Springsteen

Hi, I have a front and rear bar for S2. I am in Adelaide. Non DAYZ. 0405 542 125.

Sorry to hear about your wagon Jake. Seems there a few getting ripped off lately. Alarm? Good luck in getting it back.

+1

Ummm, I have an auto s2 with the console out right now, maybe useful for reference??

Stay Jah. Sutijean Wagon.

Ran Super Sparks on a RSV, no dramas. Other folks will say use the Yellow Jackets. I would say everyone has a preference. Think there are some new supersparks for sale on here, just make a search in the for sale section. Same for plugs, you can get a set for cheaper if you want to pull the top off every time you oil change. Best of luck getting the parts and solving that miss.

No less legal than the yellow hi beams, If the new ones have the ballast and bulbs, well done. Sell your old ones to me for cheap??

Splitfires @ $650 and plugs @ $100..... Water pump @ $250 and Belt @ $150.... Seals, Gaskets, Tensioners, Fluids, Filters

You mean you got a HID kit for cheap right? Yeah, go for it. Best lamps ever.

SUS stainless low mount extractors + SUS split dump + SUS decat + 3" catback straight pipe + JUN spiral cannon = Flames !! HKS Solid suction pipe + TRUST airinx pod + 14 psi = Ripping silk a new one.

The switch should be on the rearward side of the foot brake you use for parking. Its a peg type that extends out ward to form the earth for the circuit when you depress this lever. Having rear pads replaced wont help your park brake position as the park brake is the internal hub type (Pretty sure). If you have noticed an improvement in your park brake its possible there has been an adjustment made to your cable under the dash rather than at the rear wheels. Could be the switch has been knocked loose? Try releasing the park brake then get your toe under the pedal and pull it back a bit.....

AFM? Is more likely to cause poor running and stalling. Can of AFM cleaner from local auto parts shop about 20 bucks, take off AFM and squirt clean. The light going off when you switch off and back on is normal. Ttry giving it a big kick in the guts when its missing (in gear up to 5000 rpm or so). Might need 2 or 3 kicks but usually will make it run on 6 again. Shit fuel? Only ever run 98. My favourite is Vortex from the yellow and red company with the scallop for a logo. Coils and plugs? Well it's up to you on how deep your pockets are when you do timing belt, water pump, seals / gaskets, fluids at 100xxx km Looking like an expensive service, add about 750 bucks to your parts budget. Dont tell me, the problem has gone away cos you switched your heater off??

Had one done in an RS a while ago and it blew my mind how it changed the car, better shifting into lock up mode when cruising and better oil flow to the back of the box. I wouldnt bother getting under the car for myself, Id go straight to MV.... as I intend to with the current RS$...lntentional typO

Not convinced the heater is causing your problem, just a likely coincidence. If you can give it a boot on the throttle and it comes good and you have about 100xxx km on the clock then guess what....my first guess is coils. If youre not convinced then put the ecu into diagnostic mode and count the flashes, or pay for a consult to say you have an intermittent ignition problem and be none the wiser.

Yeah, was having a bit of time tuning some new stickers, hitting various cuts. Got some more on the way. Liked the na grille.

Vague idea it might be in the door?? Somehow i remember hearing that. Dont ask which door, until i pull those nasty trims out and fit up my newies.

But seriously, with the Stag for working out what the original bulb type is you just look on the top black bit of the headlamp under the bonnet and the type and wattage is right there. Good luck with your fix Midnight.

Sounds harsh Jeremy, Yeah that fix was easy, now I have a HID kit. (so i guess i have spare ballasts) My next challenge is the projector type high beams. Maybe you should consider customising yours, since theyre already "compliant".

You probably already have done this but have you unscrewed the back cover and popped the bulb out to be certain its a xenon?? I had a "blown" bulb in a Stag, turned out it wasnt the HID but a normal Narva type bulb, this gets changed for compliancing in most cases. All of the wiring for the bulb and the ballast remain in place, they just cut and splice the power wire, add a female spade connector and a little adapter washer thingy. Check if this is the case. My "blown" bulb turned out to be the spade connector had burned out. Total repair cost: a fraction of a cent for a spade connector i had sitting in my toolbox.

coil packs also show a fault code and an engine light on the dash. try looking at your fluids and check your cvs. after this dump and replace atessa fluid, try the 2wd option by pulling the wire and pumping the brake and you might have a better idea of how your problem comes about.. have you had your trans serviced lately??

Ignition or acc?? depends where your ignition is coming from, may have found an ignitiion wire with something active ie fuel pump, try using your power supply from an acc/ ign supply rather than an ign only wire.

have fitted DAYZ front and rear, a recumbent trike, dogs, firewood, fencing materials and recently a front and rear leather seat set plus door trims and some other goodies , not all at once....

+1, are you sure you need the harness?

Spotted FJOH the other day at Clovercrest, coming out of the servo. waves.

aac valve full of crud? a bit more tricky than just squirting out your afm but similar problems reported by other members.