Bsa

How much I'll just copy it and make my own haha

Not sure at all would be wicked if the internal version was good

It wouldn't open on my phone I wonder if it's the flapper isn't big enough

It's not hard all skyline intakes are very simular when using a pod. I try and follow the strut curve then let it land about 20 mm off the headlight i can't post pics at the moment. I found no restriction by using 80 od or 76 od pipe I tested it on the dyno on my last car r32 rb20 with a td06. The main restriction is the filter but then it only made a 2kw difference with it off with a 76 od pipe. I have acces to all types of skylines my mates don't mind me borrowing them for a few hours. I can even make them to suite stock air box if need be. Also the oil breather hooked up always seems to cause problems with blow by I tested this as well on my 32 a catch can mounted level or above the breather will allow condensation to find the can but oil stays where it should be in the motor but when mounted between breather and intake it caused the can to fill up. I made the catch can set up for DVS jez drift car and it never has issues with filling up 3 full track days and it's perfect. When you start making 800hp + then pipe size may have a impact

What I normally do is buy 90 deg bends then cut them you can get any angle needed

I can't get the link I'm on my iPhone it is the type of mani I'm looking for puts the turbo between cil 1 and 2 also has a external waste port it all seems good made from 304 stainless 2.5mm thick. I was going to make one for my sr but this looks the goods even has a t3 t4 flange

Has anyone tried these they look to be great quality what's everyones thoughts

No not needed but yes can help with many things you never no you may go to a bigger turbo again one day

Hey status did the internal gate hold boost well? Or better just going external

The price of a mild steel mantle bend is around the 12 dollar mark for a stainless one it's around 65 for one bend. I don't see the big huff about stainless exhaust ends up looking like mild steel anyway after dyno time it would be around the 1200 mark because of so much stuffing around

Kinda got out of hand in this post

Alloy dude 3mm

You need to start using bends dude it will actually make things cheaper for you

Stainless a lot easier looks good needs a pickle paste and scotch bright will look a million bucks

Yeah sorry for the confusion iv never felt a sr box before well actually driven one I know my 20 box is still tight no crunching I also have a short shifter for it

I have a sr bell housing that I will change over onto the rb20 box so it will then fit the sr20

Also what clutch should I use if I went the 20 box

Go put a rb25 box on I would need to cut and shut the bell housings bit of a mission

Yeah that's what I would do. I just don't want to put a weaker box on when I have both available I already need a custom shaft so I don't care about that. Also the shifter is in different locations the 20 box seems to line up near perfect. I'm not to worried about gearing as the diff in using (m3 LSD) is already in the 3.8 regon I think so that would decide most of how the car reacts.

Hey everyone iv tried searching google and all that but I keep getting mixed answers. Now I'm putting a sr in my BMW and I have a sr box and a rb20 box either one will work I just want to know what one is better I don't want stupid answers only people that have used both. The sr box is out of a 180 type x and the 20 box is out of my old 32. The sr will be running a td06h-20g so I'm hoping around 260kw which the 20 box handled before. Anyone thats thinking buy a rb25 box I know they are better but a pain to fit up to a sr. Any info would be gold

Rito progress finally iv now picked up a sr bell housing to run on my 20 box iv also got a vct sr20 as well I'll put new bearings in it and I'm happy. I'll bolt it together then install it then while I'm making mounts jez can wire it in I'm hoping it will be running in a month then I just need a few little things. I'm going to run my old td06h-20g turbo on a mani I'll make so 260kw is very possible will be one fast BMW

You can't be serious take all the boost out of it if you get two fans put them side by side and stand in front of them the big fan will flow more air then the smaller one it's same going for compressor wheels if you have a stock comp wheel against a gt30 wheel the gt30 comp wheel is bigger and will flow more. On my 20 the rb25 turbo got me 170 kw at 14 pound then I installed a td06 and made 220 kw on 14 pound the motor didn't decided oh yay new turbo I'll make power now it's the fact the td06 flowed heaps more for the same boost

Check the throttle body where the piping attaches if the silicon is split the car will still drive normally untill boost comes on hard it happened to me and I drove the car for a hour and a half while pulling over thinking what the fc is going on. I was still hitting 12 pound that matches the sound you discribe

Don't fix what ain't broke. Replace it when you need to could hold for years to come never no. Just buy a Garret or a kando, nistune, injectors and dump/ front pipe get it fitted happy days

I like rb20 they are fun and reliable 9 times out of 10 iv had 2 of them and would prob go one again but finding parts can be a massive pain