sonicii

you can bypass the knock sensor with a resistor as a test. But you would want to make sure the engine and electronics are otherwise healthy. Engine shouldn't knock if all is working well. Knock sensor is only there as a last resort protection and isn't used if all is otherwise ok. As for the other cam timing codes, I'm not sure, but maybe check ground points on the engine and in the engine bay.

all V36 350GTs have a VQ35HR engine, swapping it to a VQ35DE may be possible, but would big $$$.. lots of custom work required and not worth the hassle. Are you sure it isn't must moisture, it isn't unusual for 'fog' to come out your exhaust on a cool moist mornings, it usually dissipates fairly quickly, unlike actual smoke which hangs in the air. Otherwise, white smoke that continues can be an issue with a blown head gasket or other issues allowing coolant to get into the cylinders.

Not that it matters that much, but a GT350 is a mustang.. you have a 350GT.

https://nissan.epc-data.com/cima/fhy33/2224-vq30det/engine/226/22690/

must be sedan, no such thing as a V36 350GT coupe.. all coupes were 370GT. V35 coupe springs were lower than the sedan, and 350z springs were lower again, but spring rates were the same, not sure if that principle translates to the V36/370Z though..

just be aware some models have round pins on the bottom to mount in round holes in the radiator and some are rectangular. Not sure how easy it would be to make a rectangular pin fit in a round hole or vice versa if you get the wrong one.

11mm I believe. I bought a couple of packs of these, which fit. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887956939.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4d14OU8D

My suggestion.. find a new mechanic, if the limit of there ability is to plug in a diag computer then tell you to post on a forum, then you really shouldn't be paying them. Otherwise, start with the suggestions on the g35driver page, and remember, just fixing the fault doesn't mean your CEL will go off, it may need to be cleared or may at least need a few stop/start cycles.

nah, the last video, you can hear the slight wheel chirp (which a stock J31 will easily do if mashing the throttle), just as the video time cracks 9sec, the needle passes 100 as the video cracks 16sec. Hardly an accurate measurement, but that is all the OP has given us to go off at this stage. Then onto about 150 at the 21sec mark just before they back off. The first video you can see the rpm rise just before the speedo does at 11sec, then cracks 100 at about 18 sec. 0-100 is 7sec is probably fairly good for a 15+ year old Maxima, but not out of the bracket of normal.

Video looks exactly like a stock J31 4sp, unless the video was is slow motion, 0-100 in around 7sec is typical for a stock J31 (no idea where you are getting the 8.5sec figure from, maybe the Asian J31 VQ23DE powered version?), engine sound is also typical. I have a stock J31, so I know what they sound like and how they accelerate. No more stories, As said, post pics of the engine bay and drag strip results or it is all still just a story.

I would agree that it will have zip impact on V imports. I was entertained by several V35/36 owners that though their values would shoot up when Infiniti landed here, but no such thing happened. Now as they leave, the same will happen. As above, I hope it means more import options.

^^ this, Brembos will be easiest, no doubt the newer Akebonos could be made to fit, but likely be more $$$ Otherwise, if you want to go even cheaper, if you have a Series1, you could fit the standard series 2/3 brakes (larger rotors, twin piston front), they should be available fairly cheap.

V35 is not the same as V36

If it is the same as the V35, you can only buy an aftermarket bush for the rear mount, I tried to find rubber bushes, but had no luck, so Poly bushes might be your only option for the V36 too. I am not a fan of Poly for a daily either, it falls apart too quick and causes all kinds of squeaks and creaks when it gets a bit dirty

seems unlikely, would need bit $$ spent, the higher powered VQ35 fitted to the V36 skyline were dual intake and were externally very different looking to the standard DE engine, it would require a complete ECU and wiring replacement as well as trying to get it talking to the factory auto TCU. They were also a VQ35HR, not DE. There also was no 'infiniti Skyline GT500' There was a Skyline GT-R GT500 race model but it had a RB engine, not a VQ. Even the V36 skyline with this engine won't do 4.9 sec 0-100 with it's 5sp auto, so I can't see a J31 managing this with it's 4sp slush box. As above.. pictures please!

Do you mean NATS? I think it is fairly heavily integrated, not sure if upRev will do it, or you need to go with a full aftermarket ECU. NDS certainly cannot.

According to epc data, the part numbers are the same, so they should be identical. Even lists the same part number for the VQ37VHR

have a read through this - was a CVT, but most things will be similar, somethings will be more difficult as some of the transmission mounts for the CVT were the same as the 6MT, but not the same as the conventional auto.

G35 might have a different ECU as they were OBD2 compatible, the V35 ECU isn't. That said, I have never heard of anyone having issues with a V35 350GT with uprev, maybe there is something a bit unique about yours. Sorry, I can't help much further.

I thought relocating the park brake was one of the difficult tasks, with some people cutting and welding part of the tunnel from a manual to get all the hand operated park brake to function properly?

Technically yes, but don't assume you can use the entire 80L tank capacity, once you drop below about 5L remaining you are going to start sucking air in corners/inclines.

are you basing your figures on how much fuel you are actually putting in the car? or what the fuel gauge says? Fuel gauges are usually not accurate enough to use for judging economy when they are working well. Fill the car, reset the trip meter, drive for a few hundred KM then fill the tank again, you can then work out your economy based on the distance you travelled and the amount of fuel used. My 6MT is usually in the mid 10L/100km with 100% light urban driving and mid 7s on the highway. If you are really only getting 200km from 32L of fuel, this is quite bad, coming in at 16L/100km unless you are almost always in heavy peak hour traffic.

I didn't think that was a problem on the 350GT? only on the early 370GT?

Fair enough, but I suggest you do your research first so you know what you are in for

Maybe, you probably need to leave the auto TCU in place so the ECU doesn't through a huge hissy. However, the ECU wiring will be the least of your hassles, search for threads from others that have done it, it is a huge job.. just sell your auto and buy a manual V35!