sonicii

That would be my guess, now the hard part is finding it..

Once you unplug either of the 2 connectors on the fuel tank, the gauge should fall to zero. Since yours does not, you either have a short in your wiring harness somewhere between the tank connectors and the cluster. or the cluster itself is faulty. There is a test procedure in the FSM you can run on the cluster which should cause the fuel gauge to show half, regardless of what the signal from the sender is, this should help isolated the fault to the cluster or the wiring.

You can get the G35 FSM here, it is generally close enough for most things - https://www.nicoclub.com/infiniti-service-manuals What year? the cluster changed from incandescent bulbs to LEDs in 2005. but even then, you can still have bad connections that cause issues, I had a dry joint on a surface mount transistor on my 2005 that caused the odo backlights to go out occasionally. Fuel gauge issues seem to be common too, mine sometimes reads high, then returns to normal for a while, then reads high again, I have never worked it out, I've removed, cleaned and tested both senders, check for bad connections, yet it still occurs Sorry I don't have any solid solutions, but hopefully the FSM is useful.

Since there is no G37s in those years in the country, I am not sure anyone is going to know the feature list that well. anyway, the G37 and V36 370gt probably aren't really comparable, they have different features that were likely available at different times on one platform to the other, or never available on one. Although features will be similar between platforms, I don't think the features list was ever exact enough to be able to claim something like, 2009 G37 = 2008 370GT.

hmm. not that I know of, but possibly, happy to be corrected there! The confusion usually comes around the 2006 Infiniti G35 Sedans, they could either be a V35 or V36 chassis. The G37 sedan didn't come out to about 2009 I believe. You also have to be aware of other differences between the G and V. Like the V not fully OBD2 compliant, no revup engine in the later V35 like the G35 did, no AWD version with the 3.5L engine in the V, etc. One of the several reason it irks me when people call their V35/36 a G.

if you are after the whole service manual, you can download it here - https://www.nicoclub.com/infiniti-service-manuals they are for an Infiniti G35, but most things are the same, at least similar enough for the majority of issues.

I would agree with Duncan. Not sure how easy it will be to diagnose if you aren't familiar with electronics and use of a multimeter, but these 3 pages might help a bit to troubleshoot the switch. As you can see, only the washer pump is operated directly from the stalk switch, the rest are just inputs to the BCM, which controls the motor. Since there are diodes in circuit with each switch position, you will need a multimeter on diode check position. But normal continuity or ohms setting will be fine for the harness testing. ww1.pdf ww2.pdf ww.pdf

I believe they are tucked in a really awkward spot behind the battery so you need to remove a few trim pieces as well as the battery to get to it. As far as I know the relays can be unplugged and tested, I'm not sure how hard it is to source replacement relays though. Have a look here -

Could be a wiper motor or relay.. this may help.. ww1.pdf

Wouldn't you just use red LEDs?

Take it apart and have a look, you can remove most of the casing, then check for bad solder joints or failed components as GTSBoy suggested!

that is the fun part.. you can unplug the lamp from underneath the parcel shelf (access from the boot). However, you need to remove the rear seat, so you can remove the parcel shelf, the lamp is attached to the bottom of the parcel shelf. Maybe try having someone hold their foot on the brake pedal and ensure the normal side brake lights are on, then, push and flex the cable to the lamp (from the boot side) and see if the light turns on and off. If it does, a bad solder joint is probably the issue and you will need to remove it to repair it.

Mine stopped working about 6 months ago, I took it out, took it apart and found a bad solder joint. I re-soldered that and a few other higher stress joints and put it back it, it has been working fine since. Can't guarantee yours has the same fault though.

They should be correct for all V35 models from nov 2004 onwards (except brembo option) Look up your car on here.. it seems to be fairly accurate - https://dba.com.au/au-part-finder/

Welcome to the group! First question.. do you have twin piston callipers on the front? Twins look like this - If So, you have the upsized brakes that came with the series 2/3. Sadly many parts suppliers refuse to acknowledge this and list the smaller rotors for all V35s. The front rotor size is 320mm and the rear is 308mm. The rear pads are the same as the earlier models, but the front pads are different. You should be able to look up the non-brembo brakes for the 2005+ 350Z to get the correct specs. However, if you have the single piston front brakes like this - Then you have the smaller 296 front 292 rear rotors.

If you are on a budget, I would forget the HR swap. Anything is possible with enough $$, but the HR/VHR has a different bolt pattern, plus the dual throttle bodies will need a bit of customisation to get it to fit in a V35, then who knows how much messing around with ECUs would be required to get it working, given the extra throttle body, plus the HR/VHR also has variable exhaust cam timing, which the standard DE doesn't. Forced induction of your current DE would be cheaper, but you don't really want to skimp on that either if you want the engine to last.

That might be a bit harsh. I have had a late 80s R series skyline, a mid 90s maxima, wife had a mid 00s maxima, I had a mid 00s V35 and now a Q50. They have been an improvement each time. I would t go back to any given the chance.. I would agree, the Renault alliance didn’t do Nissan any favours, beside saving them from bankruptcy.. but Renault didn’t really have that much influence on Nissan vehicles they weren’t co-developing.

French?? Is there anything French on these?? Anyway, I hope you are doing more than just the rear main, you will also want the 2 seals number 11121 and 11121+A as well as dropping and re-sealing the whole upper sump (assuming that is what you are doing anyway). Definitely not a job you want to skimp on, nothing worse than chasing new oil leaks because of something you disturbed but didn't replace in the process.

I know the used market is crazy, but $14,250 seems overpriced for a series 1 auto V35.. unless it is something special.

If you google 'Japan car history check', there is at least one main site, it isn't free though. It will catch some of the slimy tricks like shady operators in japan buying damaged cars at auction, doing a quick repair job, winding back the speedo, then re-auctioning them, of course the dodgy importers here only show you the final auction sheet, not the first one. I don't have an auto, but I don't believe they are a known problem. But like any auto, if you neglect it, it will give you problems.

Engine, transmission, suspension, brakes, all straight from a 350Z, it is really only the body that is different. 'Small import business' scares me, I would get my own japan history check done before buying, make sure it isn't a repaired wreck and make sure the KM when it left Japan line up with what is on the oldest Australian service record. don't trust any history document supplied by the importer, or documents the seller got from the importer.

This sounds like the old 'rear click' that the 350Z/V35 had, due to slight bit of movement between the rear hub and drive shaft under acceleration or braking. https://www.notre350z.com/forum/files/uploads/dold/1207422654_ClickClack.pdf Never thought it could be an issue between the wheel and hub though, if the wheel nuts are properly torqued.

That sounds like the JDM models, they have the infiniti logo on the front, but 'Skyline' across the back, the hybrid wears the 350GT badge too. That said, I didn't think the JDM models were eligible for grey import?? unless they are AuDM models that people have retrofitted with the skyline badges.

Oh, that's easy.. go to a reputable tuner (preferably not the one that claims 50+kw from an ECU tune alone), run it on a dyno for a base figure, plug in your 'special' box. do another dyno run and post the results! Connect and tune your after-market ECU, run it again on the dyno.. post the results.. Or you could save yourself some time/money and listen to the people on this forum that have been down this road for themselves and learn from their experience/mistakes.

A V36 350GT might be the same as the V36 370GT (not sure if the Sedan and coupe are the same part though). V35 350GT is less likely. Have a search through the link Vee posted and compare part numbers