sonicii

I have used the nissandatascan tool to do this process before and it works fine, but that was using the adaptor supplied from them. Everything the nissandatascan tool is able to do works on my 05 with that adaptor. It should be fairly obvious when the idle relearn actually runs, rpm drop quite low, then jump up over 1000rpm, then fluxuate a bit before settling down at the correct RPM. If you don't get the timing right with the manual method, you won't see this fluxuation.

^^ this. http://nissan.epcdata.ru/skyline/kv36/7263-vq37vhr/trans/370/

I don't think the pre-requisites (throttle closed/pedal), will prevent the process running, just mean it might not set it correctly. As scotty mentioned, there is likely another fault which needs to be resolved before it will work.

Firstly the 'clear self learn' is only for the long term fuel trim figures, it doesn't make any difference with the idle air volume learn, so it is unusal that this is making any difference. Secondly, the accel pedal/key method to do the idle air learn requires exact timing. When you get it right, the RPM should drop down to about 400rpm, then climb to over 1000rpm before settling down at the right RPM, if you aren't seeing this happening, then it isn't actually doing an idle air relearn. That said, the process via Nissan Datascan should work, so maybe check for other possible causes, like any new vacuum leaks, which might be what was causing your orignal issues.

compression rod bushings and lower control arm bushings are a common failure point on the front suspension, so I would start by checking these.

https://www.amayama.com/en/search?region=258&q=23731AL62A https://www.amayama.com/en/search?region=258&q=23731AL61A Shipping from Japan will be quite a bit cheaper.. so allow for that with the item price difference between UAE And Japan. I have only ordered from UAE when there was a significant price difference.

I don't think there has been a Nissan V6 engine with a timing belt since the VG engine in the mid 90s.. the VQ engines run a chain external drive belts should be replaced when they show signs of aging, I don't think there is any specific km figures for them. Same with waterpump, it is driven off the timing chain, and doesn't have a scheduled change interval. Seals should be replaced if they leak, but again, no specific KM intervals.

no spacers to be removed and I doubt a nissan dealer would be interested in doing anything for you, especially being an import. I think the options would be to have aftermarket seats fitted, or take it to an auto upholsterer and see if the can remove some of the foam padding in the seat base.

jump on G35 driver.. there are probably plenty of G35 owners over there trying to do the exact opposite, so you could swap badges..

only by name. if Carlos hadn't required the V35 to carry the 'skyline' name, no-one would have connected them to the r-series. I think the tuning scene in Japan likely stuck with the r series skylines due to the extreme abundance of tuning options compared to what is available for the VQ engine. If they wanted something newer, they went to the 350z, which is lighter than the V35.

I would agree.. B1 looks normal, B2 looks like it has issues..

out of curiosity.. what Bluetooth adaptor did you use? I have tried a couple with my V35, and none of them seem to work.

something seems a bit out. they probably won't do anything when they are cold, but once up to working temp, a normal NB O2 sensor should rapidly change from 0V to 1V as O2 is measured in the exhaust gas. To sit at a constant 0.27V is not normal. When you release the throttle from high RPM, the injectors shut off completely until the engine returns to about idle speed, so there is heaps on O2 in the exhaust during this time and you should see the WB figures hit about 3+ and the NB figures approach 1.0. That said, if the NB sensors are faulty, you should be seeing a CEL and codes stored in the ECU. I am wondering if NDS3 isn't correctly reading this data, thus the unusual figures and no CEL.

WB is the wideband or AFR sensor, these are used by the ECU to adjust short term fuel mix, there is one for each bank. The NB are narrow band sensors and are generally only used to confirm the cats are working, they aren't used for tuning at all, but they will throw a CEL if they detect issues with the cat function. you should see them all fluctuate as you give some throttle input.

Assuming a V36 coupe?? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-SKYLINE-370GT-V36-CAR-FLOOR-MATS-RWD-COUPE-FRONT-PAIR-ONLY-/181857294486?hash=item2a578a1896 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-SKYLINE-370GT-V36-CAR-FLOOR-MATS-RWD-COUPE-FRONT-REAR-SET-/171919434291?hash=item2807326233

I can't see how this could be an issue with your car.. although it seems unlikely, I think you managed to get 2 faulty fuel bowsers.

looks like ACT plates, so I'm guessing Canberra.

Guessing series 3?.. S1 and 2 have reflectors. Series 3 had factory projectors.

I believe snow mode just locks out 1st gear, so it will launch in 2nd gear. There should be a very noticeable difference when launching in 1st. If you have a CEL, you will need to get the codes read. Until then, anything is just pure speculation.

No-one in their right mind would pay $46.5k for a 09 V36 in Aust. Even a 6sp example shouldn't be much more than about $30k

I'm thinking the same thing.. especially since the last line of th ad is - 'Also available 2010 Infiniti G37 CONVERTIBLE $69,990!!!' Which is interesting, as I don't think the V36 convertible was available for import under SEVS, and Infiniti didn't start selling locally until 2012.

I guess he never checked carsales.. there are 2 on there at the moment..

you are really going to struggle to get to those sort of numbers NA. Cam, exhaust, intake and tune will never get you anywhere near an extra 100-150KW. And even if you do throw enough money and work at it to manage those figures (and I mean a whole lot more than $6k), it will never be economical again. If KW is your goal, sell the V35 and buy an R32-34 GT-R.

Did he swap out the Dual Mass Flywheel with a Single Mass? If so, extra gear noise is normal, especially at low RPM is normal. But it depends on what you mean when you say 'clutch disengaged'? does that mean clutch in, or out? Even with the stock DMF, you will get some gear rollover noise at idle with the transmission in N and the clutch out. Usually only noticable when you are next to a wall or other object to reflect the sound.

check your actual economy (L/100km), and get him to do the same KM/Tank is a poor indicator of fuel economy.. way too many variables. How low he lets his fuel tank run may well be different to how low you do. I could technically get over 700km out of a tank on my V35 with urban driving, but I would need to run the tank lower than I am comfortable with. I usually get to about 600-650km before filling.