sonicii

I fitted 350z spring on the rear of my V35 sedan which dropped it about 25mm and was able to align it with the factory suspension, was near the limit though. Front is more difficult as lowering causes neg camber which you can't adjust out and most upper control arms only allow more neg camber, you can get offset lower control and compression rod bushings which can compensate a little.

I don't have one, but surely an muffler shop could find something aftermarket that would fit?

open the bleeder on the driver side toward the back of the engine, slowly fill the system to allow the air time to escape. Whenever I have changed the coolant, once full, I close the bleeder and put the cap back on then squeeze the top radiator hose a few times (not too hard), it moves the coolant back and forth through the system a bit and helps any trapped air escape to the top, then refill and repeat a few times. I have never had an issue with temp problems post coolant change.

Well, changed the TX fluid last weekend, drained the pan and then dropped the pan to clean it out, was surprised how much fluid sits in the bottom of the pan even after fully draining via the drain plug. the plug isn't quite at the lowest point, and has a flange around the hole inside the pan. It gave me a chance to clean off the magnets in the pan which had a little build up. Also given the RE7R01H does not have a torque converter, just draining and refilling the pan changes a higher percentage of the fluid. I did 3 drain and refills with running the engine for 3mins in between each as specified in the FSM. I can't say it made a huge change, it is difficult to separate any actual changes from placebo but it might shift a bit firmer now. Although I was getting some flaring on the first 4-5th change in the morning, subsequent 4-5th shifts were always fine after that. This seems to have disappeared now though. No negatives noticed so far. I do plan to keep this car for a long time so the main priority was to extend the life of the transmission.

I did look at the MaxLife, but I was a bit worried about how broad the 'compatibility' claim is. I was drawn to the penrite product as they make this specifically to meet the low viscosity needs of their specified compatible fluids and have a 'multivehicle' fluid that is suitable for the higher viscosity requirements. For example matic J is a higher viscosity oil, Matic S is low, but Valvoline claim 'Maxlife' meet the requirements of both. The transfer case in the Q50 specifically requires Matic J as it needs the higher viscosity fluid, but Matic S in the transmission due to the LV requirement. Anyway, I bought 12L of the Penrite LV ATF today, so will be using that tomorrow. I'll report back on how it goes.

I am about to do a TX fluid change in My Q50 which runs a RE7R01H transmission and specifies Nissan Matic S fluid. I called the dealer the other day to see if can order a 20L drum and they advised they no longer use Matic S as it has been superseded by Castrol Dex VI and they can sell me 4L containers of that instead. I figure I can get that elsewhere cheaper, but was instead looking at a Penrite product which specifically lists it is compatible with Matic S. The reason I am looking at this is because it specifies it is a fully synthetic ATF, where the Castrol product doesn't mention if it is synthetic. Has anyone used this fluid and can comment on its suitability? https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/atf-lv-full-syn https://www.castrol.com/en_au/australia/home/products/car/auto-transmission-fluids.html#tab_transmax-dexron-vi-mercon-lv

^^ This!! It is worth getting your own Japan history check done too. Easy enough for a damaged/ grade R car to be purchased at auction in Japan. cleaned up and patched up, then re-auctioned as a grade 4B or similar, all the dealer shows you is the last auction sheet, not the first. Import dealers don't really have a good track record when it comes to shonky imports.

mostly as above, if they are the right tyre size (diameter), offset and width, they won't hurt the car, but given how they look in the pictures, I suspect they aren't the right offset, at the least.. That said, they will ride crap and will be crazy expensive to replace. How they look, well that is in the eye of the beholder! Personally, I wouldn't go past 19s on these cars, but that's me..

you can probably unplug one or all of the sensors behind the bumper, but it will throw a dash light and likely make the car unroadworthy.

For sure, when I say 'point toward the starter motor', I don't mean it will be the starter motor, but including all the components associated with it, including relays, wiring, grounding, etc.

It does sound like a battery, when you attempt to crank, do the lights on the dash stay on at full brightness? or do they go very dull/off? If they stay on full, it points more toward the starter motor, if they go very dull, then look more toward the battery. How have you eliminated the above items? replaced them? tested them?

higher K means it is bluer, bluer light scatters easier, you don't want bluer light as headlights, especially for night driving in bad weather (rain), HIDs also produce less light in the upper temp range, so an 8k light won't be as bright as a 4.3k light. Personally stick with a standard colour temp, leave the high colour temps for the ricers..

I have a OBD2 reader I use with NissanDatascanII and it works fine, I also have a consult2 clone which works fine. Let me know if you still need me to measure the voltage on pin16

This is from my 05 V35.

Did they reset the st angle sensor? sounds like they didn't and now the car thinks you are turning more/less than you really are mid corner and is trying to compensate.

I know it is a bit late now, but as you mentioned, I am wondering if a VQ35DE might have been a better option, given that is what the G35x has stock and plenty of people have turbo/supercharged the VQ35, so you won't be blazing a trail.

ok, so this car isn't a normal grey import? it is a private import? as the allowed grey import V35 250GT had a 4sp auto and no AWD. I should have picked that up with the model code NV35, not just straight V35..

I don't know what is required, but I think it is very dangerous territory to start with the assumption that it will just 'drop in'. Probably better to start with the assumption that this will be a $20k/2 year task and anything less than that is a bonus. I don't know if anyone on here has done that conversion or a similar conversion, but research, research and research a bit more before you dive into this. you may need the wiring harness custom made, possibly a custom exhaust and intake. Will your stock 4sp auto cope or will it need a custom rebuild? Depending where this engine came from are the engine mounts in the right spot? will the flexplate from your current car bolt up to this engine? with the stock cooling system handle the extra heat? A stock VQ25DET ECU may not talk to the rest of your car, so may need to go with an aftermarket ECU, etc etc etc...

VK56 swaps have been done, but I believe they are extremely tight in that engine bay. https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-forced-induction/455271-04-coupe-vk56-engine-swap-build-8.html People tend to go the LS1 route though, easier, stronger, more upgrade options, availability of parts.

I don't have a V36, but by the look of the pictures, it might not be possible to press another ball joint in. similar to the compression rod on the V35, the ball joint is built into the arm.

well the compliance sticker says 01/2008.

So 100% the same except for the bits that are different? I suspect the part numbers are different because of the difference?

coupe vs sedan Fuel tank is different. Coupe vs sedan Front cross member is different (not sure how but part numbers are different) Transmission mount is different between auto 5AT and 6MT. (6MT same as CVT) No idea how to make the ECU happy..

Was looking at one a while back, looks nice, but it is too 'Mercedes' and not enough Nissan, right down to the DSG.

^^ this.. go with a wrecker, or try the VQ Australia facebook group, I think there is a guy parting out an 03 that is smashed on the right side.