Lazy-Bastard

I have a stock R33 turbo if anyone is in need. Good condition but comes without actuator or elbow

I have one in Brisbane. R33 turbo - good working order - no actuator or elbow - $300 ONO

I am looking at doing a Bosch coil pack conversion and am a bit stumped on the wiring side. I was thinking of taking the easy way out (no idea if it would work or not) and just hacking the factory coils off at each connector and then connecting the wiring for each one to the Bosch coils. Obviously the wiring would be a bit of a mess but once I get it working I can tidy/shorten it all up later. The problem I have is that the Bosch coils I have seen just have a '+' and '-' terminal, whereas the factory coils have '+', '-' and 'E'. So my question is...Is this going to work and what do I do with the 'E' wire for each coil? Please no posts like "If you don't know what to do then you shouldn't be doing it". Where's the fun in that?! I have read the other couple of threads on ths topic and, yes, there is a wiring diagram, but for those of us not so electrically minded (but still wanting to have a go) it would be nice if someone would just say "this wire goes there, etc." I will try to post some pics soon to clarify things. Any help would be much appreciated. *Edit* This is for a Series 1 R33 with external igniter

I have a working one if you're interested.....$280

I reckon just throw a couple of litres of petrol in there and spark er up

Not surprised.....isn't the 044 an external pump and the 040 internal?

Is the front bar type M or type S?

just take a screenshot Zero risk....

from my experiences, however long the workshop says they will need your car, double it and add a few days for good measure and that is when you will see your car again

It shouldn't cost anything to install....do it yourself or get Andrew to do it. Only problem might be getting it to work with your alarm....you need to wire in a relay or something......ask Strutto...I saw a post of his somewhere detailing how to do it.

I will be there if I can get the day off work

you shouldn't need the wiring harness with the Greddy one. Mine plugged straight into a connector under the dash, then you just need to run one wire for the handbrake sensor and one for the speed output

sms sent

Isn't it a bit suss that the ambient temp and Inlet temps are exactly the same? I would have thought that even with a good CAI and partition that the Inlet temps would still be a fair bit higher than ambient....

watching with interest

S15 SR20DET injectors are a direct fit and flow 480cc but you need 1 1/2 sets

just rooting through the sock drawer and found this old post all still for sale ...except the tyres

turbo sold....pending payment

Vision problems?....stevie wonder could read this gauge!!! Busted a turbo in your 33 or want a mild upgrade for your 32?......have I got a deal for you All reasonable offers considered bump

I always get great amusement from your posts Stephen22 (I still remember the mountain run/drag racing one with fondness).....please continue...... in fact it was sooooo hilarious I got a screen capture of it

Quick calculations would suggest that the piping configuration has an extra 45° bend over your standard 'up and across the radiator fan' config. I am only counting the bends on the outlet piping here, and assuming most people use the factory route for the inlet (to the cooler) piping. Cooler to TB piping only: The config in that pic has 1 x 180°, 4 x 90° and 1 x 45° bends = Total of 585° Routing between engine and radiator fan has 6 x 90° bends = Total of 540° Routing back to the factory locations has 1 x 180°, 2 x 90° and 4 x 45° bends = Total of 540° (well mine does anyway) So the piping in that pic does have more bends than most layouts but whether or not the lenght of piping used is more or less is difficult to guess. I suspect when you add it all up there isn't much difference (length wise) between the 3 setups. I have no idea what the laws of physics say about pushing air around a 180° bend as opposed to a 90° one but surely the sum of all the bends must have some bearing on velocity of the air and lag/throttle response etc.

either to your inlet piping or boost control solenoid if you have an ebc

the boost gauge is mechanical (ie. a vacuum line running into the car)

I suspect all the additional hose might cause boost spikes, not sure though. I have a Hybrid 2 stage as well. Being an EBC they use a solenoid, so totally different setup from a bleed vavle.

c'mon....surely some ricer wants a whopping great boost guage