sonicii

Agreed. I am not trying to point the finger at anyone or insult anyone. But sometimes it can be hard to separate the placebo effect from actual benefits on issues like this. For example, I have had people swear that a strut tower brace has reduced body roll, even though it is impossible for a strut tower brace to do such a thing.. I even have a picture of a newspaper artice with someone claiming a transmission cooler has improved engine power by about 10%.. Personally I can't technically understand how a grounding kit can possibly do anything on a car with good factory connections and ground points, but at the same time, someone may see real benefits from a kit, quite possibly due to an existing, but unknown, fault with their wiring. At the end of the day, people are going to add these kits anyway and many are going to claim benefits. so it isn't really worth the battle..

I tend to agree. I see grounding kits as an opportunity for a company to make some money off people who don't want to clean their factory ground points. I put a kit on my J30 Maxima many years ago, it did absolutely nothing. As for the V35/36, there has been differing opinions, some say it made no noticeable difference, others say it only sharpened the auto shifts. Either way, I have an 6MT and my technical background tells me not to bother with a grounding kit. You really don't need an intimate knowledge of every car to make a technical determination on a product like this.

Not sure about the V coupe, but the 350Z springs are lower than the standard sedan springs, and slightly stiffer. There was one model of Z that had very stiff springs. Not sure which model, but I am sure someone will jump in and fill you in.

^^ only S1s came with Brembos, S2 6MT had standard brakes.

The mechanical side should be straight forward (meaning, like any other auto-manual swap), you just need all the parts. You might run into issues with the auto ECU, some of them need to be able to talk to the TCU, so you may need to leave that in place. I have also heard of idle issues with these sorts of swaps. Idealy you should swap in a Manual ECU too, but this might need a harness change.. but if a can of worms. Safest option (and possibly cheaper) is to sell your car and buy a 6MT version.

Personally I would unplug the sensor first, that way you can be sure the ECU ignores the sensor, and you don't run the risk of the risk of the ECU acting on incorrect signals from the faulty sensor. And as Scott said, drive it gently until you get the sensor replaced.

I think they are mostly LEDs

Red.. it looks nice without shouting 'look at me'.. After all, do you want your brake calipers to be the first thing everyone notices? Especially on a black car..

I thought the point of the thread was the rarest factory/genuine part? Otherwise it is kind of pointless.. someone could custom make something for their V and call it 'the rarest part'

I have seen a couple of sets of 19in Rays on ebay recently, not sure how much they eventually went for, but at the time, bidding was still under $500.

^^ rare or otherwise.. I want one of these!!

That's a bit 'grandpa-ish'?? You can get front parking sensors these days.

Yeah, got one of them too.. But I don't think they take a credit card. They take toll card. At least that is what I could make out from the user manual (in Japanese)

I have a 6mt sedan, they aren't common, but there was 3 on carsales when I bought mine.

In his defence, I think he was refering to himself when stating 'inexperienced', and was thankful for the advise against a 250GT? To the OP, I would certainly go with the 300GT over the 250GT, or if you are close to getting off your Ps, I would wait and get a 350GT...

Just crimp with the appropriate crimping tool, solder tends to crack with vibration and movement.

Bose systems have an Amp in the boot, non-Bose do not, this applies to the G35 (US) and the V35. You will need an adaptor to connect your aftermarket head unit to the Bose system.. Chris Rogers should be able to help you out with that. If you just want radio and iPod, you can get the band expander to make the radio work here, and an iPod I/F for the factory unit. Would be cheaper than the double din facia, harness adaptor and aftermarket head unit. Alternativly you could get a head unit from a G35, radio will work here and it gives you MP3/WMA CD playback ability. Doesn't help with your iPod though..

I think you will have issues with the rears if you run the factory alignment/camber settings.

That is weird. This is what mine looks like.

Yes, Teflon is Dupont's trade mark name for PTFE, which some, not many, oil additive companys put in their additives. A quick google search will give you plenty of information on why teflon isn't good in a car engine.. mainly the fact it is a solid, even though it is ground up very fine, it is still quite able to clump and clog oil filters at best, but small oil pathways at worst. Even Dupont refused to sell Teflon to Quaker State (Slick 50) to use in their oil additives as they knew it was bad and didn't want their name associated with it.. however, a court case initiated by Quaker State ended up forcing DuPont to sell PTFE to them. Just about anyone who knows their oils well, will tell you to never use additives in engine oil.

I have always avoided their products after they thought it was a good idea to put teflon in engine oil. Their normal oils may very well be good, but I can't trust them.

The suspension could be bad bushes, some suspension shops will do free, or cheap inspections, so it might be worth taking it to one of them to get checked. Otherwise, get your mechanic to check it next time it is in for a service. As for the airbag light, anyone with a scan tool that is compatible with the V35 will be able to read the codes. As for the cost of repair, that is totally dependant on the faulty item that has caused the warning light.

^ yeah.. if they do have an 80L tank, the fuel light comes on with 1/4 of a tank left.. Someone in another thread mentioned there is a write up on cleaning the fuel level sender which may fix this.. I'm not too worried about mine, as long as I don't ever run out of fuel..

There should be some sort of swirl remover in just about every brand of cleaner. Just make sure you follow their instructions when using it, or you could end up creating more swirls. Black is particularly hard to keep clean, every tiny scratch or mark stands out..

i have tried a few different brands and haven't found much difference (short term) with the common quality brands. I have been using Meguiars for a while, mainly because they are fairly readily available and consider them one of the quality brands. I am fairly suspiscious of any 'less known, but insanely expensive' brands that claim you only need to wax every few years, or claim they are of 'magnitue' better than anything else.