sonicii

Mine wasn't as it wasn't connected to anything. my auto headlights still work fine. I would have expected the auto headlight sensor is intergrated into the dash? This antenna has been added on top of the dash with its own wiring tucked behind the dash.

Mine already had the toll card reader removed and a standard glove box housing fitted when I bought it (2nd owner in Aust). The only reason I know it had the reader is all the documentation for it was still in the handbook. It also had a small black square antenna mounted on the dash, hard up against the windscreen. I recently removed it and it was connected to nothing, so I assumed it was the antenna for the Toll card.

I used Meguiars on my old J30 maxima, the dash was still soft and flexable when the car died at 18 years old. I did use a windscreen shade when parked in the sun though.

I just use a windscreen cover when parked in the sun, and have the windows tinted. That also protects the steering wheel, door trims, seats, gear lever, centre console, etc.

^^ this. The actual pastic facia is easy to cut. But the AC control/ stereo control is all integrated into one large board behind the facia. I recall seeing a pic of someone who had modified the factory board to suit a double DIN facia and it was a big mess of wires.

You mean the same shape as the V36 coupe?? (Since it is a V36, with Infiniti G37 badges)

We probably need to be certain of what you want Mudflaps. http://www.sparcousa.com/sites/default/files/imagecache/product_full/products/03791%20Blue.jpg Or splash guards?http://www.acurapartssuperstore.com/images/lg/09_TL_SplashGuard.jpg You can buy coupe splash guards here http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=2442&Car_Type=INFIG35&UID=2013120800431349.182.9.213 http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=2443&Car_Type=INFIG35&UID=2013120800431349.182.9.213

That will be nice.. We just need to wait until they release the V37.

You and many other people, if they ever pop up for sale they go quite quickly.

You can get splash guards as a genuine item. But I haven't seen mud flaps

Are you sure the noise is only when driving over bumps, and not when you are accelerating/decelerating? There is the 'Axel click' issue, but will tend to be noticeable when accelerating from a stop or slow speed, or decelerating in gear.

If I ever get there, I will be sure to let you know. From what I can tell, the dials need to be removed, then the backing/sheet can be unclipped, the you can access the screws that hold the electronics in the plastic housing.

North queensland- Townsville. It might be still interested. There are probably a lot of components in common between the S1 and S2. As long as the dials are the same.

Wait.. if the noise only occurs while driving, and you can't hear it when tapping around the area or on a suspension shop 'shaker', how can you know that the noise is 'definitely coming from inside the disc rotor'?

Thanks guys, a 2nd hand cluster to practice on is probably the way to go, if only they weren't so expensive!! Some of the G35 forums just suggest you need to pull on the dials (or leaver them off with 2 spoons), and they will pop off. I'm probably not trying hard enough as I don't want to break anything. Would be best if I can find a S2 cluster so I will have spares if I break anything on mine. Mark - I assume your M35 cluster is similar to the S1 V35? as I don't recall my cluster having any lights accessible from the rear of the cluster casing.

Has anyone ever managed to dismantle the speedo cluster? I have some backlights on my Odo only working intermittently. I have removed the plastic front cover, but to remove the speedo cluster from the case, you need to remove dial backing to access the mounting screws, but to remove the backing, you need to remove the dials, which I can't seem to do without potentially breaking the dial or the shaft. there are cutouts at the back of the casing to access the back of the dial shafts, so I am not sure if this is required to remove the dial. I have read some posts from G35 driver about people removing the dial backing, sanding off the orange tint and using different coloured LEDs to change the dial colour, but none of these seem to give any description of how to remove the dials.

When you have eliminated the slack in the cable I would expect. I haven't had to adjust mine though

I have heard of this issue on the J31 Maximas, but not on the V35. Parking brake is a totally separate mechanism to the rear disc brakes. You only want to adjust the park brake cable to take up the slack when it is released to prevent the noise, you don't want the park brake to be held on slightly when the lever is released

there is a factory or dealer 'alarm' option which is in addition to the standard NATS immobiliser. Not sure if it can be fitted to a 300GT if it doesn't already have NATS.

Ahh.. well a simple $10 cut key will probably be fine then!

I don't have a 300GT, but I would be surprised if they don't have the same NATS system as other V35s. see if it starts the car. If the engine just cranks, but doesn't start, then you need a chipped key.

with the revised (stiffer) rear springs, I can feel that it is rougher on uneven roads. Overall the car feels a little better in the corners. But I certainly wouldn't say it feels 'less harsh' than with the stock V35 springs. - but I also didn't expect it to 'become' a 350Z. Not sure of the specs of the stock 350Z shocks.. Overall I am happy with the setup now, as I said, it is slightly rougher than the stock springs, but worth the upgrade. I am also surprised that I don't have more issues with scraping on driveways or speed bumps. I do have to watch out for the gutter with angle parking or most car park 'bump stops'

I am running the stock V35 sports shocks without issue. But if you have access to the 350Z shocks and they are in good shape, the certainly fit them. They are probably a bit shorter than the V35 shocks. But if the 350Z spring rate is the same as the old V35 spring rate, than the V35 shocks should be ok. I have had my 350Z spring in for a while now and haven't had any tyre wear issues. The rear was able to be dialled into spec without needing a camber kit. The front is running about 1.3-1.4 deg neg camber which can't be dialled out without replacing the upper control arms with something that is adjustable. Superpro do make offset upper control arm bushes, but apparently these can only give you +-0.5deg. Some people said I would go through a set of front tyres in 10,000km without correcting the front camber, others said it will be fine with such a small negative camber.. it seems the latter opinion is correct.

They are the same car, so yes, they will fit.

If you are happy to wait, there are plenty of online stores which can supply genuine parts at decent prices. If you want parts in 10 minutes on a Saturday afternoon.. buy a Falcon or a Commodore. There isn't enough demand for local parts suppliers to stock much for these engines.