sonicii

my big issue is you can learn to drive and do your license test in a 20 year old 50kw 2dr hatch, then buy a 3ton 4WD and tow a caravan on the highway.. That scares me more than a p-plate driver in a 199kw car.

I guess that is why they call it a limit! like saying 'so stupid seeing as your BAC was only .06 over the limit'?? 206kw or 506kw.. they are over 200kw and therefore aren't p plate legal in NSW. Buy something you can drive now.. and in 3 years time, you might pick up a V36 for similar $$

Which state? it is not considered a restricted vehicle in Qld, because it comes in under the Qld 210KW figure. I think NSW has a 200KW limit, which will make it P plate restricted.

Just take it to another mechanic or brake shop and ask them to check your brakes.. $1300 seems way over the top for front rotors and new pads all round. $300 max for a pair of front rotors. (unless you got drilled/slotted rotors) $100-150 for pads for each end. parts total $600 max Maybe 1 hour labour ($100-150). extras (rags, cleanup, etc) - $50 Beer money for the boys - $500. EDIT - if they did a fluid flush, that would be about another $100 max..

Isn't there a release button near the shifter?? I don't have an auto V35, but every other auto car I have driven with a park lock had a manual release button.

That would depend on how you drive it.. if you let it rev out in each gear before chaning, then it will, if you change gears at about the same RPM as it does when in D, then no.

Mine comes on with about 15L left or when the gauge reads about half way between E and 1/4. Sometimes I have felt like I have pushed it and drive for 100km with the light on. still only took 74L..

This is weird. I bought my 350z springs on here, and was lucky to get in first as about 3 others were also after them!

12km/L (8.3L/100km) is fairly close to 9L/100km anyway

There isn't really anything to 'tune' on these cars, unless you spend $$$ on an uprev reflash, or something similar. And you don't want to be doing something like this until the fault causing the poor fuel economy is repaired. Perhaps they just mean a full service? oil, filters, etc. - even so, it is unlikely to impact the economy by that much. Did it slowly get worse, or just became bad all of a sudden?

Given a 'tank' isn't a unit of measurement, I suggest calculating L/100km to give a better idea of economy. But such a significant change suggests something is wrong. Fuel leak, clogged exhaust, faulty O2 sensors.. or a host of other possible problems. If you aren't too 'car savvy', probably best to get it checked by your mechanic.

I am fairly sure those items are all you will need to get your camber correct with a 1.5in drop. Although I am a bit suspicious of those front arms which claim up to +3deg positive camber. The best have seen is +1deg before the arms are too long and hit the guards, then shims are added to the hub to obtain more than 1deg of positive camber. I don't think you will have any issues pulling the rear toe into spec with just the rear camber arms (but maybe someone with a 1.5in drop can confirm?) I have approx. 1in drop on my sedan (350z springs), and was able to pull the rear alignment into spec with the stock arms.

No idea sorry, I don't have Navi on my car.

That's the one!

If it is a bose HU in a non-bose system, the HU can be modified to turn it into a 'non-bose' HU, but it isn't easy. They are essentially the same internals with some minor changes. I have a bose HU in a non-bose system, and yes the volume is down compared to a correct non-bose HU, but it isn't that bad and I rarely need to run it over 20. It also shouldn't be distorting. The biggest issue is the non-bose HU had a larger fanned heat sink for the audio amp IC. The Bose HU doesn't.

I would like to see some too for my own curiosity. The best I have seen is some on ebay in the high teens. Assuming we are talking coupes here??

I can vouch for 350z springs on a sedan too. I have the 05 revised springs which have a higher rear spring rate, but they don't feel any rougher than the stock springs. I also had the 'sports' stock suspension (red struts). As you can see from the above pics, the wheels fill the guards much better on the lower springs. I don't have much issue with driveways or car park speed bumps, but I need to be careful of gutters or parking bump stops

Have you bought a double din facia with the AC control board to match?

Seriously? sub $10k? I would expect this from a 250GT or 300GT sedan, but that is extremely cheap for a coupe.

front of the S1 and S2 coupe may be the same. sedan front bumper is quite different. S3 will have projector headlights. like this.

You will need to go with a Series1 then, they dropped the brembos from the S2/3 and used larger stock brakes.

Thanks. Oil level is fine. I think the noise was a bit different to heat shield. Also couldn't really hear it from outside the car ( driving next to a concrete barrier). And it was a fairly repetitive/regular noise that changed with engine rpm. I took it for a bit of a drive again today and couldn't get it to happen again. Still a bit perplexed with it. Will try to Capture a video if it occurs again.

The biggest difference with the 6sp manual is the upgraded gearbox (CD009). The earlier units had weak synchros and 3rd and 5th seemed to be the first to go. Some have also suggested the CD009 is stronger. I guess they upgraded the door lock actuators and window motors, as they don't seem to be a problem on the Series2/3. I think most other things are cosmetic, like the centre console and door trims. The front bumper is also different. Tail lights are different on the sedan, not sure about the coupe?? Option of keyless entry/ignition (smartkey) Series 3 (06-07) also got projector headlights. I am sure someone else can think of a few other things!

sorry.. accidental dupliate post..

I think the earlier models had some issues with door lock actuators and window motors/mechanisms. All had issues with the CD jamming eventually, which can cost $$ to repair.. Big thing to check pre-purchase is the Odo reading vs the condition of the car. Look for signs the car has done a lot more work than the odo suggests.. but you are probably aware of that since you own an import already. other than that, just the normal items that would be checked when buying a used car. I have a 6sp manual which is my daily in light city conditions all the time, and I obtain around 11.0L/100km in winter or about 11.5L./100km in summer (heavy AC use). Most mechanical parts are the same as the 350Z, so they aren't too hard to source. I'm in North Qld, and my insurance is around $750 per year, inlcuding glass cover, with NRMA. But I am 38, with a clean accident, insurance and police/traffic history.