sonicii

probably 13264-AL601/611. https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/nv35/6821-vq25dd/engine/111/13264~A/ Although that page is for the AWD version, but I doubt the rocker covers would be different.

Not 100%, but I would suspect NO. The G35 has a 3.5L port injected engine, same as the V35 350GT, yours has a 2.5L direct injected engine. You might have better luck with a G25 rocker cover.

wasn't even aware there was a difference, but it seems they are right, the series1 V35 appears to be part number 54500-AM601 and 54501-AM601. But the Series 2/3 is 54500-AM602 and 54501-AM602. These pictures may help - https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-infiniti-nissan-oem-front-lower-control-arm-link-03-04-rh-nissan-350z-infiniti-g35-54500-am601_p_6928.php https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-infiniti-nissan-oem-front-lower-control-arm-link-rh-nissan-350z-05-08-z33-infiniti-g35-05-06-sedan-05-07-coupe-v35-54500-am602_p_6927.php

Probably can't help right now, but can only suggest you keep in mind you have a V35, not a G35, there are differences! USDM vehicles sold after 1996 were required to be fully OBD2 compliant, Japan has no such requirement, one of the reasons many generic OBD2 readers don't work on V35s. That said, I wouldn't expect the wiring to be all that different.

What spark plugs did you use? I would personally limit the options to NGK or Denso. There is no 'coil pack sensor', the ECU determines coil pack misfire by measuring the current delivered to the coil pack when it is triggered. There a coil pack can still be generating a 'spark' but that isn't sufficient to determine if a coil pack is good or bad. You really need to swap it out, or swap it with another cylinder. They can fail under load, or when hot/cold, only when the weather is humid, etc. If you are seeing coil back faults on all 3 cylinders on bank 1, I would also be looking for something common like a grounding point on bank 1 head, check body grounds in the engine bay and engine grounds.

Seems a bit convenient that all those things need doing at once. I would be seeking a 2nd mechanic to double check them for you. Especially since they haven't mentioned the compression rod bushing, which seems to be the most common failure point in the front suspension. But if you need to it all, you can replace the LCA bushes separately, can't get genuine bushes, only aftermarket, but should be quite a bit cheaper than the buying the whole LCA. Upper ball joint is part of the whole upper control arm, so would need the whole arm. There are 2 lower ball joints on each side, one in the steering knuckle which is replaceable and one in the compression rod, which requires replacement of the whole compression rod, so you would need to determine which one they are saying is bad.

I had these symptoms in my old R31 skyline year ago, turned out the clutch plate had failed (and was nearly worn down to the pins. Toward the end I had to put it in first and start the car, because I couldn't get it in 1st with the engine running.

^^ that's a PCV seal, not a spark plug seal. Bad news I'm afraid.. spark plug seals on the rocker cover are not replaceable. you need to buy the whole cover. There have been some people who have cut into the plastic splash guard inside the valve cover to access the plug seals and manage to find replacement seals that fit, but is all very messy and easy to stuff up. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/13264al611 https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/13264al601

That's weird, my Q50 doesn't seem to be like that, just pair the phone once and it works with audio and hands-free (including text messages). I'm surprised the later Q60 has gone backwards there. Wife's Murano seems to have the option to either pair the phone as audio and hands-free, or just audio alone.

I think I paid about $150 plus freight, but don't make my mistake, check it out before you buy it if you can.

yes, that would be the correct part, but you would be looking at A$1k plus freight for one. I had the same thing happen on my 05 V35 sedan a few years back. I ended up finding one at a wrecker at the other end of the state and ordered it after they said it was in 'excellent condition'... It turned up with more cracks than mine had, so I had it re-covered by an auto upholster who really did a sub-par job, but at least it isn't cracked now..

Nice work.. thanks for coming back with the results It is surprising how much fluid is left behind in the pan when you have drained through the plug hey? For anyone else doing this in the future, it is worth the reminder you need to set the fluid level with the engine running, but a relatively cold transmission.

You would have to go through the process of applying to the Aust Govt to have it added to the list. .I don't expect that would be an easy process, but I guess you could try. But considering they didn't allow the import of the AWD V35 despite never selling any models here, it might be a rough process. The current list - http://rvcs-prodweb.dot.gov.au/sevs/sevsindex.htm Also, would they be that much cheaper? you could get an AuDM RWD hybrid for mid $20k, I don't know if you would get a AWD RS imported, complied and registered for any less?

Can you even import them? they may say they are too similar to a locally sold model and therefore don't qualify.

yeah, nah.. basically the same drivetrain as the Q50 hybrid.. best I can manage is low to mid 6s on the highway if I baby it, city driving is high 8s. These hybrids are not built for economy. They use the electric motor to boost performance, improved economy is a bit of an nice after effect, but not the goal. Then just look for the Q50 RWD Hybrid. according the below page, the AWD red sport will do 0-100 in 5.2sec, the RWD hybrid will do 5.1sec. https://www.automobile-catalog.com/performance/2017/2512070/infiniti_q50s_3_0t_red_sport_400_awd.html

yeah, sorry, not sure what's going on there. Symptoms sound like air in the system, but if you have already eliminated that as a cause, then I am out of ideas.

it is very much a performance focused hybrid, not economy focused, put the boot in and it will drive with both petrol and electric together, but won't run both together under normal driving. When the engine is running while accelerating or cruising it has a heavy preference to use the petrol engine to drive the car and charge the battery, once there is enough charge in the battery while cruising at a constant speed it will switch to electric only and shut down the engine until either the battery charge level gets low, or you give it more throttle than it can cope with in electric only. it shuts down the engine while decelerating and charges the battery via regenerative braking. Will run on electric when it can while cruising up to about 105-110km/h, above that mine keeps the engine running all the time and only uses the electric motor if you put the boot in to overtake., I have heard the RWD will run on electric to cruise at higher speeds, probably due to less drive-train loss.. Otherwise it drives a lot like a conventional car, it is a normal 7sp auto, just has an electric motor and dry clutch where the torque converter normally is, transition to electric/petrol is very smooth, you often don't even notice if you aren't watching the tacho. I haven't driven the VR powered Qs, but have heard the performance sits somewhere in between the 300hp sport and 400hp red sport.

VK56 if you want to stay loyal.. but a very tight squeeze and will be outperformed by an LS.. I like the idea of something different, but you will need deep pockets to be a trail blazer.. Depends what your goal is I guess.

Nice, looks like mine has a twin!

I cleaned up the gasket and did put a bit of fluid on it, but it was still quite soft, so would probably have been fine either way. Yes, I did risk it and refit the old gasket rather than replace, against the FSMs direction. I bought the genuine filler adaptor from Nissan to connect a hand pump (which I bought from supercheap), but was about $70, so no doubt you could get a generic adaptor cheaper elsewhere. Some advice I found online, make sure you can remove the filler plug before you open the drain plug, nothing worse than draining the fluid then stripping the filler plug.. Apparently some people have had issues with the filler plug, but mine was fine.

I tried to get it as level as I could, I had the front on ramps and jacked the rear up and put it on body stands to get it as close to level as possible. As you probably know the filler/level set plug is toward the front of the transmission, so it needs to be fairly level to get it right, and the engine needs to be running. A hoist would be ideal, but I don't have one of those. No issues so far with the Penrite LV. still occasionally get a 4-5 flare first up in the morning, but never happens again until everything cools down overnight, seems it might be a TCU coding issue more than a mechanical issue. The hybrid uses quite a bit of electric motor assist for the first couple of minutes while the engine is warming up, so that might have some impact too. And the lack of a torque converter may also be at play.

Yeah, if I had a dollar every time I missed something and felt silly... Better to feel a bit silly here than in front of the dealer.. Unfortunately I doubt the throttle issue will be as simple.

yeah, the driver side and passenger switches don't do anything if you have the passenger window lockout enabled, only the driver window will work. that said, I haven't tried using the remote with the lockout enabled. the button at the bottom - EDIT - wait.. the drivers window doesn't work either? in that case, yeah, something is faulty..

Probably pissed that Infiniti limited their sales/support to a few select dealers in capital cities, now they want all dealers everywhere to support cars they never sold or have had any experience on. That said, they have the 400Z on the way, so they should be keen to get familiar with the mechanics of an Q60 RS.

maybe silly question, but it isn't the window switch on the driver side? my Q50 has a switch to disable all windows except the driver window. guessing on the Q60, that would only be the passenger window.