sonicii

it would be better to clean any car once a week than once every month or so.. Provided you are using quality products. (don't even think about using dishwashing liquid!)

Maybe.. but changing from a dark maroon car to a silver car made no noticable difference to internal temperatures after parking in the sun all day before I was able to get a secured spot to leave the windows down a bit. darker paint may cause it to heat up a bit quicker, but it seems to settle out at about the same internal temperature regardless. I found the roof lining temperature after parking in the sun for hours was still much much cooler than internal surfaces that had been exposed to the sun.

Paint colour only makes a releativly small different to cabin temperatures when parked in the sun. RACQ did a test a while back and found a 3.1degC difference between a black and white car of the same model - http://www.racq.com.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0007/48796/09_Temperature_in_Cars.pdf biggest cause of high interior temperatues is the colour of the interior surfaces, and how much sun reaches them, a black dash in full sun becomes one big heater plate. Living in North Queensland, I have found the best way is to tint windows, use a windscreen cover and leave the windows slightly open if possible. I park in a secured car park during the day and have slim weather sheilds on my car, so this isn't a problem for security or rain. interior temps probably only get 5-10 deg above ambient.

I haven't had a black car, but have had a dark colour, usually with black, the slightest paint defects will show, especially swirl marks from poor washing or polishing processes. but they look great if maintained well. Grounding straps were more of a 'placebo', some people though build up of static electricity on the car body could cause sickness.. don't think there is any science to support it. Dust will stick to your car regardless. Rubber on asphalt will generate very minimal, if not, zero static electricity anyway.

If you had a donor car, you could probably do a swap, because you are likely to need more than just a transmission. Yes, that company is in NZ, but when compared to repair costs, shipping will probably be fairly insignificant. They may also ship a reconditioned unit to you so you can do a straight swapout, and then ship yours back to them.

http://www.cvt.co.nz/index.htm. These guys are about the only place I know of.. they do re-conditioning. not sure i would ever trust a 2nd hand unit, but if you could try the wreckers.

similar. http://www.japantradecar.com/info/Fraud_Warning/Why_Is_Export_Certificate_Important.aspx

^^ This, bigtime. ask for the dereg papers and export certificate. if they baulk at this.. walk away.. If they are an honest dealer, they will have no problems supplying you these documents, and if they were the importer of the car, they WILL have them.

The lower lamp is the High beam/fog light and is halogen from the factory. you could swap this out with a H4 HID retrofit kit, not sure of the legalities of it though. I imagine it may be a problem for the fog lights as they need to cut off quite low and the non-standard lamp will likely mess up this pattern. If you don't use the fog lights, then it might be ok.

I agree, the G35, has cruise, but the V35 doesn't, the ECU is different and cruse requires aftermarket kits. Why they didn't use the same ECU and just omit the steering wheel buttons for the V35,is beyond me.. Must be a Japan thing, just about every car over the last 10 years sold here has cruise as standard, unless you buy a 'cheap' car. In Japan cruise seems to be the exception to the norm.

yeah, not too bad considering.. official specs were high 6s and high 14s for the MT, and just over 7s and low 15s for the AT. not sure what the real world figures were. 0-100 times were better than the XR8 and V8 commodore of the time!!

^^ this.. no fuel in the intake manifolds, but plenty of exhaust and oil from the EGR and PCV ends up covering the back of the intake valves as well as the rest of the plenum, needs to be dismantled and cleaned. Ralliart Magna is an interesting car.. Numbers on paper aren't too exciting, but they managed to do it with an old fashioned SOHC engine with no variable valve timing, and in a FWD layout.

Mine has 105,000km on it, the lower control arm bushes are ok, but I have had to replace the compression rod bushes at about 80,000km, didn't have any symptoms, but took it for an inspection and was told they are loose.

Me too. I have been looking at replacing my current green on white qld plates with black on silver for my silver V35.

If you try the wreckers, you may find that any Nissan (or possibly even other manufactures) use the same size/shape lid.

many times I have got the lids between a 5L bottle of demineralised water and the coolant overflow bottle lid back to front.. they fit fine!! not sure how well they will handle the underbonnet temps over the long term though.

They are on mine, and I probably made a bad assumption that they all have them. I have completly stripped my drivers seat to repair the broken lifter bracket and there is no switches, just a long tube across the front of the seat with airbag/explosive warnings on it, and a single yellow harness, but from memory, it had more than 2 wires. The passenger side has the same thing. Although I haven't stripped the passenger side seat to the same extent as the drivers side, the module and harness looks the same.

I think all have the unit under the seat. it isn't an airbag in the traditional sence, but more of an 'anti submarine' device which stops you sliding out underneath your seatbelt in an accident, but it is still part of the airbag system, so will throw the same warning light if there is an issue.

clearing the error only treats the symptom, not the cause. You need to find out what is triggering the error. The unit under my passenger seat was causing problems with mine, the light would come on once every couple of months. I tried cleaning the connectors and cable tieing the wiring in place, none of this worked. I ended up dismantling each connector and soldering the wiring into the connector pins, cleaning up the pins and re-assembling. I haven't had a problem in over 6 months now.

Metra or Genuine?

^^ not that!! (referring to OP image.. not replies.)

^^ you won't be disappointed, remember to allow for tyres/stamp duty/rego/insurance. But even with all that, it is less than I would be willing to sell mine for.. and mine is nearly identical, same colour, same year, same interior, just 10,000km more on the odo.

Since you are considering a 250GT, 300GT or a 350GT-8, i guess you are looking at a sedan? since the coupe is only a 350GT in a 6sp manual or 5sp auto. Either way, i would go with the 350GT with a standard auto or manual.

I'd sell mine if the price was right, but it has 105,000km now! and in Queensland. They seem to come in bursts.. when I bought mine (3 years ago), there were 2 others for sale at the time, but I haven't seen any for sale for a while now.

Mine had the dash mounted receiver when I purchased it, along with the manual for the ETC (electronic toll collection) unit in the glove box, but no actual ETC unit.. I guess someone had removed it beforehand. so I just removed the receiver.. The system doesn't work in Aust anyway.