sonicii

Sure, but if it is a gearbox input bearing, there is a lot of work involved to access that bearing, and therefore a lot of labour costs for a relativly cheap bearing.. so you have to ask yourself, do you perform a full rebuild while it is apart, so you don't end up with another bearing or syncros failing a few months down the track and having to pay all that labour $$ again. Then of course, when you look at the cost of a full rebuild, you need to consider the price of a new gearbox instead.. Unless of course you are a mechanic and can do all the work yourself..

Depends, the early 'V36' Infiniti came as a 3.5 or 3.7. The 3.5 version was still a G35. But if it is a G37. You will be safe.

Umm. No. 2x2.5in diameter pipes do not have the flow of one 5in diameter pipe. Remember pi x R squared. So you will need 4x 2.5in pipes to equal 1 x 5in pipe.

I think that is probably the S1 Brembos.. there was some class action in USA because of rapid brake wear on brembo equiped G35s.

brakes are a good thing to check too.. if it shows 10,000km on the odo, but has 'lipped' brake rotors.. you will know something is wrong..

Umm. I think you are replying to Haxorz's post made 2 years ago.. manc01 just jumped in to ask how easy it is to adjust the odo.. Not sure exactly, but I believe most tuners would have access to the tools required to adjust the odo to whatever they want. Like with all imports, you should check other items for wear, this will help identify a false Odo reading..

Ok, thanks. I was under the impression the only difference between the V35 and 350z suspension was the spring height, I wasn't aware the mounting points are different too.

Thanks. My thoughts were since all the suspension geometry is now in the position it would be on a stock 350z, then perhaps the standard 350z settings would be appropriate. Several people have said they had no issues aligning with 350z springs, but I don't know which alignment specs they were using. After all, it is only a 25mm drop, which should be in range of the stock alignment adjustment.

gearbox oil is easy to change.. although even easier if you have a hoist... remove the filler plug on the side, remove the drain plug on the bottom and let it drain.. refit the drain plug, fill via the side filler hole until the oil reaches the filler hole.. refit filler plug.. If it needs a new gearbox input bearing.. that is a whole lot more work..

I finally fitted my 350z springs on the weekend, and now I need to get an alignment done. Last time I had an alignment with new tyres, I gave the shop a copy of the G35 sedan alignment specs. However, i just noticed the 350z alignment specs are different to the G35 Sedan. for example, the 350z runs an extra 0.3deg of negative camber front and 1deg rear, just over 1/2 deg extra caster on the front, and more than 1mm extra toe on the rear. Now that I have 350z springs, should I be running the stock 350z alignment specs or the G35 specs? This is my daily drive, so I don't want to be chewing through tyres too quickly.. Thanks.

I would be very surprised if any Magistrate would let you off a speeding fine because your speedo was in-accurate

according to the pics the OP posted, I am guessing we are talking about side decals..

I thought GT stripes were these... which look ridiclous even on the cars they are made for.. As for your idea.. wouldn't want them on my car, but I wouldn't say I 'hate' them either..

Mine usually sits just under 1/2 on the gauge, it is probably smack on 1/2 when the fans kick in.

^^ Lol.. and end up with a defect notice too...

Nothing digital about the bose HU signal.. it is just balanced.. so you just need a balanced to unbalanced converter or find an amp that can accept a balanced input.

^^ true, if the factory dual Mass Flywheel has been replaced by a standard flywheel, it will make the gearbox very noisy at idle or low speed. I can hear some gear noise in mine with the clutch out at idle, but it really isn't bad, and no worse than any other RWD manual I have driven (FWD don't seem to be as noticable, probably because the transmission isn't underneath you..)

I would say gearbox input bearing.. slight gear noise is normal, if it is loud, then it is probably a bearing. Clutch thrust bearing would be noisy with the clutch in.

Only tyre pressure and weight on the wheel impact contact patch area.. tyre width, diameter or profile have no impact on contact patch size.

Good question.. under want conditions did you get 790km from 1 tank? if it was highway KM, then this is about normal.. if it was city driving then it is very impressive.

I have found mine a bit tail happy in the wet.. in the dry it is fine as long as you don't go silly with the loud pedal.. tightening up the rear suspension with sway bars will only make it worse if you don't also do the front by at least as much. I am guessing the stillen sway bars may be adjustable? If so, maybe try making the front 'medium' and the rear 'soft', and see how it goes.

supercheap should stock the ryco filters at least, not sure about the other brands.

I have only done 1 highway trip in mine. Townsville - Yeppoon and return. 1 tank each way, about 740km. Low fuel light had just come on when I arrived in Yeppoon. After filling in Yeppoon, i still had 1/4 of a tank left when arriving in Townsville. From memory, I averaged about 7.8L/100km overall.

Ryco specify the Z445 for this engine, but I have heard of a few people using a Z547 which is about 20mm taller than the 445. Not sure if there is really any benefit, or just some people like to use a physically larger filter.

I imagine you will need some sort of adaptor to fit the halogen lamps into the existing holder. (Some dodgy compliance workshops glue them on!!) Then cut the 12V cables that feed the ballasts and fit an appropriate halogen lamp connector. If you are Planning on re-connecting the HIDs then just splice into the 12V cables rather than cutting. It will make swapping back easier.