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sonicii

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Everything posted by sonicii

  1. I don't think there is anything particularly 'bad' about these transmissions, the issues arise when you need any repairs done!! I'm fairly sure someone mentioned MV Automatics in Adelaide back on the first page too?
  2. I don't think this toroidal roller cvt, or a version of it, is used by anyone anywhere anymore. It was only suitable for RWD setups and didn't have the market to justify R&D costs to continue development. Plenty of xtronic (pushbelt) cvts used by Nissan and sold to other car makers, they seem to have them sorted fairly well now, they are reliable, and fluid price is coming down. About the only thing they battle with now is customer perception.. A lot of people don't like CVTs just because they are CVTs and don't have 'gear changes' like they are used to. For high power vehicles, multi speed standard autos are still the way to go, old technology, but it has been around for a long time and everyone knows how to build them.
  3. Yep.. the plate in the engine bay on the drivers side. it will tell you the VIN, engine number, transmission type, final drive type, paint code and interior colour (and a few other things). Also worth noting CVTs don't have gears.. the '8 speeds' are just computer programmed ratios it uses in manual mode, theoretically, a TCU reprogram and it will become a 12speed, or 3 speed, or whatever you like. In 'D' it has a near infinite number of ratios it can use.
  4. Sure.. I was just referring to the V35 though.. the only V35 the CVT was available in was the 350GT sedan. Even then it was an option, the 5AT was also available.
  5. Interesting, the CVT was only available on the 350GT sedan, and the 4sp auto only on the 250GT I believe.
  6. Agreed, there should be no detectable gear changes with a CVT in 'D', as there is no 'gears', just a continuous adjustment of ratio as speed increases, dependant on throttle input.
  7. If you can afford to wait for it - http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/knd194/item/kle5100004/ probably expect another $150-200 or so for shipping of 2 tins.
  8. a lightened flywheel will probably be cheaper and give better gains.
  9. Get a 6sp manual.. it has a hand brake!
  10. happens to me every time I wash my car and park it back in the car port. isn't major and doesn't require much extra effort to get the car moving, but it makes a 'cluck' sound when it lets go. I just assumed it was a bit of corrosion between the rotor and the pads from the water. Pads in the handbrake (Foot brake) shouldn't need replacing if you don't drive with the handbrake on.
  11. nope.. Redline CVT is only suitable in place of 'NS-1, NS-2, NS-3 Nissan CVT Fluid, pt# 999MP-NS200P (Jatco JFE10E, JF010E, JF011E)(RE0F09A, B, 10A)' How CVTs function can vary dramatically, so fluid designed for one type, can be completely unsuitable for another type. as is the case with a pushbelt vs toroidal CVT. you also don't want to keep the transmission too cool, although in Australia, it probably won't be an issue.. in colder climates, overcooling can cause issues. Remember, transmissions are designed to work at a certain temperature, which is why you shouldn't thrash them when they are cold.
  12. I haven't had experience with working on this transmission. But DO NOT use NS-2 fluid. This is for Nissan's xtronic (push belt) CVTs. Which are a completely different type of transmission to the extroid. You must use Nissan KTF-1 fluid. Or an equivalent (if there is one??)
  13. I had splash guards painted by a local auto spraypainter, and I can't tell any difference between them and the colour of the panels. Mine is silver, paint colour KY0. However, they said the paint code is not enough, they needed my car for half a day to mix the paint to match.
  14. not sure about SAs rules, but I would expect as long as they don't protrude outside the guards, and the overall tyre diameter is no more/less than 15mm from the orignal tyre size, you should be fine.
  15. according to this, VLSD only came with the 19in forged wheel package on the auto. http://translate.google.com/translate?depth=1&hl=en&ie=UTF8&nv=1&rurl=translate.google.com.au&sl=ja&tl=en&u=http://history.nissan.co.jp/SKYLINE/V35/0411/DATA/main1.html On a side note.. I like the first item on the 'manfacturer options' at the bottom of the 'sedan' page from this link.. ◆ 1 Rear between the ass wipers, cold weather model (large-sized battery ※)
  16. Yeah.. worth a try, even if it is just curiosity.. if you can make up your own cables, it will be much cheaper!. see if you can get hold of the install instructions for the real kit. If you just connect them to random spots, you can cause problems!
  17. Coupe factory spec.. I think the standard sedan rims were more like +45 offset. Anyway, they protrude very slightly outside the guard, so to get them to tuck under the guard without rubbing when the suspension compresses, I only had to roll them a little, not fully, probably only about 45deg.
  18. How did you manage to squeeze those under V35 sedan guards? Camber? or stretched tyres? I had to roll my rear guards slightly to fit 18x8 +30 rims with 245 tyres.
  19. Indeed.. After all. Nismo make oil filler caps!!
  20. Extra load on the electrics result in harder work for your alternator, which in turn loads your engine up more. I find the same thing if I try to wind up all windows at once.
  21. I am of the same opinion, I have only installed on on one of my cars (J30 maxima), and it made zero difference, despite many on forums saying how much of an improvement it made on their J30 (although probably the people that also said a FSTB reduced bodyroll!).. Personally I feel many install them when their factory grounds are a bit old and corroded, so they do notice a difference, but no more than what they would noticed if they cleaned up their factory grounds. Also, if you connect them in the wrong spots, you can get earth loops and make things worse. However, if they are connected properly and routed out of the way of moving items, they aren't going to do any harm.. and as you say.. are a bit of 'bling'. But to be honest.. $150 for $10 of heavy gauge flexible cable and $5 worth of crimp lugs, is crazy!
  22. plenty of good explainations of offset on google, with pictures which will make it easy to understand. lower number means wheel will be closer to the guard. Factory coupe tyre sizes with 18s run 245 rears and 225 fronts, 350z does something similar. my sedan came with coupe 18s with this setup.. I changed to 245 all round so i can rotate tyres. It also gives me just a little more clearance at the front with 350z springs.
  23. Those figures are wrong. you can certainly go with a wider tyre than that. I have 245 tyres all round on my sedan, and that is with Coupe 18s. which have a lower offset than the normal sedan rims.. I expect you could go at least a few steps wider if you have a rim with a higher offset than +30. 245s on 18x8 +30 rims come very very close to the guards on the sedan! You can also go with a larger rim than 19in, if you select the correct tyre. personally I wouldn't due to how much road imperfections will be transmitted through to the body of the car.. but that is up to the individual. You also CANNOT use 16in rims on a series 2 or series 3 V35. these series have larger standard brake rotors and nothing below a 17in rim will fit over the front calipers.
  24. it isn't about rim diameter.. you could easily enough go with a wider 17in rim to fit wider 17in tyres if you really needed to, there is no 'requirement' to change to an 18in rim. I'm not sure what width you could go up to on a V35 before you rub on the guard.. it would also depend on rim offset, you would need to select an offset so you don't rub the guards or the suspension.
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