Lazy-Bastard

:lol: just keep saying that over and over.....

added a few things bump

LMFAO I'm feeling a little light headed.......can anyone smell petrol?

I can try to explain the wiring...when I have more time (ie: when my 1 1/2 yr old leaves home ) I will try to put up a proper diagram. It's pretty simple really. This is all for a series 1 R33 GTST with external igniter, I have no idea about compatibility with other models. Where the coil loom plugs into the igniter, there is another connector (with 2 wires - one thick white one, can't remember the colour of the other one) that joins into the loom. The thick white wire is the power (+12v) for the coils, and this just daisy chains from one coil to the next. The other wire coming from the 2 wire plug loops into the cylinder 1 signal wire (I think it has something to do with monitoring timing). There is a ground wire that connects to the back of the head and then to each coild pack. This again is a daisy chain affair, so just loops between each coil. The only separate wires that run to each coil are the signal wires (which tell the coil when to fire) coming off the igniter. There are 6 wires coming out of the igniter, so obviously one to each coil. I can't remember the order at the moment, but I will have a look sometime soon and post the order. If you disect your factory igniter to coil loom you will be able to isolate which wire is for which coil. The earth wire becomes redundant if you are mounting the coils on a metal bracket that connects to the chassis of the car as this will earth all the coils anyway. I will post diagrams and more details when I have time.

.6 gap fixed my miss

I have an ignition loom but it is missing the plug to connect to the igniter. Any help?

rexnet

I PM'd you about your heatshield.........

when people are saying 400 k's to a tank, is that 400k's till your fuel light comes on? or 400k's all up? My fuel light comes on at ~400k's, but there is still 10L left once that happens, so theoretically I could get another 80 or so k's

I feel your pain. I just did a bosch coil pack conversion and am getting really bad misses at relatively low boost ~10psi Originally I had my plugs gapped at .7 (they were about 10,000k's old) and at 10psi it would miss on what sounded like all cylinders. I got some new plugs (same heat range 6) and left them at the 1.1 gap and the problem is exactly the same. I am going to try gapping the plugs down to .6 tomorrow and see if that helps. Keep us posted on your progress Cerbera

I wonder waht would happen if the muffler fell off Peter Beaty's car and had to be replaced........

Hi Mate, No, the bracket is only mounted to the firewall. At first I didn't have the bracket earthed with the E wire (wqs running fine though) but after the miss started I did connect it to the bracket (just at 1 point though as I assumed this would earth the entire bracket) even though it *should* be earthed by the screws to the firewall. I was a bit hurried when I did the wiring so just used the factory loom and crimped the connectors onto the end. Maybe the crimped connections aren't up to the task so I have made up a new loom with all the connections soldered and an earth lead for each coil. I will install it tomorrow and see if that helps. When you say you are getting small ignition cuts, what does it feel like? Is it like a miss or a complete engine cut type feeling? Yes, please post pics of your install.

I think that plug just below and to the left (of the plug you are talking about) connects to the same sensor

Worst case scenario would be that you could strip the thread which would mean removing the head and then using a helicoil I guess

I think the TPS plug you are talking about is only used for autos. I have seen other manual 33's with nothing connected.

But it was running 14psi fine with the factory coils...... I thought it might have been the plugs (bcpr6es gapped at .7) so I changed them for new ones (gapped at 1.1) and it is exactly the same, so there goes that theory. How about the safc2....will this help help with the ignition cut issue?

OK, I finally bit the bullet and did it. The wiring was actually the easy part. The hardest part was fabricating the mounting bracket and finding somewhere to mount it. I currently have a few teething problems though. The car idles a drives fine (possibly smoother than before) and also boosts fine UNTIL I hit ANYTHING over 11psi and then it starts to misss REALLY badly, like on all cylinders. I had the boost set to 14psi initially. Boost would build nice and quick (turbotech BC) and then as soon as it went over 11psi it would start to stutter and then at 14psi it hits what feels like boost cut (like hitting a brick wall) and then start to miss really badly after that. I wound the boost down to 12psi and same story, boosts fine and pulls hard up to 10psi but as soon as you hit 11 or anything over it misses on all cylinders. I am beginning to suspect that it is the ECU going R&R but I don't really want to spend ~$1000 on a PFC to find out. I have an SAFC2 at the moment. Does anyone know if I should be able to tune *around* the ECU's R&R with this? Here are a few pics. I still need to tidy up the wiring and mounting bracket as it's not too aesthetically pleasing atm.

if "It's your job" shouldn't you be registered as a trader on this site and make a contribution to this forum???????

I had a similar (jerky) type problem with the AFM on my R33. After much stuffing around I pulled it apart and found that 2 of the connections inside the AFM had broken. I soldered all four of them again just for good measure, put it all back together and sealed it with silicone and haven't had a problem since.

you old bastard!

oops, forgot to check this thread.....mine is with a plug too pls

I have a series 2 front bar, with reo and lights in Brisbane. OK condition, but needs paint. $400 for everything or willing to separate. PM or call 0414 249 292

same

intertested! Please PM me when you need funds transferred.

I can vouch for this....quite impressive it is too