sonicii

the RainX kit came with a good size bottle of sealant. easily enough to do at least 2 (probably 3) sets of headlights.

I have tried one of the kits (RainX kit). And if I had to them again, I would just be buying several fine grades of sandpaper and looking for the sealant on it's own. I found the polish that came with the kit was next to useless. After using the sanding pads and perservering with the supplied polish, I ended up using my rotary buffer with a foam pad and a fine cut paint cleaner which did an awesome job of cleaning up the headlights after sanding. Made them look brand new. I then just applied the sealant the came with the kit. PlastX with a rotary buffer would probably work well too. That was about 6 months ago, I live in North Queensland and my car is parked in the sun all day, and it still looks great!

I'm surprised the well known issues with oiled filters and MAF sensors, are not very 'well known'???

This is one point were I am not sure how prestige motorsport worked out the final cost. eg. Did they use all 'real world' figures to determine the $ landed and complied figure on their website and then just mention the base exchange rate figure at the time for comparison, or did they do a calculation using the base exchange rate, meaning you could never actually get the car for their quoted figure (minus ORC)..?

I used Energy Suspension bushes from USA in mine, no noises or any other issues so far (over a year ago). And they were MUCH cheaper than SP bushes.

I have used one, no issues with it.. I think any power differences with a K&N would be very minimal, if any at all. Most people buy K&N because they can be cleaned and reused.

here is an example. http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/stock/show_car.php?id=1275 $23,300 plus ORC (tyres, rego, stamp duty, insurance). Not an SP, but still in 4.5/A condition with 40,000km. That figure was at an exchange rate of about 90 yen - $1. it's now closer to 86 yen. But even so, you should be able to come out on the good side of $30k Although I agree, an SP is probably going to set you back about another 4-5K

The Infiniti G37 'is' a V36 Skyline, just with everything setup for the Australian market, ie. Australian Sat Nav, all manuals and functions in English, and a full Australian warranty.. for that you pay the premium! The V36 model started in 2007. I believe the V37 is due for release next year.. However, before Infiniti started here, if you imported a V36 under 12 months old with low KM, you would be looking at around $50k+ If you are happy with a 2007ish V36 370GT coupe with 50,000+km, you can probably import one for under $30k plus ORC (rego, stamp duty, insurance)

They all have traction control and ABS. but VDC was an option on the 250GT and 300GT.

The NATS system is usually independant of the central locking. NATS uses a chip in the key head and a reader in the ignition barrel. So for some reason it isn't reading the chip in the key head, or the chip isn't registered in NATS. Is it the only key you have? If you have another key, try that one.

As mentioned, you don't 'tune' a car these days as part of a regular service, like you did in the old days of carburetors, points and weight type advance. These days they just check the ecu for any fault codes during a regular service.

Along with some more detail.. Sedan or Coupe.. Auto or Manual...

button under the steering wheel is to turn on/off the auto 'tilt down' feature of the side mirrors when selecting reverse. ETC is Electronic Toll Card reader, which is for Japan's toll roads, useless in Aust. No idea what the message is though. Not sure what the audio cable in the boot is for.. If your lucky, the struts may be a standard size, which means you might be able to get replacements from supercheap/autobarn/etc. Cant' say for sure though, I haven't looked for them before. Can't help with the fuel door bumpers, they are probably a standard shape item, so maybe see if there is something aftermarket, or for another model Nissan vehicle. Not sure on the lock button, probably doesn't lock the drivers door. Haven't tested it on my V35, but that is how my old J30 Maxima worked.. You could have a faulty remote if it isn't locking the doors. I think the Century NS60LS is the correct battery - or an equivalent in other brand.

^^ this.. I think a lot of poor breaking in processes resulting in uneven pad deposits often get incorrectly diagnosed as 'warped rotor'.

I think it depends on the state too. In Qld, it is just a power limit (210kw), but if you want to apply for an exemption, then they use the power to weight figure to determine if the car is eligible for exemption. Fortunatly for Qld P platers, the 350GT comes in under the 210kw limit, because it doesn't pass the power to weight figure..

Indeed! The weird part is the rotor shield was also the smaller size. I am guessing the hub may have been damaged a some point and a mechanic has just removed the whole hub, rotor shield and rotor from a donar S1, and bolted it on, but kept the original callipers. So I had to replace the shield and rotor to get everything back to normal. What also concerned me is if you look up almost any catalogue for the V35, it lists the smaller rotors for the entire model run (01-06). You need to look up the 05+ 350Z to get the correct rotors for the S2 and S3.

Just in case anyone cares. This is what you end up with if you fit a S1 rear rotor on a S2 V35. (non-brembo).

my big issue is you can learn to drive and do your license test in a 20 year old 50kw 2dr hatch, then buy a 3ton 4WD and tow a caravan on the highway.. That scares me more than a p-plate driver in a 199kw car.

I guess that is why they call it a limit! like saying 'so stupid seeing as your BAC was only .06 over the limit'?? 206kw or 506kw.. they are over 200kw and therefore aren't p plate legal in NSW. Buy something you can drive now.. and in 3 years time, you might pick up a V36 for similar $$

Which state? it is not considered a restricted vehicle in Qld, because it comes in under the Qld 210KW figure. I think NSW has a 200KW limit, which will make it P plate restricted.

Just take it to another mechanic or brake shop and ask them to check your brakes.. $1300 seems way over the top for front rotors and new pads all round. $300 max for a pair of front rotors. (unless you got drilled/slotted rotors) $100-150 for pads for each end. parts total $600 max Maybe 1 hour labour ($100-150). extras (rags, cleanup, etc) - $50 Beer money for the boys - $500. EDIT - if they did a fluid flush, that would be about another $100 max..

Isn't there a release button near the shifter?? I don't have an auto V35, but every other auto car I have driven with a park lock had a manual release button.

That would depend on how you drive it.. if you let it rev out in each gear before chaning, then it will, if you change gears at about the same RPM as it does when in D, then no.

Mine comes on with about 15L left or when the gauge reads about half way between E and 1/4. Sometimes I have felt like I have pushed it and drive for 100km with the light on. still only took 74L..

This is weird. I bought my 350z springs on here, and was lucky to get in first as about 3 others were also after them!