sonicii

Or look for a sedan, they are usually a few $k cheaper than coupes. unless you really want a coupe..

Uprev is a popular tuning package http://uprev.com/secure/ About $700 Then take it to a reputable tuner. I can't make any suggestions for a tuner in Sydney though.

Thanks for the input, I was going to go with the Nismo roller spigot bearing, but will just go with the standard bronze unit now. Will probably replace the stock pivot ball too. The other driving factor for a SMF is cost. A new LuK DMF is around $600-$800 alone. yet I can get the JWT SMF, clutch and pressure plate for around $750. My first thought was just to have the stock DMF resurfaced, but opinions on that range from 'not recommended' to 'not possible', so I guess that is out.

Are you certain of this? all the research I have done suggests Nissan only decided to use a DMF for NHV and not for driveline reliability, and many people are using a Single Mass Fly for many years without any driveline issues. I found this earlier when researching the options 'two types of gear noise that commonly occur when using a lightened flywheel on the 350Z or G35: 1) idle mode rattle (also called neutral rollover noise), which occurs when idling in neutral with the clutch engaged, and 2) burst rattle (or start-up rattle), which is heard when accelerating heavily at very low rpm. Although annoying to some drivers, the additional gear noise should pose no harm to the transmission.' Either way, it seems to universally accepted that a SMF will be noisier, and since this is my daily, I don't think the increase in noise will offset the benefit it will give for me, so I am leaning toward a new DMF at this stage. Anyone had any experience with LuK flywheels? they seem to be an OE supplier to many manufacturers.

Thanks Sean. I have researched a bit, several people on G35 driver seem to like the JWT package for best driveability and closest to stock for noise/chatter issues. But all agree that any SMF will be noiser than the stock DMF. My main hugdle is 'how noisy is it going to be for my regular commute to work and will it irritate me enough to regret the change'? I am hoping to get an opinion from someone may have changed from a DMF to a SMF and drives in similar situations to me.

I think my clutch is on its way out and I am considering my options for replacement. I know most people would suggest to ditch the DMF and go with a single mass flywheel, but hear me out... This car is my daily, I spend a bit of time in traffic and during this time I am shifting up at about 2,000rpm, which means most of the time the engine is sitting below 2,000rpm. From what I have read, changing to a SMF will create more gearbox chatter and noise below 2,000rpm. At the moment, i can accelerate from around 1,100rpm without a hint of complaint or harshness from the engine (although I don't normally do this). I don't want to have to keep the engine above 2,000rpm to keep the chatter under control and give a comfortable driving experience in traffic each day, so at this stage i am thinking of going with a new LUK DMF and Exedy clutch. But since I have never had the chance to drive, or even be a passenger in a V35 with a SMF, I am just chasing everyone's opinion given my situation. Thanks in advance.

It might be different depending on you circumstances and location. NRMA was the cheapest for me at $750 the first year and then $850 for my last renewal. 2005 manual sedan.

Mine was squeaking in the same area (near the seat belt clip) right before the metal lifter bracket snapped. Managed to dismantle the seat, remove the bracket and had it welded up with a some extra metal plates for strength. Now that it is all back together again, I have no more squeaks.

I thought they were all 80L? I have put 74L in my sedan once. Although the light does come on early. If I fill up as soon as the light comes on, I can only put about 60-63L in.

Facia won't fit, if you can see them side by side, they look very different. not sure about the speedo, I think they may physically fit, but from memory, the connectors are different.

The CD001 Manual box on the Series 1 skylines (03-04) did have issues with weak synchros. If you can get hold of a series 2 or 3 V35, they should have the CD009 box which resolves this issue, although I heard the coupe only got the CD009 with the series3 ('06), not with the series 2 like the sedan did. haven't been able to confirm that though. If you buy a Series 1, just factor in a potential gearbox replacement cost, I think Sean had a new CD009, plus clutch and flywheel, installed for around $3k. Other than that, check the usual items you would on any 2nd hand car, but pay extra attention to the KM showing and confirm the condition of the car lines up with that, eg, if it shows 40,000km, but the carpets are warn, the seats are warn and the brake rotors are lipped, you can be confident it has done far more KM. The series 1 did have some issues with door lock and window winders I believe. Also the factory stereo seems to eventually fail and eat your CDs. repairs can be expensive, and a Double DIN facia is required before fitting an aftermarket head unit (around $350+ for the facia).

I think the pre 05 350Z springs have the same spring rate as the coupe and the sedan with sports suspension, as far as I know, only the non-sport sedan received softer springs. I found most of my info here. http://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-suspension/92682-another-g-sedan-350z-suspension-pix-10.html it gives you a reference for the coloured dots on the factory springs against spring rate and which vehicle they are for.

Yes. There are some different rear spring rates from the 350Z depending on the spec and year, but they will all fit. I have uprated 350Z springs in my sedan (fronts are same rating as stock, rears a firmer) and the ride is fine. I am also using the V35 shocks, which I think are 'sports' shocks in the manual sedan (painted red), assuming it is the same as the G35 information. If you have the non-sport suspension currently (softer springs), then it is probably worth updating the shocks to something to match the stiffer 350Z springs.

i guess that would cover it! All ABS equiped cars do it, but when the ABS unit is mounted on the firewall, the sound tends to penetrate the cabin easier.

I think Seano did get qutie a good price for his, but just because it has less than 100,000km on it, doesn't mean it is wound back. and just because it has more than 100,000km showing, doesn't mean it isn't.. I have no doubt there are some V35s out there showing a genuine 50-60,000km on the odo, especially if it was imported recently as most Japaneese do very few km.

This isn't an 'issue', it is just the ABS doing a self test, it will sound louder if you are actually braking when it does the test.

And isn't NA as the OP wanted..

I recall seeing a writeup of a company that mangaged to squeeze a VK56 into a 350Z, so that is do-able if you have enough $$.. But now we are getting silly!

Which a V35 is not.

never had a problem with this on mine, but it is a 6sp. However, I don't do a lot of highway driving.

the right side has further to 'fold' than the left. mine has this feature too, I think it comes with the dealer fitted alarm.

if these are for the 05+ 350Z, then they should fit the S2 and S3 (05-07) V35 non-brembo (with twin piston front callipers).

Yes, the Blazt-II cable, although Blazt has gone out of business now, you can still purchase the same OBDII interface cable through www.nissandatascan.com. (same chineese supplier that Blazt was purchasing them from)

I have been using the obdII cable and software from nissandatascan, it works fine for my V35 and my wife's J31 maxima. I don't care what the interface looks like. It's there to do a job, not look pretty.

the CD009 came in with the Series 2 (all of 2005), at least it did in the Sedan.