sonicii

there are a few online services that can check on the auction history of the car which will show what the odometer read when submitted to auction and what condition it was in, sometimes you can't trust just the most recent auction sheet either, there are dodgy operators that buy damaged/high odo vehicles at auction in Japan. Patch them up, wind back and then re-auction, the importer then only shows you the most recent auction sheet which makes it all look legit. These online services can check for all auction history, not just the most recent. I would recommend these for anyone even considering buying an import from a local (Australian) yard.

^^ agreed, unless the OP has owned it since about 2007-08 and has done very few km.

not that out of the realm of possibility, an 80L tank with highway economy, it is quite possible. My 6MT returns around 7.6L/100km on the highway, even if you assume 8.0L/100km and you were able to use every last drop of fuel, you would see 1000km. Or 870km with 10L left. That is of course assuming the OP is suggesting that.. the image is hardly self explanatory.

Most tags only work with the correct side facing outwards, if you mounted it on the back on the mirror, then then it would be facing the wrong way. I learnt that the hard way by putting the tag on the dash of a hire car, if you leave it upside down, it doesn't work.

If you are familiar with the NDS software, you can use the NDSIII version for the V36 - https://www.nisscan.com/NDSIII/index.php They also list suitable adaptors, which are different to those used on the V35. I have one that seems to work ok on my Q50, even though it isn't listed as a compatible vehicle.

As I mentioned earlier, in most cases the car is measuring your speed quite accurately, if you can use consult or some other OBD2 tool to display speed, you will see it shows a figure lower than your speedo is showing, meaning your odo and trip meters are usually correct (assuming you use factory size tyres, or at least the same diameter as factory tyres), so no global conspiracy to make you spend more on servicing. It is just the speedo needle that reads high as ADRs require the speedo to read you actual speed or up to 10% above, but never below, to prevent the chance of the speedo ever reading below actual speed and therefore being in breach of ADRs, most manufacturers set the speedo needle to read 5-7% high

Also found this, which is from the factory service manual for your 2008 V36.

Good luck then.. I installed one of these on my old 1993 J30 maxima which actually used the speedo cluster to process the speed sensor input before sending it to the ECU, that was the last car I owned that used a transmission output speed sensor for measuring vehicle speed. I can tell you 100% my 6MT V35 has no speed sensor in the transmission, only a reverse switch and neutral switch. So I am fairly certain the output speed sensor on the auto is for the TCU. But let us know how you get on. I have attached an image from the V35/G35 service manual which might be helpful..

Well, there are 4 wheel speed sensors, are you going to use 4 kits? I can just imagine the chaos created with ABS/TC/VCD if you only modify the output of one or 2. Also keep in mind the speed sensors give the ECU quite an accurate indication of speed, it is just the speedo needle the reads high, by offsetting any speed sensors to correct the speedo needle, your ECU will incorrectly read your speed which may have other consequences.

I thought any car built in the last 20 years or so would use wheel speed sensors (also used for ABS/TC) for the speedo, not a pick-up in the transmission.

I guess you mean, not a stat write-off? Probably not too hard to repair those items if they had a donor car. The question is, has it been repaired properly? or just enough to get a RWC?

Going to take a guess and say maybe the factory wheels are staggered? stud prevents putting the wrong size wheel on the wrong end?

Welcome. I think the general consensuses of the metra/aeopro double din fascia is to avoid !!.. they are cheaply made and cause issues. However, the genuine double din fascias are expensive and hard to come buy. If you do find one, make sure you are aware the Series1 ( up to 2004) fascia is quite different to the series2/3 (late 04 onwards).

When you first turn the ignition on, the system learns the closed position on the throttle and the pedal. As far as I know, it doesn't cycle the throttle butterfly. As for the issue, you need to get the codes read. there are many faults that can trigger the symptoms you are seeing. Randomly throwing parts at it and hoping to hit the right item can get very expensive.

Eeek, that is often catastrophic, can't say for sure if this is the cause of the issue, but it is entirely possible. You don't happen to have any friends with a V36/370Z you can swap the throttle bodies over and see how it goes?

same fault with both TPS at the same time seems unlikely. I would be looking for something in common. Grounding or power supply wiring?

what are you using to read the codes? if the CEL has come one, even for moment, it should have a code stored.

as long as it mounts up and the hoses are in the right spot, it probably doesn't matter too much if the core is slightly smaller. I just used a Koyo unit, just make sure you get the right mounts, some have round pins on the bottom, some have rectangular.

the sender are in series, there is only 1 fuel gauge circuit that passes through both senders, for the gauge to read full both senders need to have minimal resistance, which is what they have at/near the full position. If you unplug either sender, you break the circuit and the gauge will read empty no matter how full the tank is.

Going out on a limb and going to say you mean Impul 535? which I believe is just a rebadged V35 for the Malaysian market? not 100% certain there though as my knowledge is a bit sketchy on the topic..

^^ yep, that is true too. Except mine of course, it likes to randomly read high, cleaned sensors and connectors, checked for damage/debris on the level sensor, still happens through. Almost as if one sensor occasionally decides to read 'full' when it isn't.

That orange component you can see in your pictures is the jet pump, it is responsible for transferring fuel from the 'dead' side of the tank if the fuel level in that side is higher. If this isn't happening then I would be looking for issues with the hose or the jet pump. Keep in mind the 'jet pump' isn't an active pump, it is venturi device that depends on the fuel leaving the pressure regulator and returning to the tank to draw fuel from the other side, so there could possibly be issues with the pressure regulator or the venturi device.

Fairly sure there are plans to bring a few more in before the new ADR rules shoot them dead, might have to be quick to get your hands on one though. I would say your Nissan dealer would be your best starting point.

it is one big tank, not a main and reserve, but due to the shape of the vehicle it is high in the centre, there is what is called a 'jet pump', which is responsible for moving fuel from the side without the pump to the side with the pump. see this page for a description. https://www.sard.co.jp/after_eng/products/engine/jp_killer/jp_killer.html This isn't quite the same as the V35, I believe the 250GT is the same as the 350GT and has the pressure regulator built into the fuel pump assy, not external like the image in the link.

I believe having no spare would make it quite a bit more expensive, for some cars this is a $2k+ exercise, so $610 seems cheap.. If you have 1 working remote, it can be cloned a lot cheaper than a whole new key. I bought a spare key and remote for my wife's old maxima years ago, cost me about $50 from China. Nissan charged $35 to program the car to accept the new key/remote. But I had to have an existing working key/remote. that said, this wasn't a smart key.