sonicii

I don't have a V36, but by the look of the pictures, it might not be possible to press another ball joint in. similar to the compression rod on the V35, the ball joint is built into the arm.

well the compliance sticker says 01/2008.

So 100% the same except for the bits that are different? I suspect the part numbers are different because of the difference?

coupe vs sedan Fuel tank is different. Coupe vs sedan Front cross member is different (not sure how but part numbers are different) Transmission mount is different between auto 5AT and 6MT. (6MT same as CVT) No idea how to make the ECU happy..

Was looking at one a while back, looks nice, but it is too 'Mercedes' and not enough Nissan, right down to the DSG.

^^ this.. go with a wrecker, or try the VQ Australia facebook group, I think there is a guy parting out an 03 that is smashed on the right side.

^^ this, it is the factory setup on the V36. If you are concerned about intake airflow on a VQ35DE, there are several other options which would be easier than trying to retrofit twin intakes from a VQ35HR.

Guess you mean Dual, unless swords are involved?? Never heard of anyone doing it, I suspect the benefits would be quite minimal but the effort significant, would require dual MAFs which the stock ECU isn't setup for, so would need an aftermarket ECU. I suspect trying to get a stock VQ35HR ECU working would be even harder.

Knock sensor wiring certainly needs to be sorted. The flexible plastic sheath has probably just broken down due to the heat in that area. Oil you are seeing is normal, remember the PCV sucks oil vapor from the crank case into the intake manifold, so some does settle and build up after a while, nothing to worry about there. If you are really worried, once you have cleaned it all up, install a catch can.

Do you want the vehicle wiring diagram, or a wiring diagram for the cluster? I have never seen one for the cluster, but there are G35 FSMs here - https://www.nicoclub.com/infiniti-service-manuals or https://cardiagn.com/2003-infiniti-g35-coupe-model-v35-series-factory-service-manual-sm3e-1v35u8/ They were in the top 4 results by googling 'G35 Factory Service Manual'.

^^ probably this, I would just google it as I haven't done it on this car before, it just needs to be a value the ECU will see as a healthy knock sensor, if you just unplug it, the ECU will notice that and permanently retard the timing. Unplug the sensor and fit the resistor between the 2 pins on the ECU side of the wiring. NOTE - if your car really is knocking, this removes the ability of the ECU to compensate and may cause engine damage..!!

you can bypass the knock sensor with a resistor as a test. But you would want to make sure the engine and electronics are otherwise healthy. Engine shouldn't knock if all is working well. Knock sensor is only there as a last resort protection and isn't used if all is otherwise ok. As for the other cam timing codes, I'm not sure, but maybe check ground points on the engine and in the engine bay.

all V36 350GTs have a VQ35HR engine, swapping it to a VQ35DE may be possible, but would big $$$.. lots of custom work required and not worth the hassle. Are you sure it isn't must moisture, it isn't unusual for 'fog' to come out your exhaust on a cool moist mornings, it usually dissipates fairly quickly, unlike actual smoke which hangs in the air. Otherwise, white smoke that continues can be an issue with a blown head gasket or other issues allowing coolant to get into the cylinders.

Not that it matters that much, but a GT350 is a mustang.. you have a 350GT.

https://nissan.epc-data.com/cima/fhy33/2224-vq30det/engine/226/22690/

must be sedan, no such thing as a V36 350GT coupe.. all coupes were 370GT. V35 coupe springs were lower than the sedan, and 350z springs were lower again, but spring rates were the same, not sure if that principle translates to the V36/370Z though..

just be aware some models have round pins on the bottom to mount in round holes in the radiator and some are rectangular. Not sure how easy it would be to make a rectangular pin fit in a round hole or vice versa if you get the wrong one.

11mm I believe. I bought a couple of packs of these, which fit. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887956939.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4d14OU8D

My suggestion.. find a new mechanic, if the limit of there ability is to plug in a diag computer then tell you to post on a forum, then you really shouldn't be paying them. Otherwise, start with the suggestions on the g35driver page, and remember, just fixing the fault doesn't mean your CEL will go off, it may need to be cleared or may at least need a few stop/start cycles.

nah, the last video, you can hear the slight wheel chirp (which a stock J31 will easily do if mashing the throttle), just as the video time cracks 9sec, the needle passes 100 as the video cracks 16sec. Hardly an accurate measurement, but that is all the OP has given us to go off at this stage. Then onto about 150 at the 21sec mark just before they back off. The first video you can see the rpm rise just before the speedo does at 11sec, then cracks 100 at about 18 sec. 0-100 is 7sec is probably fairly good for a 15+ year old Maxima, but not out of the bracket of normal.

Video looks exactly like a stock J31 4sp, unless the video was is slow motion, 0-100 in around 7sec is typical for a stock J31 (no idea where you are getting the 8.5sec figure from, maybe the Asian J31 VQ23DE powered version?), engine sound is also typical. I have a stock J31, so I know what they sound like and how they accelerate. No more stories, As said, post pics of the engine bay and drag strip results or it is all still just a story.

I would agree that it will have zip impact on V imports. I was entertained by several V35/36 owners that though their values would shoot up when Infiniti landed here, but no such thing happened. Now as they leave, the same will happen. As above, I hope it means more import options.

^^ this, Brembos will be easiest, no doubt the newer Akebonos could be made to fit, but likely be more $$$ Otherwise, if you want to go even cheaper, if you have a Series1, you could fit the standard series 2/3 brakes (larger rotors, twin piston front), they should be available fairly cheap.

V35 is not the same as V36

If it is the same as the V35, you can only buy an aftermarket bush for the rear mount, I tried to find rubber bushes, but had no luck, so Poly bushes might be your only option for the V36 too. I am not a fan of Poly for a daily either, it falls apart too quick and causes all kinds of squeaks and creaks when it gets a bit dirty