red17

Coz a silvia doesnt look like a brick? Dont get me wrong, i love ceffy's... but not for their looks. Unless you mean theyre the same price as an NA Silvia, then I presume the cost of insurance on a turbo ceffy would come into play (alot of youngen's cant afford turbo insurance).

Just a quick question, but are any of the RB motors non interference? Or do they all break stuff when a belt goes?

Best place on an R32 is the drivers side air vent, its round and the perfect size for a boost guage. Of course this means you have to direct all the air from the centre vents onto the driver in summer

I had cat back exhaust, high flow cat, k&n filter, stock boost (10-11psi), everything else standard, dynoed on 2 different days, same result 188rwhp

Knore is right, i had loose nuts on my old Pulsar after some twat at a service shop didnt tighten them up. It caused alot of strange sounding clunks.

I use stuff i buy from Motorbike stores. Usually a Silkolene or Belray. Its all brake fluid, its just bike shops seem to sell more performance fluids than your average Autobarn. Top of the line Silkolene would set you back about $38 for 500ml's and I can say is very good indeed. What I tend to do when bleeding is buy some cheap 8 dollar mobil for flushing out the old, and then put the good Silkolene in. Luckily theyre different colours so it makes it easy to know when the new fluid is in the system.

Oh god, not one of these threads again. This has been covered before many times. Both engines are good, easy to get power out of. Decision depends mostly on what you expect to get out of your skyline. Personally ill stick with the 20 simply because im only hunting about 250rwhp. You on the otherhand might have bigger, bolder plans?

Ahh PAS... what a weekend. Hopefully next october i wont be stuck in the dyno tent for the weekend and can enjoy the show some more Might even stick the 32 in. Red17

I thought you only had to produce 500 examples to get your car homolagated for touring car purposes back then. If so, why make the many thousands more? Or in Holdens case, you dont have to produce a single car to win a production car category. As for Amaru's comments about Supra's being bulletproof, ive seen plenty of them break too

http://autozine.kyul.net/technical_school/...ngine/vvt_1.htm Not sure if it helps but theres not much info available on NEO-VVL... its mentioned on the second page of that article.

I had the same problem, I chopped the 2 pin plug off and stripped back the cable a bit. It was a tricky job but in the end i managed to get both aerials connected to the one standard aerial plug (R32's have a front and rear windscreen dual diversity FM system). Buy an adaptor if your not prepared to waste half an hour of your life converting the cable. Its just coax wire so its not rocket science, centre core and outer shield, easy.

Its been quite common in recent times in the US for guys to import the SR16VE and 20VE for Sentras. Heres a link explaining NEO-VVL and the range of motors using it. Note, all of them are SR's http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=18317 Heres a pic of Nissans "Super Pulsar" named later as the VZR-N1 and sold as a motorsport edition to race teams (200 horsies from a 1.6!).

NEO-VVL started in the SR, and as far as i know doesnt even exsist in any other block. SR16VE, SR20VE were released into the Almera/Pulsar VZR hatchbacks in japan, to directly compete against the Civic Type R in production series. In fact the VZR N1 Pulsar features a SR16VE producing 200hp at the fly with a 6 speed box. Thats a normally aspirated short stroke SR block producing serious numbers! As far as i am aware the only turbo engine that has been produced with the FULL NEO-VVL system into it is the SR20VET in the X-Trail GT (206kw). Im not sure about the NEO RB26's but nissans designation for Variable Valve Timing and Lift is "V". If its still got the "D" in it, then its called NEO for some other reason (possibly a new timing only system? compared to the older RB25DET type?) Its my understanding that all the motors that are designated "D" will only have variable valve TIMING on them only eg: SR20's RB25's. All the NEO-VVL SR motors have it written on the rocker cover too, not just NEO but NEO-VVL.

It broke whilst happily doing 3k rpm cruising along?

Definately sounds AFM to me. My 02 sensor is dead as a doornail on my RB20, yet I have no problems with the car at all. Dunno if 33's are different in this manner.

15.7? Good son of rajab, sure its turbocharged? Mine ran 14.6 in pretty much stock trim (cat back exhaust only).

RB20LagWagon, Thats effectively what my cooler (currently being stored in my wardrobe) does. My drivers (inlet) side tank has been modified so that I can run a pipe behind the core back to the stock piping on the passenger side. This requires minimal bends, next to no custom work because its basically a straight bit of pipe with one bend on the end. GTST. you dont use that end of the core as the EXIT point, you use it as the ENTRY point so that the air has the shortest distance and least amount of time to be heated up on its way into the engine. If you had the end tank modified properly the effect can be minimised. ALOT of japanese kits do this for the RB20/25 motors, so it cant be that bad. Red17

Joel, Try telling that to my bucket of bolts gearbox. Pretty much stock standard car just over 100,000k's and it sounds horrendous, like its on its last legs. From experience and listening to many many issues RB20 owners have had with them, its my belief the box isnt so tough. Red17

I dont see what the problem is with keeping it as stock looking as possible and running both pipes from the stock location on the passenger side. Means minimal custom work required.

Dont worry, its dual diversity. That means theres also an antenna on the back window too. Just connect up 1 instead of both.

Eeep! Thats a rip off. Im sure ive heard of them cheaper than that.

The memories? Niz werent you about 12 when the Berlin was in full swing?

Jimih, Thought about an RB25 box? Bit stronger than the Rb20 one. Rebuilding is going to cost you a fair bit, gearboxes are labour intensive. Theres no point in doing it by halves either, because as soon as you fix 2 synchro's something else will break and youve gotta pay labour on taking it out again.

Sydneykid, ok, if i understand correctly you are saying the limit of the factory injectors is around the 150rwkw mark.I know youve said before dynos are different all over the country it seems and its hard to compare figures. But for the sake of the discussion, lets. My car dynoed 190rwhp on a dynapack (hub dyno) in pretty much stock trim, all its got is a full exhaust, turbo to tip. This equates to 143rwkw. So the stock injectors have only got lets say 10-15kw in them? Im sure theres RB20's around which would put this claim to the test. I also recorded 218hp on the same day with higher boost, however fuelling issues were very much present, im not sure if this was down to ECU, Injectors, pump or whatever. If your statements are correct, its highly likley injectors might be responsible. Red17

Err yeah the 15 year rule is attempting to ruin values of R32's already in the country. Unfortunately those that are already over here are pretty tidy examples and can generally command that sort of pricing. If you wish to take a risk on a 15 year rule car then go for it. However the condition ive seen most in, id stay away. Alot of them look very tired and in questionable condition. You could spend alot of cash fixing problems when it gets here. Red17