run the car in short bursts with the cooler line disconnected and then top up the transmission in between, rather than hoping you can 'keep up', while the fluid gets pumped out with a running engine. Also allows you to shift through the gears while the engine is running to ensure the valve body is flushed more thoroughly.

Awesome.. thanks for the info. I assume the outer ring of the bush is steel, so extra care will be needed to ensure I don't cut too far, as the alloy will be a bit like butter compared to the steel bush.

As far as I know.. all Auto transmissions are filled via the dipstick tube. Just dropping the pan and re-filling will only replace about half of the fluid in the transmission, so a 5L container will be close to all you need. The rest of the fluid will be sitting in the torque converter, with some in the valve body and cooler lines. A pan drain/refill is fine if you do regular changes as it keeps the fluid fairly fresh. But if it hasn't had a fluid change for 100,000km or so, you might want to consider doing a full flush To do a full fluid change, you will need 10+L and you will either need to take it to a transmission shop, who will have the equipment to do it. or use one of the 'DYI' methods by removing the cooler return lines.

I think the SPL bushings are solid, so they will transmit more noise than the whiteline bushes. Some have suggested to only use the SPL solid bushes if you do a lot of track work. Obviously I don't have any first hand experience.. just some posts I have come across when looking for options over the last couple of days.

Thanks, I am leaning towards the whiteline product, do you know if you can remove the old bush with the subframe in place in a sedan too? since the spare tyre well sits right behind the diff bush in the Sedan. or can you get enough access to it with the diff removed? There are a few procedures online that suggest to cut out the old rubber and then use a hacksaw to cut through the outer metal ring of the old bush. is that the method you have used? I assume you haven't found any increase in NVH with the whiteline bushes? Do you happen to know if you can even buy the factory bushings? I wasn't able to find them anywhere..

did you see this post? http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451371-parts-for-sale/

I suggest you steer clear of that mechanic

If you go custom, find someone who knows what they are doing. Most exhaust shops will just bend up some piping to suit, weld in an 'off the shelf' muffler, charge you a bucket of cash and call it a 'custom' system. IMHO you would be better off buying a system from a company that has taken the time to tune a system to suit the car.