PT

I am about to upgrade front/rear brakes on my S15 to those off an R33 gts-t, donor vehicle in question has had front end collision and swung round a bit, only damage after the firewall is a small dent in the right rear rim, all the arms look straight on this side. Now problem is with the donor vehicle jacked up and handbrake fully applied there is ~15 degrees of free play in the hub/rim on the right hand side (left side has no free play whatsoever), the right wheel will rotate a bit before being "locked" this doesn't seem right to me. Anyone have similar issues in the past as i don't think this is normal?? I know it is a drum brake for the handbrake but tried pumping brake pedal then reapplying handbrake and made no difference, I have not pulled the disc off or inspected the hub yet, there is no brake fluid leak or anything like that

32 gtr stock rims are 8" +30, a 235 sits very even/square on an 8" rim

you'd make more by stripping it down for parts than selling as whole, but this can be time consuming to do, if you repair it will obviously need a cut/shut on atleast the right rail/skirt and rad support, though the left also looks damaged, if the chassis behind the firewall is also damaged I wouldn't even bother with fixing on another note if you sell parts I'd be interested in front/rear brakes

just confirming offsets, is that +38 for both the 8" and 9" (and did they clear your calipers at front without spacers)

price drop now $175neg, need to sell

yeah 3rd to 4th seems weakest synchro in the RB25 (well it appears that way from the last 2 RB25 boxes I've had) yes you should take it easy, shift slower so your actually rev matching or even though it can be a pain clutch IN shift to neutral clutch OUT then clutch IN again and select 4th this was all I could do on my old box as the synchro was totally rooted, don't keep grinding or forcing it in you'll just wear your box out quicker. If the other gears are good and no bad bearing noises I'd just put up with it, the synchro's themselves aren't expensive it's the labour to pull the box off car/pull box apart etc that costs the most

Boost guage now sold, PM's replied, as per pic they are x4 New Rays TE37 wheelcaps fresh from Japan to my house, now negotiable on price within reason I also have a full set of stickers, they are not Genuine though, they are copies, total of x8 all together, x4 "RAYS Engineering" and x4 "VOLK Racing" They are black and white version, no pics at present I will try add some if any interest. Chasing $75 delivered

had a poly g'box mount noticeably louder and more vibration in cabin compared to the nismo engine and box mounts I later changed to g'box mount is easy to change with jack and stands, the engine mounts were a pain and that was with a hoist

Boost guage sold pending payment.

As per topic I have a set of brand new wheelcaps to suit Volk TE37's, full set of x4, they are bronze in colour (though you could respray to suit other colours). $200 negotiable delivered via express post $175neg (pick up available in SA) Blitz mechanical boost guage, comes with wiring loom, white faced, lights up orange/red colour, reads up to 1.5Bar, 52mm size $80neg (including delivery for this price) SOLD

3-6 month wait!?!? sounds like the tyre shop don't want to sell them did they/have you tried elsewhere? ring the Toyo distributor for Perth and ask who their dealers are 1800 897 373 Yellow Pages Toyo Link

Looking at the last/latest report: if you want less wear up front, at the sacrifice of some turn in, you should aim for 0mm of toe, toe out up front on a daily will increase tyre wear as does too much negative camber (not that -1deg is too extreme). Your rear alignment seems fine and not too extreme. It's bizarre there is that much variance when getting them rechecked Just had my alignment done today, rear tyres have been getting raped on the inside due to having 12mm toe in (total) and -3deg camber. I have gone what I'd consider a conservative set up as I do 3-400km a week and won't really get to the track more than once a month: Front toe 0mm camber -1deg castor 7deg Rear toe in 2mm camber -0.5deg will have to wait and see how tyres wear (Toyo T1R's less than 20km on them so haven't even begun pushing things yet)

not too off topic but will uneven tread wear affect your wheel alignment, as in should you have fresh tyres/even wear on the car when you get a wheel alignment or will it not matter???

In the market for new tyres now, was keen on another set of Rev Specs or possibly Toyo Proxes 4, the guy at tyre power was talking up the Khumo KU31's over the Proxes 4. More confused now than before. edit: I have ended up going with the Toyo T1R's, I'm using 17" rim 235/45 $250 and 255/40 $290, pays to get quotes as local joint wanted $315 and $350 respectively. (decided against the Adrenalin RE001 as they are asymmetrical and can't be rotated) years ago Michellin Pilot Sports Dry: 9/10 Wet: 8/10 Value: 8/10 Goodyear Rev Specs (got these brand new and dirt cheap so value is biased) Dry: 8/10 Wet: 9/10 Value: 10/10

I have the TR2CD (up spec from the TS2BD and released before the current model STR2CD) and mine is a daily driver, not heavy on the leg by any means and easier if anything to drive with compared to a 5 puk clutch

P1's still for sale? just paint scratches or full on gutter rash?

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i have an asus A8JS notebook running vista and finding the screen very choppy on most games even with all settings low/off, especially on Halo 2. Thinking of upgrading memory from 1G to 2G (max allowed) but not sure to go Corsair/generic/kingston etc and prices seem to vary alot from stores to online stores if it matters it has intel 2 (2.0GHz) and GeForce G7700 GPU

Jap lightweight wheels, dished or not, such as the Model 6 will always fetch over 1K if in good condition, they are 17" x8 & 9 yet they still weight less than standard r33/s14 or s15 rims, granted if they were heavy or very poor condition you wouldn't get much

they are called Model 6 (by AVS obviously), seen those exact sizes (not sure what offsets though) sell anywhere from 1200-1600 2nd hand depending on condition

any idea on the offsets for front and rear?? do you know how much they weigh? (either with or without tyre on)

$20 for silver faced greddy guage by itself (the one that doesn't work), i'll pickup

willing to separate? how much for rear cmaber bush alone?

greddy boost guage: -is it white face or silver face??? -how come it don't work??? -do you have the sensor, greddy controller (white/grey colour box thing) and the 3 wiring looms too???? thanks

Hey SK any pricing and availability of Whiteline adjustable poly bushes for correcting rear camber on an S15 (1 kit I assume is L & R)