red17

I think there should be a compression shootout after the dyno shoot out. Lowest wins! Red17

I went through archer st lights on orrong rd at about 12pm Saturday and there was major carnage then too! Magna had decided to turn across traffic there and said good bye to most of its front end. Looked messy. Ambo's n cops everywhere. Not a good weekend for that part of town it seems. Red17

Im not sure about the technical aspects of it, but im pretty sure its been described as very similar to VTEC in most aspects. Never heard it being compared to toyota's system. Red17

Ah yes, i thought i recognised the car when i was out the back last week. That tiny avatar photo stuck in my head Did you hear me coughing and backfiring up Carbon Ct? That was amusing Its the only time i let Ivan drive my car when diagnosing problems. Last time he took it for a spin he rung me up and claimed he'd blown it up. We laugh about it now, but I can assure you, one thing you dont ever ever do is make jokes about blowing someones car up. Paul, i doubt you'll see me on a cruise mate, i stay off the radar on purpose. Less hassle from the boys in blue. Red17

Nothing wrong with big singles, dunno why people claim theyre so bad. Anythings an improvement on the stock one. Good price! Red17

I only just solved a shocking miss and sputtering above 3k rpm that had been getting steadily worse. But it was totally intermittent, the car would drive fine for long periods then just come to a sputtering halt in 30 seconds flat. Determined to find the problem i changed the plugs, no go I took it to my local speed shop and they told me i had the wrong plugs in and wrong gap. Stick new ones in... no go For some reason my suspicion was that it wasnt ignition. Because when i stick it in a high gear at low speed (give it some high ignition load) it would just pull out. Then splutter again at a bout 3200rpm, then pull smooth to redline. Other times it would break down so much it wouldnt pull past 2000rpm. The solution? Air flow meter. Pull it out and give it a good spraying of contact cleaner. Car now drives better than ever. Red17

Variable valve timing on SR20's and RB25's is much different to Variable valve timing AND LIFT found in "V" desingated motors. Variable LIFT can only be done with a change of cam lobe (like vtec). This is whatthe "V" stands for, its called NEO-VVL. And is dare i say it, bloody good. See if you can find some info on the Nissan Pulsar VZR-N1 from a couple of years ago, it featured a 198bhp SR16VE... thats right, 200 neddies from 1.6 litres with no turbo. Made just to kick the Civic Type R's butt in the jap touring car classes. For many a year it was said VVL systems and turbo's were a no go together, but i believe the SR20VET is the first production turbo car with the system. Could be wrong. Good on Nissan for bringing back the Silvia, their car range was looking a bit of a travesty when youve got a 2 litre turbo off roader and no middle weight sports car to speak of. Red17

Finally got the pics of my skyline developed after many weeks sitting in the camera. I really need to upgrade to a digital Anyway, just thought id share a couple of pics from Nissan HQ in Pilbara St Kewdale. Pointless post i know, but might be a good place to take some shots of your own car, building has cool japanese styling n stuff Red17

Who needs a bleed valve for 11-12psi... mines at that already and all its got is a full exhaust turbo to tip. Stock boost effectively. Red17

I think the general rule is that strainless steel takes longer to heat up therefore takes longer to dissipate heat.... aluminium heats up quickly but cools quickly too. The aluminium vs stainless debate is a long running one Red17

Well the V8 most people are considering here is hardly foreign hardware, its the VH41DE and VH45DE both all alloy japanese motors which produce an instant 300 or so horsies. These engines can be sourced VERY cheaply because theres not a great demand for them in Australia having only been sold in a limited number of Q45 barges. So theyd make a cheap replacement motor for anyone whos blown up their RB. Tried getting an RB26 for under 2 grand? The VH series motor is a long long long way ahead of the old pushrod crapboxes of old so its not that much of a leap to adopt one in a japanese sports car (and it doesnt burn oil and rattle like the new holden V8's either). It would provide fantastic tractable power with plenty of torque. Besides, its something different, a bit unique. Nothing wrong with that. This is probably why its generated such interest. Your final line intrigues me, are the V6 turbo boys against the v8 boys? Who knows, go ask some V6 turbo boys. We all drive straight sixes. Red17

Depends on what your after from the motor as well. RB20DET vs RB25DET, and you really dont wanna get into that debate. Just be aware that the R32 GTS-4 weighs a fair bit more than the normal GTSt R32. If you have any problems with 4WS its easy enough to install a lock kit for a few hundred dollars and immediately be rid of any issues. For risk of offending many GTS-4 owners on here, id either go with an R32 GTSt or R33 GTSt... both great fun cars. Just depends on what styling and powerplant you prefer. Red17

Tek screws The japs seem keen on screwing stuff to the dash...not sure why, for me, screwing through the dash is a last resort. Tried cleaning the surface of the dash with alcohol before you stick anything to it? Alot of the time its stuff like armorall etc. that causes it not to stick. Red17

I can find out a ball park figure tomorrow

I think "australisia's" is meant to be australasia. Which includes NZ, Indo, PNG etc. Still. 8.55 is f'in fast. Red17

Ive got an iPod that plugs into an AiNet Din to RCA lead... switch source on the head unit to Aux and away we go. iPod sits snugly in my coin tray. Of course an iPod is a fairly significant investment. But i luurrve the gadgets Also ill give you guys the inside word on a new mp3 player that altronics are releasing in November. Its basically a single din sized unit that runs off 12V with LCD screen, full track controls on the front panel (I think it will even feature a USB2.0 port so you can upload from a laptop while its still in the car). With the use of a notebook hard disk it can easily be used in cars. We've been using it at work for weeks now and its really good! Red17

Im just good friends with a few people involved in Speedworks. Sumo is good at selling stuff, which is why hes still there, doesnt stop us from calling him a dick tho Aaaaannnyway...

I know its hard to say how much better theyd be, especially considering the vested interest that ARE have in the explanation of their cores and end tanks on their site. However ARE have spent alot of time and money researching their end tanks and own the mouldings for their unique castings. And alot of what they say does make sense. Its good reading, honest I don't wanna diss the Hybrids, theyre still bloody good value. In fact ill take back my comment above However most people might not be aware that ARE's previously expensive pricing compared to the Hybrids has recently been revised. Might be another option for people to consider. Red17

EVL R33... APA does not equal Speedworks you know. Get your tuner of choice and go down to the dyno and stick it on. APA are always letting other tuners utilise the dyno under supervision down at JRT (just so they dont stuff anything up). Red17

Id say 6. I did 2 valves in 6 from detonation, all other cylinders were AOK. Red17

Im getting my cooler in a few weeks from ARE. Theyre cheaper than the hybrids now and have much better end tanks. Im getting a 520 x 300 x 75 for $878. My brother already has one of ARE's coolers and theyre bloody good. www.are.com.au Red17

Yeah well, all of us think Sumo is a dick.... even the people who gave him the job think hes a dick. They can tune just about anything except for F-Con i think due to the software being in japanese. I think in terms of what they reccomend customers buy... in general its Motec that gets the nod (or more recently a remap via BiKiRoM). But if youve already got the ecu then they'll quite happily help out Red17

Actually i spliced mine into the wire that runs to the audible buzzer just near the fuse box. This buzzer sounds when you leave the lights on. Red17

There should be a wire going to the potentiometer on the dimmer that will read +12V as soon as you flick the lights on. I think this is where i spliced my boost guage into. Multimeter is your friend, even a cheap one for 10 bucks will do enough to let you know whats going on. Red17

Go with Speedworks