sonicii

Then tell them to remove the hub before working on the balljoint.. it is 4 bolts!

seems excessive for just the control arm bushes and ball joint.. would think a real suspension shop with all the requierd tools would take 6-7 hours to replace all bushes and ball joints on the car!

Isn't VTEC just 2 fixed cam settings and it switches between them? if so, it is a bit different to variable valve timing on the VQ. anyway, I have run castrol edge 5W-30 in mine since I have owned it, without any issues.

QFM if it is just for street use.

Now that I have replaced the factory LuK clutch plate and pressure plate with an exedy unit, the clutch pedal feels heavier and a bit spungy. So I am looking at replacing the stock clutch hose with a braided hose. But I can't find any information to say if there us a difference between one for a RHD and LHD. I have seen the nismo units from Japan for around $100. But Z1 in US has another brand for about $25. Any suggestions?

If you have a normal key for the ignition, then you don't have an intelligent key, so the 'rubber button' on the door, probably means you have the 'snow kit', part of that kit is removal of the key locks in the door so they don't ice up. I would confirm all keys actually start the car, that way you know that the immobiliser chip in all keys are programmed into the BCM, then all you have to deal with is a faulty remote, or a remote the car isn't programmed to accept.

Correct, the Navi option included the 'pop-up' screen, which also includes the fuel economy display, service reminder, TV, etc. If this option wasn't selected there was just a pocket with a lid in this position on the car. Bose stereo was standard on the Premium Coupe. (still an option on the premium sedan though).

No, Navi was an option across all models.

Or perhaps it just wasn't optioned with Navi when originally purchased?

If you look carefully you can see part of the bulb through the lens, but you need to know what each type of bulb looks like.

Chris Rogers will be able to answer this for you, PM him or just wait for him to see this post. The factory immobiliser in the V35 wasn't up to Aust standards. The V36 might be..

From the NRMA PDS - Maintaining your vehicle We don’t provide cover if any of these applied to your vehicle when the incident happened: • your vehicle was not in good order and repair because it had : – any unrepaired damage – rust, mechanical or any other damage that made it unsafe to drive • your vehicle was not in a condition that met the registration requirements in your State or Territory. If spacers aren't legal in your state then according to this, you won't be covered.

Ah. My sedan has the 'power duct'.

Huh?

Well, fitted a new LuK DMF and Exedy clutch kit today, seems a bit easier to control now, the clutch isn't as 'bitey' as the old one. But I really haven't taken it for a long drive yet. The existing clutch seemed to be factory, as all components had LuK and NISSAN written on them. There was still plenty of 'meat' left on the clutch plate, but the DMF seemed to have a bit of play. There was also a few 'shiny' spots on both the flywheel and pressure plate, but didn't have any signs of chatter, not sure what the shiny spots mean?? The Exedy clutch feels a bit heavier than the factory clutch and makes the clutch pedal feel a bit 'spungy'. I am thinking a braded clutch line may help with that? Does anyone know if there is a difference between the LHD and RHD braded clutch lines?

1. I would suggest air forcing its way past a door seal at higher speed.. at 60km/h it isn't enough to get past. 2. likely the ABS test, especially if it only makes the noise for about 1-2 sec.

Line of sight is better, but you aren't going to get line of sight very often from the windscreen anyway. And if you have metalized tint, it is going to kill the signal anyway. With the TV channel reallocation, they are all moving to a lower channel anyway which will help to reduce the 'line of sight' issue. It won't help for obstructions like hills or large buildings, but trees and smaller objects will be less of an issue.

Well if you are after a manual, the 350GT will be a V35, which is a different model to the 370GT which is a V36. the 350GT in the earlier V36 models were in the sedan only and therefore, auto only. To be honest if the prices you are quoting are all for Manual Coupes, then I would go with the V36 370GT if it is only an extra few $k. Certainly get them checked out very well as you would normally be looking at an extra $10k for a 370gt coupe over a V35 coupe if there were in similar condition.

I'm not intending to question Scotty's extensive experience, but just thought I would let you know the V35 manual doesn't show any oil heavier than 10W-40 (with 5W-30 preferred), on the chart. The Chart for the VQ35DE in the Aust delivered J31 Maxima also shows 5W-30 as 'preferred', but list oil up to 20W-50 for ambient temperatures above -10degC. Not sure if the fact the VQ35DE in the Maxima is considerably detuned makes it less sensitive to oil weight, or if most areas in Japan will see temps below -10degC and therefore Nissan didn't list an oil suitable for higher temperatures for JDM vehicles?

I doubt a park brake light would cause a VDC system error. I would still keep an eye on it.

you can get the physical keycase and blade on ebay - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-3-BUTTON-REMOTE-KEY-SHELL-KEY-CASE-MICRA-350Z-PATHFINDER-NAVARA-/221126171658?_trksid=p2054897.l5659 However, you are going to need the immobilizer chip and remote central locking module and then have your car programmed to accept it. I am not sure if any ADM model nissans use the same type of keychip and/or central locking remote. If you can find out if another ADM nissan does, you could try to find a 2nd hand key, take the keychip and remote board out, fit it to the case from ebay above, have the key cut at any locksmith, Then take the car to Nissan to have them program the BCM to accept both keys and both remotes.

I feel your pain.. I have had the same problem with brake suppliers refusing to accept their catalogues are wrong regardless of how much evidence you give them. Just about all local brake suppliers will tell you that all V35 non brembo brakes are the same.. This is WRONG! The listings they have are for Series 1 brakes only! After researching this quite a bit in the past, this is what I came up with - early non-brembo 350z (pre 05) and Series 1 V35 front and rear brakes are the same (296mm front rotors, 292mm rear rotors, single piston front and single piston rear callipers). 05+ non-brembo 350z and Series2/3 V35 front and rear brakes are the same (320mm front rotors, 308mm rear rotors, twin piston front and single piston rear callipers) Not too sure about the brembos, but I wouldn't be surprised if they are the same. Rear pads are the same across all. Front Pads are different. As for the handbrake, I researched this a little and couldn't find anything to suggest the 05+ 350z rear rotors have a 190mm handbrake, all the resources I found said it was a 170mm just like the V35. However, I did find the Brembo rears have a 190mm handbrake. However, some have claimed the have seen non-brembo 350z rear rotors with a 190mm handbrake, so I am not to sure of this. As for real life experience, I have a 05+ 350Z rear rotor on my S2 V35 and it fits perfect, same size handbrake.

I am using castrol edge 5W-30 on both cars. I change oil and filter at 6 month intervals (because we do under 5,000km in that time) My V35 has 103,000km. And the J31, has 83,000km.

Mine very rarely rattles at startup.. usually only after I have left it sit for many days, and then a very short rattle, certainly less than 1 second and only seems to happen about 1-2 seconds after firing up, it doesn't make any noise from the instant it fires. I just assumed it was due to the extra time it takes to obtain full oil pressure if the engine hasn't been started for an extended period. Just overnight or after sitting at work all day, I get no noise at all. Same with my wife's J31 Maxima with the VQ35DE engine. Even after an oil and filter change, it doesn't have any rattle at the first startup while the filter takes a few seconds to fill with oil.

A Nissan dealer or someone with a Consult3, some good mechanics may have a OBD3 reader which should be enough to check for error codes.