sonicii

the outside sensor will be impacted by engine heat when you stop.. it is mounted in front of the radiator, which is why you see it drop fairly quickly once you start driving again. Cabin temp sensor is near your left knee when in the driver seat, so you would need to ensure you are checking the temperature from around the same area. It is unusual for these items to be inaccurate, normally when the sensor fails.. it fails properly..

I don't think you can in normal operation, but I believe you can go into the diag mode and see what temperature it is reading from the sensors. I have attached the page from the FSM which may help. atc.pdf

No one with any common sense.. $1600 for a set of OEM cast 18in rims.. ouch.. I guess they are hoping for someone with more money than brains..

These cars use a variable displacement compressor, they don't regulate temperature by turning the compressor on/off, the cooling power is adjusted by varying the compressor displacement. A bit like an inverter air conditioner for a house. So the compressor is always engaged when the AC is turned on. That said, i have found most car ACs with climate control will turn on the AC compressor for at least the first 5 minutes after switching it on, regardless of the temperature setting. Probably for situations where you are using the AC to dry the air (defog windows) rather than just for cooling, usually the system will engage the heater at the same time. Also keep in mind, CC systems usually have some 'smarts' built in, they monitor the external air temperature, and detect sunload, so they may blow cold air, even if the interior cabin temperature is at or below the current set point, in anticipation of the heating effects of outside air and sun. They don't wait for the cabin to get hot before reacting.

Consult is Nissan's diagnostic system, consult3 is the most recent revision, this is what Nissan plugs into your car to diagnose issues. There are several consult3 clones you can buy to do the same job. Even some basic diag tools can do simple tasks like read error codes. I used Nissan datascan to check the code when I had these symptoms.

Yep.. mine did exactly the same thing, but was caused by a bad connection on my after-market cruise control, which threw a 'accelerator pedal sensor' fault. So certainly needs codes read to know the cause.

Yeah.. I haven't actually seen a set of 19in rays for that on their own, but I have seen a good set with decent near new tyres for $1000, so if you subtract the cost of the tyres, you could claim the rims come in at about the $300 figure??

I had a failed AFR sensor (wide band O2 sensor) on my V35, but it only caused a CEL and poor economy, no other symptoms. I would assume the HR engines also use AFR sensors?

you will need to have the ECU code read to know the cause.. these symptoms happen for many different reasons.

Would be better to get any problems fixed before you think about a tune. Those figures seem quite high.. I am not sure what is normal for the V36, but they are far higher than what I get in my V35.

If pushing on the +be battery terminal fixes the problem, then this is most likely where your problem lies. With a bad battery connection. If not here, then a bad connection somewhere.

I have seen them go for closer to $1000 if they are in very good condition.. especially if you can find a set that someone hasn't butchered by painting them black!

it is usually stamped on the back of the wheel casting somewhere.. it will probably say something like 18x8.5 +50 which would be a +50 offset. Or it may just have the offset figure on its own somewhere.

I am wondering that too.. they look like a fairly serious offset.. my guess is something like +50 or more. Price is quite good though!!

For some reason, the ryco webpage lists a Z436 for the V35, but Z445 for every other vehicle with the same engine, including the 350Z. Most other sources list the Z445. The Z547 also fits, but is 20mm longer

Get a late model R34 GTT (they were manufactured up to 2004?) I think they stopped in 2002 when they released the v35 coupe.

I thought the VQ35HR had the same torque figure? It recovered the torque the DE revup engine lost and increased power further.And it was 230kw in the V36.

I haven't driven one with a bad gearbox, so I can't say 100%. But a healthy gearbox should allow you to do fairly brisk changes (don't be brutal with it), when warmed up properly. It should not cruch at all. From what I have heard, 3rd and 5th are common gears to go first.

Sure.. Buy what does that have to do with how stamp duty is calculated?? If you buy a 2nd hand GT-R for $80k. You can't put down $50k because that is how much they sell for in Japan.. The rules are fairly clear.. Purchase price (to get it registered in aust) or market value, whichever is higher. Not how much you did/would pay for it in another country.

The CD 001 6sp fitted to the series one can have issues with weak synchros. This was fixed with the CD009/update in 2005. If you take it for a test drive, make sure you do some quick gear changes once it is warmed up, any crunching and you still want the car, allow about $3k for a transmission replacement.

You are better off posting in the R series skyline section. The V series VQ engines don't have timing belts.

I think an R series skyline would be the way to go if your goal is 0-100 times. A V is more of a performance cruiser. You can go FI, but it is going to cost you more. At least with an R, the path is already very well worn, so lots of advice will be available and parts are much more abundant.

Perfect for the rear of sedans??? I had to roll the guards to stop 245 tyres on 18x8 +30 rims from rubbing on the guards.. 19x9 -6 would need major guard work or insane camber and stretched tyres to even think about fitting.

I used these guys - http://www.japaneseodometercheck.sto.my/ Because I was a noob and didn't get any dereg papers when I bought mine privately here in Australia. The documents supplied had all the vehicle details, but did not have any odometer figures of the car when it was exported when it was 3 years old. They still supplied me the documents, but also gave a full refund!

I used these guys - http://www.japaneseodometercheck.sto.my/ Because I was a noob and didn't get any dereg papers when I bought mine privately here in Australia. The documents supplied had all the vehicle details, but did not have any odometer figures of the car when it was exported when it was 3 years old. They still supplied me the documents, but also gave a full refund!