sonicii

Not a coupe, but I have 18 coupe rims on my sedan, originally came with 225/45 front and 245/45 rear. with my last tyre change I went with 245/45 all round, VDC had a bit of a heart attack for about the first 500M, then settled down and has been happy since then. Since the stock sedan tyres are square, it seems VDC can figure itself out when you change from staggered to square or vice versa. Not relevant to a coupe, but I had to roll the rear guards slightly, fronts are fine. I can't see how 245/45 all round will be any issues at all with guards on a coupe. I also use mine as a daily, I fitted Maxxis MA511 tyres, as per the recommendation for use as a daily from the tyre shop. they are a low-mid priced tyre and I have found they are a low-mid performing tyre. Next time around I will certainly be investing a few more $$ to get a better tyre.

check the build plate for the transmission code. the CVT started with RE0R..... (I think) the 6sp manual starts with RS6R... But the centre console certainly looks like a bit of a auto/manual hybrid. I also had the clutch hose spring a leak on my sedan, soon after working on the slave cylinder. I just replaced it with one of these. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HEL-Braided-CLUTCH-Line-kit-Nissan-Z33-350Z-OEM-Layout-/271391526298?hash=item3f30320d9a:m:mBDBMCQBNUHRjX8PIIkIcHA I have coupe 18x8 rims on mine, which have a +30 offset, with 245/45 tyres, I had to roll the rear guards slightly to stop them rubbing. If you want to go with +12 and 10in rims, you will need lots of camber to prevent rubbing. Factory standard exhaust was not Nismo and was round tips.

^^ this. We had a dented door on my wife's J31 maxima a couple of years ago, door reskin and respray with blending onto adjoining panels.. $2.5k. With the V35 being an import, I expect it will be more. No way will that be anything less than a reskin. If you want to avoid insurance, I would see if you can find a complete door from a wrecker in the same colour.

currently running Maxxis MA511 as was recommended as a decent tyre for a good price by a tyre dealer, but no, I don't recommend them on a car like this, they are about what you would expect for a low-mid priced tyre in the dry, average steering response, not really great grip, but reasonably predictable. In the wet, they aren't nice at all, they will break traction quite easily and unpredictably and as they wear, they are getting worse. Once they are worn out, I will probably pay the extra for something like Michelin PS3. I had Kumho KU36 on the front before that, they were a nice tyre, but stupidly noisy.

They look like coupe V35 18s. I have these on my V35 sedan and I am running 245/45 all round without issue. I find 245 a good width for these rims, they protrude just far enough past the rim so you don't tear up your rims if you touch a gutter, but not too far that they bulge. Factory tyre sizes on these rims on the coupe was 245/45 rear, 225/45 front. Just FYI, there is no such thing as a G36. You have a V36.

https://www.amayama.com/en/search?currency=36&q=66895-JL00A

you need a band expander. Something like this - http://www.sinergymotorsports.com.au/cart/products-page/car-audio/stereo-nissan-radio-band-expander/ it won't change the stereo display, so it will show the wrong frequencies, but at least it will let you receive all stations. Also, I doubt you have a V35x, as the AWD version wasn't approved for import under SEVS, unless you have a private import and not a normal grey import.

I am sure it is possible, but that said, it isn't as much of an upgrade as it is from series 1 standard brakes. series 2/3 standard brakes have larger rotors than the S1, twin piston front callipers and larger front pads. I would be tempted to just get some decent rotors and pads and stick with the stock brakes, as a brembo setup is quite expensive, even for a used system.

You will likely find the Aust delivered 350z remotes operate on a different frequency to the JDM V35. (I know Chinese DM vehicles are different to ADM versions of the same vehicle) If so, maybe if you can get a JDM 350Z (Fairlady) remote, it might work.. that is assuming all the protocols are the same between the JDM 350Z and V35. The Immo chip and keyblade should be fine though. Also, I think the 350Z key you have attached is the smart remote for a keyless start system, with a keyblade only for emergencies to open the door if they battery fails.

how do you plan to get the V35 remote internals to fit into the 350Z casing?

yeah.. don't use that to tow.. you will tear the bumper reinforcing out of your car. There is no 'legal' towbar for the V35.. some people have manufactured their own.

What do you mean 'engine light is STILL on'? Was it on before the first overheating incident? or has it only appeared since? it is unlikely the CEL is related to the overheating, chances are you have left a connector off, or damaged a sensor while fitting the radiator/thermostat. you probably need to get the ECU error codes read to find out what the fault is there. As for the overheating, as above, i suspect you haven't properly bled the system of air.

Nope.. facias are different between Series 1 (01-04) and series 2/3 (05+)

This is what the G35 manual says - Economical operation (ECON) Economical operation reduces some load to the engine to improve the fuel economy. It allows higher humidity than normal operation. Pushing the AUTO/ECON button changes operations as follows while the A/C button indicator is on. AUTO!ECON!AUTO

I think it allows the compressor to diseneage when the cabin temp is low or at the set temp, but outside temp is high, rather than just pulling the heater in. I have the G35 manual somewhere, i will check when I can.

Mechanically, they are a 350Z. as said check japan history before you buy privately. if you want to import your own, use a reputable importer. The pre 2005 models do have some issues with window motors, and synchro issues on the 6sp manual. there are some common failure items, like front suspension bushes, and crank angle sensors, but nothing major.

if it is like the DE idle learn, there are prerequisites, like engine coolant at full working temp. And according to the FSM, there are a couple of throttle valve learn procedures that are supposed to be run first.

Seems unlikely symptoms for a fuel pump. I would expect a bad fuel pump to show symptoms under load with a cold engine too. but I wouldn't rule anything out at this stage. Might be a bit of a stretch, but what is your battery like? do you usually make short trips? my wife's J31 maxima is usually only driven short distances, and if we don't take it for a decent drive on the weekend it will start to have some hesitation from a cold start after 2 weeks or so, usually only 1-2 seconds before running fine.

This sounds like something similar to what affects some early V36s where the engine coolant has warmed up, but the oil isn't yet fully warmed. the VCT is quite sensitive to oil viscosity and doesn't function correctly while the oil is still thicker. i think there was an ECU update to extend the time after warm up before the VCT starts functioning, but it can be hard to get updates for JDM vehicles once they are outside Japan. Perhaps try a different type of oil..

Does it seem to miss in a regular/repetitive pattern? which would suggest an issue with an injector, spark plug or coil pack. Or in a very random pattern? which would suggest something common, like a fuel pump or other component.

you can get genuine compression rod bushings, but not LCA bushings.. those in the link will likely be febest bushes.. probably ok, but not genuine by any means. EDIT-.. actually with a part number like NAB-089, I guarantee they will be febest bushes.

No worries. Let us know how it works out!

Yes, I have bought from Amayama plenty of times, they are genuine parts and come in Nissan packaging, larger items like the knuckle would come with the genuine Nissan sticker, showing the part number, the same as you would if you bought from a dealer directly.

I believe most are the same rate as the standard coupe springs, or sports sedan springs, although the 350z did have revised rear springs which were firmer on some 05+ models, this may have applied to the later V35s with factory 19s too. there was a post on g35 driver which gave a list of spring rates for the coupes, sedans and 350z, with the colour dot markings so you can identify what you have. I have revised 350Z springs in my sedan, still with the factory sports shocks (red Tokico shocks), and they are all fine after about 2 years now. I can't find the page, but there is this page which might be helpful, unfortunately it doesn't show the identifying colour dot information. http://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-suspension/65190-g35-350z-aftermarket-coilover-springs-shocks-spec-s-w-updates.html

What about just 350z springs? not much of a drop with a coupe (approx 1/2in), but 1in drop in a sedan.