Lazy-Bastard

I would start by replacing all the factory vacuum hoses. I think there is a restrictor in one of them from what I have read, so maybe that's what is causing your lack of boost? I blocked the return line from the turbo duct with a screw, so that should be fine, and you can unplug and remove the factory solenoid altogether.

just buy a cheap cooler ~$200 and have the piping made up to return to the factory locations. All up cost should be less than $600 and probably a better fit than the generic piping kits with the added bonus that you don't have to cut up bits of your car.

Steering wheel puller Either side of the centre nut that holds the wheel on there will be 2 threaded holes (one either side). The puller kits come a main piece shaped like so =0=, There will be a large bolt that goes through the centre of the puller and butts up to the bolt that holds the steering wheel on. Also in the kit will be a range of bolts to fit different thread sizes for the 2 threaded holes on the sides that I mentioned before. Just screw the two side bolts in so there is a decent amount of thread holding them in and then screw the large centre bolt in until the wheel pops off.....5 minute job.

is the front bar for a series 1 or series 2? and if painted, what colour? pics to [email protected] pls

saw lbr33 at indro yesterday

Haven't done the conversion yet. Hopefully some time in January. I will report back with the results

fitting the cooler is the easy part... If you want it to actually connect to your turbo and inlet manifold then it gets a bit trickier

Damn straight....call the forum police.....It was my pic

try either removing any step-downs in the piping or removing the catch can altogether and see if things return to normal. A friend with a 33 had similar issues after installing a catch can and it turned out to be the step-down that were causing the problem.

are there any step-downs in the catch can piping? or is it the same inside diameter all the way through?

apparently Fulcrum in Marooka rebuild Teins, not sure if they do other brands though....

DO IT!!! When I first installed mine I wound it in what I thought was a little bit (from the setting it was delivered with) and I hit 21psi first run and backed off in a hurry. Wound it back a bit and hit 15psi dead on the nose and solid as a rock. It's easy to drive off boost with light throttle applications, but when given full throttle I am getting 15psi by 3400rpm. Subsequently I have my old EBC up for sale

Added Turbosmart BOV All reasonable offers considered. Bump

if you're after something less chemical, try eucalyptus oil

O M G !

yep, still got it.

I think he is talking about adjustable cam gears Take it to a shop unless you are familiar with the process of removing and replacing your timing belt.

:werd:

I disagree....you shouldn't need a wheel alignment at all Wheel balance - yes

Congratulation Cyrus P.S. You are a slow learner

I have a Turbosmart type 2 BOV with R33 adaptor in perfect working order. Want to swap for a factory R33 BOV in good working order + $50 PM or call 0414249292 Same as this one:

:werd: happy birthday Chris

BUT!!!! after reading this thread ( http://forums.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/showthread.php?t=44280 ) I think RB30-POWER might be right about the RB20 igniter. I have been in contact with GunMetalR33 who has done the Bosch 6 coil conversion to see which igniter he used. I can't see any reason why the RB25 igniter wouldn't work with a 6 coil setup. Perhaps you would have to earth each of the coils with the 'E' wire off the factory loom. As I have said before I am dangerous when it comes to auto electrics so this is all very much guesstimation.