red17

Saying the SR cant handle the mods like an RB20 is a fairly broad statement which really doesnt hold any weight. The SR is just as good as the RB20 if not better, when theres Perth workshops turning out 700hp SR20 monsters then it makes you realise how good they are for a 2 litre, 4 cylinder. And as meggala shows, putting one in a skyline results in enough engine bay room to mount an intercooler flat in front of the motor, which alot of jap guys have done in R32's. The SR is ALOT lighter than the RB20 (alloy vs iron), that picture alone should demonstrate that. Red17

Just beat the crap out of your front number plate until its missing a couple of numbers, claim youve just got the car back from a front end accident and you havent got round to getting new plates yet. Worked for 3 years with me. Only got warned twice. Except my plate *was* ****ed from an accident Red17

Hey netrati, Are you part of the american military over in japan? I hear theres a bunch of Marines on bases over there who are right into drifting etc. Red17

Alliance Rim Repairs in Northbridge should be able to fix this pretty cheaply. Theyre in the garage behind the mobil station on the corner of Fitzgerald and James St. Red17

Ive always referred to mine as the Japanese Taxi. Red17

http://lfs.racesimcentral.com Has anyone seen this? Ive been playing it for a few days now and its heaps of fun. Great physics engine, has a very gran turismo look about it. Nothing like hitting the skidpan in your ford focus for some handbrake drifting Red17

Adrian, Those rims you have, are they Vertec VR5's? I think i saw you in North Perth a few weeks back. Red17

Yeah tell me about it, Mobil1 10W/30 Tri Synthetic is $18 a litre. I get mates rates, but the price is still well into the teens I knew there was a reason im catching the bus to work now. Red17

No wonder I saw lots of Skylines coming out of Welshpool today. Dyno day was on Red17

Is it lighter? Its made of aluminium it's ALOT lighter. Only way youd get lighter than ally is if you made it out of carbon. Most people get it for the look though. Im lucky, mine came with the full gtr kit from Japan, not sure id make the effort to get it if it hadnt. Red17

Unwritten law How many k's you done in your skyline? Red17

I know Lumpy at C-Red has an ultrasonic cleaner for such jobs. How do i know? I sold it to him. Red17

Mine runs soooo much sweeter with Mobil 1 in the engine. Im also running Mobil 1 synth in the gearbox and diff and I couldnt be happier with the performance of them. Interesting to note that Mobil now make a Synthetic oil and a Tri-Synthetic oil. Now im not sure about the exact differences but im told the 10W/30 and 0W/40 come in Tri-Synthetic, while the 5W/50 is just synthetic. (Their website at the moment says only the 0W/40 is Tri, however ive seen a barcoded Mobil barrel of 10W/30 with Trisynthetic printed on the side, so it must exist) I run the 10W/30 which I buy from a tuning shop, ive never seen it on the shelf. Red17

They look alot like Vertec VR5 Quests made by Manaray Sport http://www.marukanet.co.jp/wheel/vr5quest.html Yes? No? Red17

I hear that place also has a pair of long nose pliers and a 10mm spanner. Red17

Mr R32 M-Spec, Try emailing Lucas from Perth ([email protected]), he has many maps for many cars and can reprogram ROMS to your specification. His SR20 "BikiROM's" have been selling like hotcakes lately, now shipping them to workshops overeast. The RB20 computer is really easily reprogrammed so its probably the cheapest option and still allows alot of scope for increased horsepower. Im not sure about cost, but ill bet its cheaper than Chiptorque. Red17

Checked your timing? This can be a major cause of detonation and may mean you fuel pump is not "rooted" . Simple things first. As for boost pressure, mine hits peak boost at about 11.5 psi around the 4300rpm mark (or it did when i had my stock dump pipe, rpm is probably lower now). Anyway it seems to be a standard sort of boost level for GTSt's running a semi decent cat back exhaust. Boost level can increase just from the increase in airflow the exhaust provides. Its normal for it to start dropping off toward about 9.5psi at peak rpm. The stock turbo is simply running out of puff. Red17

Umm when your car is cold all the oil is in the sump. It takes a few seconds on startup for the oil to get pumped into the top of the valvetrain, so it rattles and ticks. My old SR20DE used to sound awful for about 5 seconds, dont notice it as much on my Skyline. Red17

Great car! Most of the points have been covered, but theres a couple id like to add: Sunroof's - Make sure its a factory one and make sure theres no rust bubbling up around it, or you'll be forever repainting the roof. Gearboxes - the RB20 has a rep for having a weakish gearbox. Unfortunately id have to agree, mine clunks, whines, whirrs and squeals its way through all 5 gears... but its still going and it never pops out of gear so i guess it cant be THAT bad! Climate control - These also have a rep for having dodgy LCD screens, everything works when you press the buttons but the screen just shows gibberish. I know a guy who went through 5 climate control units in his GTR trying to find one with a working screen. Ive had no problems with mine apart from those which have been my own stupid fault (eg: running too much boost and burning 2 valves). Red17

Just because Mobil 1 goes black doesnt mean its not working. Viscosity is extremely important and probably more important than the brand of oil you choose. Engines are designed around having a particular thickness of oil running in their oil galleries, lifters etc. A thicker oil may not guarantee more protection because it cant move as quickly or get into the small areas in the same manner a thinner oil would. Personally I use Mobil 1 Trisynthetic 10W/30 and i find it to be fantastic, even at $18 a litre. However the Motul do make a very good product. Red17

Closest i can think of them being is the standard S13/RPS13 (Silvia/180SX) brakes. Large single piston eg: not very good. If your looking for an upgrade, go the 4 piston R32 GTSt calipers. Red17

Sneeza, 180SX's and Silvia's have it too you know However it was an option which means theres also a helluva lot of 180's and Silvias out there without Hicas. Steve as usual has generalised to the point of being incorrect. It shouldnt be removed from ALL cars asap, because for starters not all cars have it. There is nothing inherently wrong with 4WS systems its just some people dont like the feel of it, each to their own. Ive never driven my car without it so ive got no idea what its "meant" to feel like. Unless you are having problems with your HICAS and youve got no issues with the cars handling, theres no reason at all to disable it. Besides HICAS lock kits are yellow sticker material. R32's in particular seem to be having all the HICAS issues of late, but it might be something to do with age. Perhaps the 33's turn will be soon Red17

If i ever get stickered for my BOV ill just stick my standard one back on again, take it down the pits, get the yellow off, put turboXs bov back on (because its quieter anyway) and keep driving the streets. It may vent to atmosphere, but at least it doesnt go "whoosh" with every miniscule movement of the acellerator pedal.... its got mitsubishi symbol on the side of the stock bov, maybe its that Red17

Boxhead, it clearly says on the specifications page "turbocharged with intercooler". I wasnt ever claiming that it was an "aussie" car just that its nice to see manufacturers now realising that people over here WANT turbo cars. I dont care where theyre made As long as we get more of em! hehehe Red17

Rob you gotta stop leaving stock parts behind at workshops mate. I never leave anything behind so i can return the car to stock condition in the event of a problem/yellow sticker/sell the car. Suppose someone kicked the shit out of your intercooler in a car park? Where would you be without your stocker? Red17