red17

Mate of mine is doing this in a Silvia. Motor is in the engine bay now, requires no modification to firewall or strut towers to fit. Needs a fairly elaborate crossmember and gearbox mount, but its do'able. He has gotten approvals from transport to do it, however he has to have it all signed off by an engineer and have it brake tested before it will be registered. He spent a VERY long time researching it and discovered that just about ALL nissan engine bays have very similar dimensions, plus crossmembers are pretty much all the same (apart from the 4wd vehicles GTR etc.) The difference in weight between the VH41DE and the CA18DET is about 50kg. The advantages of all alloy Red17

Nah i wanna get a FMIC first, might be a while yet. Sorry for hijacking Red17

Ahhh IT. I was more on about qualified operators, fitters, engineer's etc. Usually it depends greatly on which tenders they pick up. IT always seems to get screwed, poor lads Red17

*pats rob77's old turbo* Thanks again robski! Red17

Sorry for providing misguided advice then. You get told all sorts of things, sifting through the bullshit is the key. Red17

I believe the Auto and Manual ECU's are different. Im pretty sure most Nissan ecu's including the RB20 have some sort of changes according to which transmission they have. My Blitz ECU has "RB20DET MT" stamped on the top of it (MT = Manual Transmission). Red17

Arent many jobs going? My dad's opz manager for ABB Oil and Gas and most days he cant get enough qualified people. Red17

I just download MAME for free and find ROMS on the net, all the nostalgia without the cost. Red17

Paul, yours does have 500 extra cc's to get there remember bbenny: if youve got an SAFC then you should be able to tune that AFR graph to look a bit better, at the moment it looks like its leaning out toward dangerous at about 6krpm. However the RB20 ecu is very easily reprogrammed, and since your already paying for the dyno time, getting a remap by someone cluey shouldnt cost you too much. Personally, if you dont plan on making too many changes to maps (like me:D), id sell the SAFC and let the ecu manage everything (probably cheaper and you get to change timing AND fuel maps). Red17

Mine does the same thing too ever since I got it. However mine did get much better after it had 2 exhaust valves replaced (i think that cylinder was down on comp for a while which wouldnt have helped cold starts). But it still coughs and splutters about in the morning. Im told its due to my Blitz ECU. Im told alot of jap ecu's have cold start features removed and thus run a bit crappy until the engine is warm. Red17

I am told that only the 0W40 and 10W30 tri synthetics are the only 2 TRUE synthetic oils that Mobil make. Someone told me recently their brocky ad campaign was pulled because someone got shirty with them in regards to their so called synthetic 5W50 you buy off the shelf at autobarn, NOT being fully synthetic. But ive also been told bullshit from this person in the past, so I wouldnt put it past him to shovel a little more. Red17

Interesting question youve posed here with only one logical conclusion. The Skyline, of course. Even more so if the rex is in that horrid pale yellow colour. Red17

Anyone know the guy advertising his R33 GTR in this weeks auto trader as "Only one in perth".... Does this guy lead a sheltered life? Even funnier was the fact that the Auto Trader screwed up and cut his phone number off the ad Red17

I thought the initiation into the Rollaboys clan involved crashing your car into the back of another? AE's are overrated Red17

I use Mobil 1 10W/30 Tri-Synthetic. Good stuff, but expect to pay a fortune for it. I get mates rates and its still 15 bucks a litre. Pennzoil 10W/30 isnt too bad, used to run it all the time in my SR20 Pulsar, that thing still didnt burn a drop of it when i sold it with 240,000 on the clock. Red17

Youve just called so many people on here losers. Well done Red17

Jashie can you post these here, that forum forces you to register in order to view posts. Red17

Jashie can you post these here, that forum forces you to register in order to view posts. Red17

Personally i wouldnt use a HKS foamie on a $500 bunky datsun. Everyone talks about "flow" but little do they realise that its stopping next to nothing. I ran one on mine for 3 months when i first had the car (came with it). Pulled it off to clean it and nothing came out of it. So if its stopped nothing in 3 months I figured it was worth throwing in the bin. Bought a K&N instead. At the end of the day no one with a turbo car should really be concerned with buying a filter for performance, but instead buying one with excellent filtration characteristics. I hear Apexi's are very good. Foam filters generally rate at the bottom of most filtration tests ive seen on the net and in magazines. Sure the HKS might give you a whopping 2hp gain from its free flow, but think of all the crap its not stopping. Plus ive heard stories of the foam disintegrating in australian conditions and ending up being sucked into the engine. Red17

It is particularly bad. Worse than the RB25DET. Theres good gains to be had in this area on RB20's, alot of people dont seem to think about it. Theres plenty of exhaust headers (or "bag of snakes" as some of us refer to them) available for the RB20, depends on what you want to pay. Its worth going with a decent brand name simply so you can be sure of a good fit. I just looked through Option magazine and converting the yen price alone, most brands seem to be around the 1000-1500 mark. You could no doubt get one made locally a bit cheaper, but the jap stuff does fit well. Red17

Ive used Autosol Plastic Cleaner which is great for removing oxidisation and build up on black plastics. You need to reapply fairly often however. Red17

I pay $15 a week in fuel, might go through a whole tank in about 3-4 weeks. Its called, catching the bus. I can clean the car on the weekend and still have it spotless come friday. Its great. Of course your depriving yourself the pleasure of a drive each day, but who can open it up in peak hour anyway? May as well catch the bus. My insurance is $15 a week too, and thats to have it sat in a garage for most of the week Red17

The R33 will soon be blacklisted if it isnt already. Much like the Silvia/180SX. How sweet it is to own an R32 Red17

Id go cooler, management, turbo. Turbo is by far the biggest change and if you want to do everything as safe as possible without the risk of detonation and damage a decent intercooler is essential. Not sure about the R34 GTT's limits in that regard but if your turbo is a significant upgrade and you wish to run some decent level of boost, an aftermarket intercooler is a good idea. You be surprised about an intercoolers ability to create extra hp just from decreasing the intake temperatures alone. A more efficent cooler means colder air is going into the motor, and thus more hp. It wouldnt be ALOT, but saying it doesnt provide extra hp isnt strictly true. Red17

Joustin sticks? Tell him hes dreamin!