PT

do you have the diff still?? is it the type with ABS sensor attached??

interested, pls post up offsets when you find out...hopefully the 8" is closer to +35 or +32

do you have LSD? is it ABS type?

i didn't think any nissan OEM diffs were mechanical, if you are refering to the helical/torsen diff (as on S15/R34 GTR) they are not mechanical . It doesn't lock both wheels together like a mechanical, it tries to distribute the torque between both wheels for max traction, that is if one wheel slips it will transfer torque to the other wheel (ie torque sensing), it can do this up to a ratio of 5-6 times what the lesser wheel has. But lift one wheel off the ground (zero traction) and the helical diff will open wheel

would you send to SA (seat only)...bus freight or something??

S15/R34 diffs are helical, they have NO clutch plates, they alter the torque applied through each side (ie torsen diff...torque sensing), they don't "lock" in the same sense as a mechanical diff.

they are the small weights (15g) used to balance the wheel. offset is usually on a sticker or marked on the inner rim itself ie 17*7JJ +32 (so +32 would be the offset)

what offset are they??? +35 +38 +40 +42 etc

does the defi guage come with oil pressure sensor and all wiring to lead to the control unit? pic is too dark an d can't see

if you still wanted to swap out your Nismo 2 way I will trade my diff from my S15 (with half shafts) plus cash on top

SOLD As per topic, I have a full set of brand new D-DRUG coilovers for sale to suit S13 Silvia and 180SX, they have were purchased brand new and have NEVER been fitted. These coilovers are used by James V (D1 Garage, previously using Tanabe Sustec Pro coilovers and has since switched to these D-Drugs) and I have also heard the Riverside D1 guys use them. Made to handle drift, springs are 10kg/mm front and 8kg/mm rear and valved to match with 40 levels of damping adjustment to be had, including external damping reservoir on all 4 coilovers. These are a solid looking unit. Fronts have adjustable camber plates. Adjustable ride height front and rear, these are made to be low (can be adjusted to park your car on the ground and fit your tyre wall under the guard). They also have full length dustboots covering entire shafts. SOLD PM or post here for response I am selling these as I have now purchased an S15 and as such I cannot use them on my new car.

do you have front/rear calipers and rotors, rear spindle/hubs, and hand brake cable? how much you chasing?

So this is not made by NISMO at all then.

do you have the radiator clutch/fan assembly for sale too?

any pics of condition, ie are any of the flange holes cracked/is the mesh intact/what is the serial numbers on it/overall condition? There have been a few clapped out ones going around lately.

email sent (hotmail account)

will you separate the rear sway bar from the 32 gtr

do you have rear sway bar (not strut bar)

Why not contact GCG and ask them what your best option would be, I'm sure they could help you out.

^^^cos all HKS turbos are made by garret and have this on their housings. Not visible in pic but there'd be a small HKS GT2835 label on their too

From what the rx7 manual for PFC said and quickly playing on the SR: enter the SETTINGS menu (below monitor) then enter the boost setting option should display 4 rows for 4 presets, you can only adjust 2 features 1. Boost level you desire, set this to what boost you want to run then depending if you over/under shoot your target boost... 2. Adjust duty cycle. If target boost not met then increase. If you "over" boosted then decrease. Small changes here will make a big real world difference. I believe the duty cycle will affect how quickly the BC tries to reach max/desired boost.

Why not check with Nissan, they should be able to tell you what model they are from, always thought orange sticker=Z32 and red sticker=r32/r33...don't quote me

Do these have a built in thermostat included aswell? If so where is it located? in the core/in the filter adaptor? And do you know what temp. it opens up at? Thanks

I have an SR20 so hopefully is similar. The 2 wires from the apexi solenoid need to be connected to the wiring for your FACTORY solenoid (as PFC uses the stock wiring loom to adjust it, the factory solenoid is then redundant). The apexi pressure sensor then plugs directly into the PFC unit (next to the HC plug). There are 2 "versions" of PFC, each uses different boost kit (the wiring from the sensor is different), older version has 3 pins/wires, newer version 5 pins/wires. Hope that helps.

Is the cat convertor 3"? How much for just the cat by itself, I can give you a "race cat" aka straight through pipe so you can keep it as a package.